TrueBlue

I thought I had read here somewhere that the Onstar antenna is behind the left a-pillar. Is that right? I read recently that many manufacturers are selling driving information to lexusnexus(sp?), who is turn selling it to insurance companies. Sometimes "permissions" to do so are embedded deep in the fine print of user agreements, sometimes it is done under the terms of "Smart Driver" programs, sometimes it is done even if explicit permission is not even given. Since I don't use onstar I would like to just disconnect the antenna. Especially given that my insurance premium went up almost 75% this year, with no accidents and no tickets. I don't have a lead foot but I do drive my truck in a spirited manner once in awhile. It is not unusual for insurance companies to use any means possible to raise rates. I'd like to eliminate their possible use of my data as, how fast one takes off from a standing start, whether or not we brake going into corners, whether or not we ever exceed the posted speed limit, and how hard we brake to stop are just some of the data points being provided. So if the antenna is there, is there a specific right way required to remove that pillar such that no tabs are broken? Thanks!

Which motor? My 2023 LT 2.7T developed an oil pan leak at 700 miles. My 2023 LT 5.3L is so far not leaking anything.

Not an a-hole. And I still believe what I said to be true. However you were right in that I misstated my own experience, specifically that my tire size increased by 3", when in fact it was as you stated 1.9". Not intentional, just a lapse in memory. But, even at just the 1.9" increase in my case, which went off without a hitch on my truck, why then would the OP who was only going 1.12" on the same model as me, not be able to do the same? Or perhaps my increase had me at the limits of tire size increase, and his would put him over that limit? Not sure, but given that the High Country (as well as Silverados), can come with 22" wheels on it from the factory, I doubt another 1.1" on his truck would require a 2" lift. Regardless, you should try to avoid the keyboard commando tactics. I've been nothing but polite here, even allowing that I myself was making a mistake on what I was saying, which I was and admitted to. You should do the same. We're all here to learn, and then give back when possible. At least those are my reasons. YMMV

Not saying that just because the wheel is the same they have to fit. In his case the wheel size and tire width are equal, but the profile of the setup he's going to is 5% more than his original. His original profile height is 6.48". Where he wants to go is a profile that is 7.04". That equates to .56" taller, top and bottom. Or 1.12" taller, total. Same wheel size before and after, therefore the total increase in the diameter of the tire is 1.12". My height increase was 3.3", and fits fine. No rubbing, no bottoming out. His would too at one third of that, unless I've missed something. Which is possible. But I don't think so.

I had no idea you felt like an idiot. If so, it's not my doing, and I had no intent to make you feel like one. But we are definitely not seeing things the same. Maybe I'm the idiot? A 245/60R17 tire and a 245/60R20 tire do not have the same diameter. Both have the same width and profile, however the 20 is going to be taller, (from the ground to the top of the tire), because it has to fit around the 20" wheel. Right? The OP said he wanted to go from a 275/60/20 to a 275/65/20. Same width, same wheel size, profile increases by 5%. No issues in mounting or using on a truck.

Good example of the difference between torque and horsepower.

Actually he said he wanted to go from a 275/60/20 to a 275/65/20. No change in wheel size. However, to go from a 17" wheel to a 20" wheel does indeed add more height to the diameter. At 1.5" top and bottom. Now you could say that is not the wheel but rather the tire, since you could not mount a 20" tire on a 17" wheel, of course the wheel does factor into the total heighth. Or the tire does, your choice. But one is not possible without the other. Now in his case, when you use the actual tire sizes he provided, as I said by changing the profile by 5% he added a total of 1.1" to his diameter, half on the bottom and half on the top. Pretty much negligible on a truck. In my case by going with a 3" larger wheel and fatter tires I added all of that 3" in diameter. And I had to do nothing to my truck to have them fit, turn, and travel without contacting the hard parts.

The stock setup on the truck I have now had a 30.1" diameter with 255/70R17's, while those I have on it now have a 33" diameter with 275/60R20's. Went up 3" with no changes whatsoever to the truck. No rubbing. The wheel size does factor in. As does the width and profile of the tire. The 50/60/70/75 etc, is the percentage of the width of the tire that becomes the profile. So all three dimensions factor in. The OP said, " Posted January 19 I have a 2022 refresh Silverado 5.3 4wd. My stock tire size that came on the truck is 275/60/20. What I would like to do is upgrade to 275/65/20. It is approximately a little over an inch taller than my stock tires. Would I be able to do this without lifting the front " Tire width, and wheel diameter remained the same between both sets. All he was doing was changing the profile of the tire by 5%, everything else was the same. His tires had a width of 10.83" on both sets. The profile of the first set was 6.5" The profile of the second set was 7.02". So, his second set was roughly 1.1" taller than the first. Don't think that would matter much

Thanks again for the info!

Thanks @newdude. This would mean that the young man in the service department who I spoke to was not aware that there is a flash that can be done to the ECM to calibrate the odo/speedo! Not a big deal for me since I know how much under my speedo is reading, and I have an extended warranty on the truck which will almost certainly expire due to time rather than mileage since I don't typically put a lot of miles on my vehicles. My first '23 was a Sterling Gray LT with the 2.7 turbo, and 275/60R20's Grazen Pocket wheel and tire package (as seen in the picture below). After 700 miles it developed an oil leak at the front of the oil pan. I took the opportunity to trade it in and upgrade to a Glacier Blue 5.3 LT that they didn't have available when I bought the first truck. It came with the 255/70R17's. I negotiated with them to swap the wheels and tires between the trucks before I took delivery of the second truck. So given that this is pretty close to Scenario 1 in your Bulletin I'm assuming that they could flash my ECM. And perhaps with no charge to me?

