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Everything posted by WT35002017

  1. Finally installed a home made intake and catch cans. The air box size was increased by as much as I could make it higher and the MAF tube size is now 3.85 inches inside clean versus the stock 3.45 inch one with target air vanes inside. The vacuum lines to the catch cans are 3/8 ID air hose which is strong enough to support vacuum type pressure. I tuned it some today and I can definitively say that it offers more horsepower potential than the stock air tube. It is quiet enough for normal throttle but it is very loud when I get on it. But not loud enough for it to overpower the sound of my tires spinning
  2. I use my 6.0 3500HD as a towing ehicle for my business but I love spirited driving. I’m relieved that I was able to get the L96 since no DI. I have tuned it and got my 0-60 down to 8.5 seconds. It is fun to drive even though so heavy! I plan on some engine mods in the near future, and a lockup diff in the back. I’m running 3 extra trans coolers bringing summer highway towing at 70mph down to 180 degrees. The box trailer I tow is about 10 feet high. I think this is the last new truck I’ll ever buy because I love the LS motor!
  3. @No Tyme I did a typo there, I meant that it won’t go into v4 mode if you use L5 or L4, not L6. On my Caddie as long as I use L9 or less it avoids V4 mode. I’ve been programming GM motors using Hp tuners and there is a lot of questions as to the programability of the line pressure on the T43 TCM. It seems that even though it can be programmed, the actual line pressure will not change unless many torque related coefficients are in line to show the need for more line pressure. For any high performance application it is well recommended that a kit such as from Sonax for raising the line pressure be used. I’m personally trying it out the programming way but I will always verify line pressures with a mechanical gauge. I may switch it a built transmission in the future.
  4. I work on my vehicles myself, I redid the programming on my truck transmission so it won’t lock until I get a new torque converter in it, maybe this fall I will have the time. My truck is out of warranty anyhow.
  5. I think I misunderstood the dod part of your post there. It is true, put your truck in L mode or M mode and the engine will not go into V8 mode at all. It is the cheap way to avoid using DOD. I use that function on my Caddie.
  6. There have been so many posts on many different forums and YouTube describing how the torque converters are failing, specifically the clutch liners. If you got over 100k miles on yours you are a lucky one. The programming for these transmissions lets the lockup clutch have a constant slip which causes significant wear and when the lining fails it fills the transmission with particles clogging things and this can wear the pump which can lower the pressure during shifts and finally the trans will not shift right and could be destroyed. I wish this was an isolated incident. Best to drop your trans pan and check for lining debris or worse. I wish you the best of luck, also if you start to have erratic DOD and other electronic things going on a ground connection could be loose. There are common spots that this occurs in, check out YouTube for guidance.
  7. First thing to do is check reported oil pressure on a scanner. Then if still showing low, it could be many things. Consider last time you did oil change, truck mileage, is everything else working fine? If you are going to find trouble yourself you should check out some You Tube videos for guidance.
  8. I’m not an expert. I finally received a stall converter that I ordered about 2 months ago but I won’t have time to replace mine for another couple months. I’m very interested in not having my linings self destruct before I can replace the converter but I wasn’t able to change the lockup programming on the TCM until about 2 months ago with HP Tuners. The stock programming is part of the problem with these trucks. It allows for slip all the time for a smoother ride but it prematurely can and will wear the lockup surface which then pollutes the transmission. If you were driving fine and you suddenly lost forward or reverse gears, it could be the plastic balls in your valve body getting stuck in the the holes. I believe Sonnax makes a rebuild kit for valve body and they also make stronger parts for the rest of the transmission. If I were dealing with it I would pull the tranny and inspect all clutch packs and clean the whole thing out. Look at the pump first of course as that will be tell tale of what’s deeper in but I definitely would not try to solve it by flushing further at this point. If the lining material just disintegrated without galling the pump and the subsequent shifts in the tranny didn’t happen at low pressure thereby trashing everything, you could be lucky but thoroughly inspecting is now required in my opinion. I would have to rent another truck meantime to keep my business going. Do what’s necessary, otherwise you could waste a lot of money. Good luck.
  9. I personally have not had this problem but it seems that many of these trucks suffer from bad ground connection issues. Sometimes it is a ground connection installed on a painted stud and nut, sometimes it is the wire connected to the negative battery terminal. A bad ground connection can cause the issue you are having. Search this issue on the web, you will easily find videos of where they are and how to fix these known issues. Good luck!
  10. I recently replaced the battery for the first time in my 2017 3500HD with 6.0 and while doing this noticed that the battery post was a little bit wiggly on the battery. I’ve seen this happen on cheap batteries before especially if there was a long battery lead that wasn’t tied down well in the engine bay, but I was surprised because this is a AGM battery and they aren’t cheap. I wasn’t having any problems but noticed a lower voltage under load so I just went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved for me. I checked all the connections when I did this. There are 5 positive and the one ground connection on mine. The ground connection is very substantial. It was the longest time taking battery replacement I’ve ever done.
  11. I’d second that, if not that, wiring to check next. Be sure you have good battery voltage first though.
  12. I decided that since I will have to do these replacements at one time or another that I will just replace things with high performance parts instead of stock parts. As long as I don’t overdo it, these engines can make a lot more power in modified trim and since I have to pay for it anyway, I might as well have some fun. With just tuning that I’ve done so far, I can spin the tires whenever I like. It is almost like GM is saying: build it better.
