TrueBlue

I'd be interested to know if it throws codes that do not cause a CEL to glow. One of the guys here is having problems with this transmission, and the second dealer he brought it to said they found a code, that did not cause the CEL to come on, and indicated that his shutters were malfuncting. If this device causes such a code and the dealer sees it, well, codes for electrical issues, related or not, could be a cause for denying warranty work. So far there are only two things about my truck that bother me. One is the DFM and I "solve" this by driving in S9 all the time, the other is the auto stop/start. I've trained myself to shift into S9 every time I put the truck in gear, and have also become pretty good about remembering to hit the autoS/S button. On other cars I have that button is down by my left knee, so remembering (and seeing it), is a bit harder. Thankfully the button on the truck is right where it should be.

but, but, you can't see them when they're on.

Mine is only an LT, not an HD, and I've yet to pull either of my trailers with it yet, but last summer in the worst of our heat (90+), if memory serves it never got up to 165. Most of the time it ran around 145 or so. But even towing, since these trucks are engineered to haul relatively large loads I can't see where they would be designed to "normally" run in the temps you've reported consistently. Especially with cast aluminum engines and trannies. Then again I'm not an engineer. But I have been driving cars and trucks for more than 50 years. Your situation is well outside of any experience I've encountered.

The reason I ask is that if it gets hot every time you tow, but not every time otherwise then if your issue does have to do with the shutters there must be something about towing that is triggering yours to stay closed under load. Makes me want to hook up my big trailer to make sure I don't have the same issue. Will wait for Summer for that though. I have seen youtube videos (maybe linked in this thread?), that show how to remove every other set of fins in the shutter housing in such a way that it always allows airflow, but doesn't trigger a CEL as it would if you removed the whole assembly, or otherwise stopped them from operating altogether. Oh, and if you have an OBD2 scanner, have you ever checked for a code yourself, with no light actually being on?

Sounds promising. Not just the potential issue but also the dealer who is looking beyond what they already know (or don't). Good luck! Oh, and one other question, the answer to which you might want to pass along to them. Has your truck ever towed anything without overheating?

Strange that the other dealer could not see the code. Also that they would not have this potential cause on a list of things to check for. I'll be very interested in hearing your outcome. Did this new dealer specifically say that closed shutters could affect tranny fluid temps? Also, did you find that your line is not twisted or kinked as that TSB described? Good luck, and I hope very much that this fixes the issue!

Well, before buying mine on eBay I reaced out to the seller who confirmed that those were the ones that would fit my truck. And they plugged right in. I haven't actually looked at them lit up yet.

I too would expect that the tranny coolant lines would be all metal. So the picture is confusing from that standpoint alone.

Thanks. I would hope that by using Chevron exclusively as I do that I wouldn't have to worry about adulterated fuel. I wasn't trying to say the gas is sub-par, just that the Winter fuel mix is crap. In principle.

Don't know. Good question. But tow/haul won't deactivate DFM will it?

You're right, it's hard to tell. The most obvious possibility is what I circled. But I'm really not sure. Please let us know what you find. and where exactly it is if you do find it.

Can one of you guys find that detailed image the document mentions and post it here please? It will also give you something specific to look for on your truck Arthur.

Ha, back then, with or without an 8 track, you were a big cheese in a Z28. At least in my book.

Can the Manager give you a number to call at GM? Does anyone know of a department at GM that handles cases like this? Barring that, can you get all the documentation pertaining to your visits at that dealership regarding this issue, and take it all to another dealer? We are not confined to the dealership that we buy the truck from as you probably already know. And the dealerships do compete with one another for business, in sales, service, and warranty work.

First music I ever bought was a 45. The Beatles: Side A was Come Together, Side B was Get Back, if memory serves.

Best of luck to you!

I had an AM radio from Radio Shack that bolted to the handlebars of my Stingray in the '60's. Listened to many games with the likes of Sandy Koufax, Willie Mays, Carl Yastrzemski, Don Drysdale, and even Billy Martin. Did I mention, I'm old? so...even with the non-premium sounds in this truck, it sounds very good compared to any of my vehicles before the 2010's.

I've had Bose systems in two Miatas and they're both anemic. On one I always drove it with an amp and MP3 player combo plugged into the Aux jack. Sounded better then because it wasn't the speakers that were the primary issue, it was the Bose amp.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I've added all the parts to a cart on Crutchfield, and the front harness to another cart, and printed them off. After the first of the year I'll order them and enjoy better sound. First speakers I ever bought for a car were Jensen's back in the 70's. They were the goto speaker for that type of thing then. I paid $59 for them then, and here we are now about 50 years later and I'm paying about the same. China does make some crap on their own, but with a solid company spec'ing out the material and construction they can also produce some quality goods. I just wish more companies would bring the manufacturing back here, and cut out the middle man.

Another thing you might do is to crawl under your truck and follow the tranny coolant lines from front to back. Look for any kinks or crimps that don't look like they should be there. Also make sure they they are mounted where they should be, away from other sources of heat. A pity that we sometimes have to do things that the manufacturer or the dealership should do, but it is what it is.

Can you by chance provide links to the items you purchased? I too have the base stereo, and while I don't crank it up these days I noticed the other day that even at low to mid level volumes, music with high base will rattle the door speakers. Not good.

Were it me I'd drive around with the camper until it started to overheat and then bring it straight to the dealer. Even if it meant driving circles around the vicinity. And first let them know I was going to be doing just that so they could have the right person on hand to observe it when I drove the truck and camper in hot. Might be time to think out of the box a bit. Possibly even look for something like a notary public, or an advocate for situations just like this. Possibly a trained mechanic that is certified by GM but doesn't actually work for them?

Come on GM. For the love of pete just put a new transmission in this guy's truck and be done with it. What would your cost be on that? $1000. Don't you think that amount would benefit you in customer satisfaction and relations more greatly than that? This guy buys a new truck from you, documents the problems with it from the gitgo, loses the use of his truck for months now, and you as a company are ignoring the issue? Shameful.

Are the mounting assemblies going to swap over onto the aftermarket speakers?

I think the problem with these boxes breaking is due to how quickly and sharply they pop open when new. I use my thumb to open the box and let my fingers keep the box lid from slamming upward. Bad design on their part. They should have built a shock buffer of some sort into the mechanism so that they don't flip up so hard. Don't forget to tell your passenger to slow the opening as well. I have a feeling it wouldn't take more than a few unassisted openings to break, especially in a cold interior.