James Howell

As long as it is an LT style and not an LS. You can use an LS style but you will have to have a custom torque converter because bell housing clearance is different and so is input shaft. But I just did something like this except is took a 98 model LT style 4l60e out of a 4.3 chevy blazer or s-10 (guy had it for sale and already removed for 225 bucks, damn good deal) my original tranny was in a 97 gmc sierra was a one piece with no removable bell housing. The tranny I put in was a two piece with removable bell housing but it was a non LS style. I did have to bend the tranny cooler lines a little to get them to go into the tranny, and the reluctor ring for the speed sensor on the tailshaft was different and just read the mph wrong on the dash. Main thing in your case is to be sure to get one that is LT style and one that is 4wd. Otherwise you will need to completely disassemble both trannies and swap out tailshaft and housings to get it to be direct fit. I think I also had to slide the cross member back a little but the funny thing is thatthere were already bolt holes for it from the factory. But as long as both of the trannies in your scenario are from a 97 and they are both 4wd then it will be a direct fit. Any tranny up to a 99 iirc, as long as it is LT style, will fit, just make sure they are both 4wd or else you will need to swap output shafts and housings

Check crank position sensor or wires to it. I believe the CPS reads the position of the crank and sends a signal to the pcm which in turn sends a signal to the ICM to tell the coil to fire. The camshaft position sensor can do the same thing I think but usually it will still fire. The CPS is a hall type sensor and when it fails you get a no start condition as with the ICM as well. Look up the diagram for the ICM and see which one is the signal wire (12v) from the pcm and have your girlfriend or a buddy turn it over while you probe that wire with a multi meter. Every time the cps tells the pcm to send the signal to the ICM to fire the coil, you should see something on the multimeter. If you don't see anything then try changing the CPS. Another way is if you have a scan tool that reads cranking rpms, it should read zero if the cps has failed. One other thing I would suggest it to read the codes somehow and post them. The crankshaft position sensor can have an effect on starting if it has completely failed as well. Best read them codes or else start dumping money on parts

Or the coil. The coil could be overheating.

Afaik you have to ave a scan tool that supports it. Otherwise mark everything before you remove it and get it as close as you absolutely can when reinstalling

You need to find a schematic for the circuitry. Otherwise you are shooting in the dark. At first glance I would say to remove fuse box under the hood and check for corrosion underneat. I had a town and country that was draining the battery and I search for weeks looking for th eculprit. Turned out it was corrosion underneath the fuse box under the hood was shorting different things together. Funny thing is that everything worked. But the radio time would reset sometimes

I have taken the fuel injectors (spider assembly) out of my suburban 5.7 vortec. Luckly I have a 12v 1A power supply with test leads that I can engage the fuel injectors with. So I got the upper intake manifold off and removed all the injectors, and I had my girlfriend sitting in the truck turning the key off and on for me. Well I started with the first injector. Had her turn the key on and could hear the pump kick on for a few secs. Then engaged the fuel injector and it has a fine stream coming out. I thought that it should be cone shaped or at least a mist or something. Seems to me that a fine stream of gas like that wouldn't atomize properly and would result in either misfires or fouled plugs etc. I repeated the above procedure for the remaining 7 cylinders and all of them sprayed a very thin fine stream of gas. Am I going crazy or is it suppose to be like that? I thought it was suppose to atomize the gas so it could combust it properly and efficiently. One other thing I thought about is maybe that I do not have good fuel pressure. Sad thing is I do not have a fuel pressure tester gauge thingy so I can't test that right yet. The symptom I was originally getting is a miss through the complete rpm range. There is no codes being throw for it but I can feel that it doesn't have the power it should have. I did a complete tuen up, new distributor cap and rotor and new coil and new plugs and wires. Am getting spark on all cylinders, but it is missing on one cylinder. Almost like a dead cylinder. I also removed the valve covery and there is no extra play in any of the rocker arms so I think all the valves are seating properly, but that does not mean that one exhaust valve isn't burnt out. But mainly I just want to know if the injector (MPFI STYLE) should shoot a steady fine stream or should it be releasing an atomized cone of gas for the intake valve? Will get a fuel pressure gage asap and test that as well. Thanks in advance and if there is anything information you need then please just let me know.