14burrito

IMO 5100s would be a nice upgrade. If you have a little extra coin 6112s would work really well also. These plus icon will handle on road better. If you offroad, Fox King or ADS are the way to go. Go ahead and use the shocks for lift.

No worries, maybe this will also help others

what I found was the following: latest tstat 85585333 O-rings 23277649 tstat to gearbox housing seal 85628205 Info on supercession: New part number for 70C transmission cooler bypass valve | Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum part number on the O-rings differs between pipe material. 21-NA-199 1..3

Long shot, but DM sent @boettcher40

Just bought the updated tstat, o-rings and gasket from Shea Chevy for about 60% less than local dealer was quoting me. FWIW to anyone shopping parts to update to the lower tstat housing.

194 vs the 20X crack temp isn't huge IMO without the airflow (full open I'm not sure what the camero one runs with the 5.3 tahoe ones about 232 iirc). You can alter fan speed with a diablo intune i3

FWIW, the shared with Ford 10 speed does have an ability to bypass the trans thermostat - you just have to remove the valve body to do so. Few videos out there on you tube. Unsure what the GM 10 speed cooler looks like, but IIRC the Ford one is a rectangular finned fluid to fluid with convection exchanger mounted forward on the gearbox.

Coil, wire, spark plug, compression check, leak down, injector swap

Trans temps? New thermostat or no? Have you ever exchanged fluid? Pretty sure if you take it in and complain, reference 21-NA-199 and they should get you set up with the new thermostat.

Uhh, if that the case....I don't get it. Crack temps: ATF thermostat is 180 Coolant is 207 The ATF full open is less than the crack temp of the coolant thermostat... So they warm the ATF to cool at the condensor?

Regarding spacers... Back to your comment "not extending the length, just moving the arm further down"...How can you say adding X spacer doesnt alter the coilovers length?? Again, talking spacers and stock coilovers... Static ride height - the only way to increase leverage is to increase the coilover assemblies length as can be seen in the attached drawing. Adding a 1" spacer on the top or under increases the assembly length which is why you gain lift. You have not alter the coilover preload therefor no change to the coilovers spring rate. Same concept as if you look a stock truck. Jack up the front an inch or two with a floor jack - you have reduced load on the coilover assembly making it longer than it was before. Let's say the spring rates 600lbs per inch, jacking up the front removes weight off the assembly so it is no longer compressed by X amount of inches due to a lack of weight to compress.

Toyota has been eccentric cams on their LCA's since like the 90s.

When using spacers - How do you move something further down without extending the length of something fixed at the other end?

With the over under you are asking about originally, those spacers ADD to the overall length of the stock coilover assembly as they are an auxiliary addition to. So if your doing a 3" lift, the spacer will be somewhere between 1-1.5" thick. So if the factory coilover assembly is 22", the new length will be 23-23.5" OAL. The 5100s preload the coil. They will be the same or close to the factory assembly length.

They have different settings built into the shock body and you place the circlip at the height you want, preloads the coil to provide lift. Same concept as a coilover assembly with a threaded body, but the adjustment requires removing the top hat.

Not what I was talking about. Aftermarket UCAs are to help with alignment. What I'm talking about is poor shock geometry with a spacer. The spacer will now overextend the suspension as well and the longer coil assembly has now turned into the bumpstop.

You have a V6? I thought the V8 routed ATF via condensor.

IMO both result in poor suspension geometry. I recommend Bilstein 5100s.

Feels like a lean miss? I believe its AFR/idle set speed too low. Get a tuner, up it 50rpm over command and idle quality will be much much better.

Pull the plug and stick long tool in the cylinder and wait for it to start going down?

Gotta scan for codes man, otherwise its dart throwing in the dark without a dart board

Flashing MIL with NO codes?

That is an option, as the flap motor will still have limits, therefore shouldn't register a code. The ATF cooler lines enter the condensor on the passenger side, and if memory serves correctly the ATF circuit in the condensor is the top 1/4 of it. So keep that in mind when removing vanes, youd want to remove the ones towards the top. That is if I recall the circuit correctly. It's worth a try for sure. There in lies something to consider with an aux cooler and the K2 w/shutters...location and ATF line routing IF one was to add an aux cooler inline. The Mishimoto trans cooler seems to be mounted where the shutter vane assembly would otherwise be. For it to also be effective it would need to be mounted in front of that assembly.

Yes, the grill shutters suck for trying to being down thermal deltas. I have been fighting this issue myself. If you get a tuner (HP or Diablo) you can simply disconnect and remove the shutters. Once you do this you will receive a fault code in the engine along with a check engine light. With HP or Diablo, ask the tuner to simply make that P code "not reportable" and boom, done. Once I am better, the grill shutter delete is my next objective. I have some data somewhere but I think it was 35mph where they shut (obviously dependent on parameters) and then they opened again as I was coming to a stop. Even with my 174F katech coolant thermostat, I was still seeing 190s + for ECT. Once the shutters opened my temps dropped. Ditto on the trans temps. Much better with a pill flip but summer heat in AZ and towing can sometimes get up there a little

The pic you posted, more discussion from the original poster can be found here https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/transfer-case-vent-hose.642009/