  13. Just curious as to engine maintenance history, did you personally do the oil changes on the motor or did you have a service center or dealership do the oil changes, and at what intervals? I have 2 DOD Chevys and I’m wondering about the horrible trouble you’re having here.
  14. So true! I put a 180 degree thermostat in my truck to try to keep temps down a little, it runs at about 200 degrees. Doing a few modifications and heat can be the enemy. Fuel economy is not what I’m after but engine longevity is. Running cooler is not detrimental in any way as far as I know. I am hoping to extend engine life by running a little cooler when it can. If your radiator is allowing the engine to run that cool then it tells you that your cooling is more than adequate. If you want the engine to run at stock temperatures then just replace the thermostat with a stock one. It seems that the thermostat you have in there now is either not the stock part number/ temperature, or is stock but defectively opening early. No damage being done. 180 degrees shouldn’t even give you a CEL.
  15. It is a mechanical hydrostatic controlled fan, not electrically controlled. I wish it was a couple electric fans. It’s been working well, as soon as I come to a red light it will engage and disengages after getting up to around 30mph. It was like 93 degrees air temp in Orlando a couple days ago already!
  16. In an effort to run the truck at a lower engine temp I took off the fan to adjust the thermostat coil on the front of the fan clutch. It’s not adjustable like some aftermarket ones are so the bent the bimetallic coil out of its holding position a little to get er done. It will now “lock” the fan to spin at a lower temperature.
  17. Got my 180 degree thermostat in yesterday. It was such a pain to burb the cooling system. I put the front of the truck on ramps and squeezed the hoses. I had to start the truck, wait for it to warm up, turn it off, squeeze hoses, add fluid, repeat like 6 times. Then test drove it, then added more coolant, then parked it overnight, then added a little more this morning. I know there is some kind of tool for fluid filling that uses a vacuum pump but this is ridiculous. I may have to come up with a fill tap-in to put in the upper radiator hose because I will probably need to do more of this kind of engine work as time goes on. End result: runs about 10 degrees cooler. Used a Motorad 523-180.
  18. Even just a week after I bought my new 2017 Silverado 3500 WT I began having those problems and I pulled the fuses for ABS and traction control. I know that seems weird and I’m not saying you should do this but I grew up racing and never liked those features anyways. I tow a lot and this forced me to get a aftermarket trailer brake controller. This actually works much better than the stock one. Happier all around and I never had to deal with the dealership hassle that I read so many people have had to deal with over the years. Good luck, it is a GM issue that maybe or maybe not they can fix for you.
  19. Amsoil Signature Series is what I use in my 6L90 and it also qualifies as Dexron HP. I definitely recommend it, my transmission ran cooler and shifted smoother immediately after filling with it.
  20. Amsoil Signature Series is what I use in my 6L90 and it also qualifies as Dexron HP. I definitely recommend it, my transmission ran cooler and shifted smoother immediately after filling with it.
  21. 10-4, it is the new bung on the passenger side in front of the cat. In the picture the 4 old o2 bungs just have tape covering them, the new bung has a plug in it, because I painted it. Went for a test drive and wide band is working great.
  22. Took off cat section of exhaust today and welded in a bung for my new AEM wide band so I could use it with HPTuners to tune my engine. I built 4 ramps to easily lift my truck up 12 inches a couple months ago and they allowed me all the space I needed to take off the exhaust. It was easier to weld than I thought it would be. I used .030 flux core wire feed with no gas to weld on an ICT billet mild steel bung. It looks great after a bit of grinding to finish it. Wide band works perfectly and can’t wait to start learning the tuning processes as described in the HPTuners forum!
  23. Finally got Hptuners and did my first tune of the ECU and transmission, removing torque management braking and also removing torque converter lockup on gears 1-4. It’s a 6 speed. I’m very pleased with how it has turned out. Acceleration is smooth and fast compared to before. There is so much more I will change but I’ll spend some more time learning to use the scanner properly before I change shift points and other things. Still no wide band yet so engine tuning will have to wait.
  24. Unfortunately the dealership won’t pay me to spend my time going over with them what is wrong and needs to be fixed. The whole culture of the customer bowing down to the almighty corporations to me is just crazy. When I bought the truck I figured it would take me a little time to sort it out. If the fuel injection system was defective I would have just slapped a carb on it and been more than happy doing it too. As you can tell, I’ve owned a BMW before…
  25. I have looked at many of the posts here to see if anyone has done what I have to alleviate these vibrations but I don’t think anyone has. Background: I used to race 1/8 mile asphalt supermods so I never liked the thought of torque restriction electronics or ABS or traction control. I had the vibration problems even when my 2017 Silverado 3500hd WT was new, especially it was felt while slowly shifting from 2nd to 3rd and then to 4th. Modulation of throttle in higher gears also caused vibration. I removed traction control and ABS fuses and the vibrations are no longer present. Smooth as glass all the way to 90. I have dash lights now but in the future may be able to take them away with HPtuners. The truck is a different animal with this easy mod as acceleration is not hindered and is now instant. I am convinced that there are programming issues related to the transmission and torque control. The transmission, 6L90, now shifts firmly also. Love my truck, love every vehicle I’ve ever owned. I mostly tow with my truck so I had to buy a towing brake system since the factory one is disabled when I disabled the ABS. Totally worth it, the trailer brake is better than what came with the truck by far. Good luck to all out there!
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