WT35002017

Use a catch can and the plugs will stay clear. The crankcase vent dumps oil on those cylinders if no catch can used.

Finally installed a home made intake and catch cans. The air box size was increased by as much as I could make it higher and the MAF tube size is now 3.85 inches inside clean versus the stock 3.45 inch one with target air vanes inside. The vacuum lines to the catch cans are 3/8 ID air hose which is strong enough to support vacuum type pressure. I tuned it some today and I can definitively say that it offers more horsepower potential than the stock air tube. It is quiet enough for normal throttle but it is very loud when I get on it. But not loud enough for it to overpower the sound of my tires spinning

I use my 6.0 3500HD as a towing ehicle for my business but I love spirited driving. I’m relieved that I was able to get the L96 since no DI. I have tuned it and got my 0-60 down to 8.5 seconds. It is fun to drive even though so heavy! I plan on some engine mods in the near future, and a lockup diff in the back. I’m running 3 extra trans coolers bringing summer highway towing at 70mph down to 180 degrees. The box trailer I tow is about 10 feet high. I think this is the last new truck I’ll ever buy because I love the LS motor!

@No Tyme I did a typo there, I meant that it won’t go into v4 mode if you use L5 or L4, not L6. On my Caddie as long as I use L9 or less it avoids V4 mode. I’ve been programming GM motors using Hp tuners and there is a lot of questions as to the programability of the line pressure on the T43 TCM. It seems that even though it can be programmed, the actual line pressure will not change unless many torque related coefficients are in line to show the need for more line pressure. For any high performance application it is well recommended that a kit such as from Sonax for raising the line pressure be used. I’m personally trying it out the programming way but I will always verify line pressures with a mechanical gauge. I may switch it a built transmission in the future.

I work on my vehicles myself, I redid the programming on my truck transmission so it won’t lock until I get a new torque converter in it, maybe this fall I will have the time. My truck is out of warranty anyhow.

I think I misunderstood the dod part of your post there. It is true, put your truck in L mode or M mode and the engine will not go into V8 mode at all. It is the cheap way to avoid using DOD. I use that function on my Caddie.

There have been so many posts on many different forums and YouTube describing how the torque converters are failing, specifically the clutch liners. If you got over 100k miles on yours you are a lucky one. The programming for these transmissions lets the lockup clutch have a constant slip which causes significant wear and when the lining fails it fills the transmission with particles clogging things and this can wear the pump which can lower the pressure during shifts and finally the trans will not shift right and could be destroyed. I wish this was an isolated incident. Best to drop your trans pan and check for lining debris or worse. I wish you the best of luck, also if you start to have erratic DOD and other electronic things going on a ground connection could be loose. There are common spots that this occurs in, check out YouTube for guidance.

First thing to do is check reported oil pressure on a scanner. Then if still showing low, it could be many things. Consider last time you did oil change, truck mileage, is everything else working fine? If you are going to find trouble yourself you should check out some You Tube videos for guidance.

I’m not an expert. I finally received a stall converter that I ordered about 2 months ago but I won’t have time to replace mine for another couple months. I’m very interested in not having my linings self destruct before I can replace the converter but I wasn’t able to change the lockup programming on the TCM until about 2 months ago with HP Tuners. The stock programming is part of the problem with these trucks. It allows for slip all the time for a smoother ride but it prematurely can and will wear the lockup surface which then pollutes the transmission. If you were driving fine and you suddenly lost forward or reverse gears, it could be the plastic balls in your valve body getting stuck in the the holes. I believe Sonnax makes a rebuild kit for valve body and they also make stronger parts for the rest of the transmission. If I were dealing with it I would pull the tranny and inspect all clutch packs and clean the whole thing out. Look at the pump first of course as that will be tell tale of what’s deeper in but I definitely would not try to solve it by flushing further at this point. If the lining material just disintegrated without galling the pump and the subsequent shifts in the tranny didn’t happen at low pressure thereby trashing everything, you could be lucky but thoroughly inspecting is now required in my opinion. I would have to rent another truck meantime to keep my business going. Do what’s necessary, otherwise you could waste a lot of money. Good luck.

I personally have not had this problem but it seems that many of these trucks suffer from bad ground connection issues. Sometimes it is a ground connection installed on a painted stud and nut, sometimes it is the wire connected to the negative battery terminal. A bad ground connection can cause the issue you are having. Search this issue on the web, you will easily find videos of where they are and how to fix these known issues. Good luck!

I recently replaced the battery for the first time in my 2017 3500HD with 6.0 and while doing this noticed that the battery post was a little bit wiggly on the battery. I’ve seen this happen on cheap batteries before especially if there was a long battery lead that wasn’t tied down well in the engine bay, but I was surprised because this is a AGM battery and they aren’t cheap. I wasn’t having any problems but noticed a lower voltage under load so I just went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved for me. I checked all the connections when I did this. There are 5 positive and the one ground connection on mine. The ground connection is very substantial. It was the longest time taking battery replacement I’ve ever done.

I’d second that, if not that, wiring to check next. Be sure you have good battery voltage first though.

I decided that since I will have to do these replacements at one time or another that I will just replace things with high performance parts instead of stock parts. As long as I don’t overdo it, these engines can make a lot more power in modified trim and since I have to pay for it anyway, I might as well have some fun. With just tuning that I’ve done so far, I can spin the tires whenever I like. It is almost like GM is saying: build it better.

Just curious as to engine maintenance history, did you personally do the oil changes on the motor or did you have a service center or dealership do the oil changes, and at what intervals? I have 2 DOD Chevys and I’m wondering about the horrible trouble you’re having here.

So true! I put a 180 degree thermostat in my truck to try to keep temps down a little, it runs at about 200 degrees. Doing a few modifications and heat can be the enemy. Fuel economy is not what I’m after but engine longevity is. Running cooler is not detrimental in any way as far as I know. I am hoping to extend engine life by running a little cooler when it can. If your radiator is allowing the engine to run that cool then it tells you that your cooling is more than adequate. If you want the engine to run at stock temperatures then just replace the thermostat with a stock one. It seems that the thermostat you have in there now is either not the stock part number/ temperature, or is stock but defectively opening early. No damage being done. 180 degrees shouldn’t even give you a CEL.