Thanks for the update Arthur. I sure hope you are able to get this ironed out.

FWIW the service dept. told me that they have no flash ability for the different wheel and tire packages to correct odo/speedo variations. I asked them because my truck came with 17" 255/70's and I had them put 20" 275/60's that came with my trade-in on it. As near as I can figure my speedo is off 3.7mph at 70mph. I don't know why they would tell me they didn't if in fact they do if it would enable them to make money on a flash. They said that the High Country comes with 22" wheels and they're no difference in the ECM(?), even for them. I don't always believe what service departments tell me, but in this case I don't see any motivation for them to say they don't have the ability to do so, though it is possible the young man I spoke to just didn't know.

I'd say yes. My blue '23 came with 17" 255/70 wheels and tires. I traded in another '23 that came with 20" 275/60 wheels and tires. As part of the deal I had them swap the wheels and tires on the trucks so I could keep the wider and taller setup. They did so, in about an hour at the dealership, and later told me there was not even a flash for the different packages that would correct the odo/speedo. So, essentially I went with a 3" larger diameter wheel and no changes to the truck's wheel well area, or anything else were required.

I think we're saying the same thing, though I'm not articulating well. I know the 4H doesn't offer any gear reduction, as opposed to the 4L which does. I had two speed transfer cases on my '86? full size Jimmy and my '85? full size Blazer. So I'm familiar with what 4L can do for you. But, perhaps mistakenly I thought that having these single speed transfer cases in 4H with the tranny in 1 or 2 (and a light foot on the gas), would deliver something that approaches 4L, at least in on-road and light off-road application. Not equal certainly, but better than 4H with the tranny in auto mode, right?

Right, but the tranny will slow you down if necessary, and even in 4H the gearing lowers wheel rpms. So in messy situations where gravity is not working against you, 4H in L1 or L2 is much better than being in auto shift (D), and allowing the tranny to shift up when the wheels start spinning. Right?

Any updates on your issue Arthur?

Just out of curiosity, wouldn't 4H in L1 or L2 do the same thing?

No, it's definitely an OBD2 Tool Now, because I've never before plugged it into any of my newer, push-button cars I'm not entirely sure I did it correctly. I plugged the tool in, waited for it to show me the Can display, pushed the start button without touching the brake, pressed enter on the tool, and then waited while it cycled through all the protocols shown in the booklet. After that it said Connection Error, or somesuch.

It's got to be close to 10 years old. I've never had an issue with it on any of the other cars I've connected it to. Just my truck. But, prior to this the only vehicles I used it on were very late 90's and very early 2000's. It is not an expensive model, likely made across the big water.

Do the ODB2 protocols/standards change such that an older tool might not work in a newer vehicle? Tried hooking mine up to my truck today and got a "Link Error" each time.

I had no idea that a tennis ball trick existed. And the list I saw contained no information about model years, so it's possible it is specific to older trucks, just don't know. I do appreciate the info given though. FWIW I live out in the country, on the end of a long private lane. There are only 3 homes on the lane so we don't get much in the way of traffic, let alone people wandering around with scanners looking for fob signals. So I think I'm safe in that regard too. I'm also retired and don't go into a big city very much. I'm glad to hear that the ECM swap sounds as if it would take a few minutes at least. I rarely leave my vehicles unattended for long periods like I had to when I was still working in large buildings. All in all unless more information comes to light that says newer trucks are the target, and that they have a quick way of taking them my truck will likely stay in my hands. I do know that these thieves will sometimes sit outside car dealerships with their scanners and wait for salesman and prospective buyers to approach a vehicle and open it with a fob. They do capture that signal, make a duplicate and come back later at night and drive the vehicle away. I bought a Miata several years back and that dealership lost a half dozen cars that way, in a single night. I guess the good guys can only hope to be no more than one step behind the bad guys in this tech-centric world we live in. Thanks again for all the info!

It's not the defense of the brand that is out there here. It's your tendency to go on and on about what you own and have experienced. In threads that have nothing to do with what you're talking about. Most people in forums like this are here to learn. Others are here to give back. I for one would appreciate it if you could either stay on topic on my threads, or at least wait until someone with knowledge about the issue at hand has had the chance to help me and others. And btw, you're not the only one with 50+ years of vehicle ownership with dozens of makes and models. But that particular truth about me does not help me to get to the bottom of this issue, nor does yours. Difference being that I didn't include it and you did. You want to be helpful and give back Stan? Stay on topic when you can. Or at least most of the time. None of us is perfect. I get that.

Yet here you are, in a forum for trucks much newer than what you keep. Crappin' on threads to which you have nothing to offer. I seem to recall other posts like this last one of yours. Envious? Or just like discord?

New story here in the PNW recently stated that the Silverado was the 3rd most stolen vehicle in 2023, right behind two Hondas. No other information beyond stats. I know that the Kias have a vulnerability that is being used to steal them (but I guess they're not as desirable as our trucks). Do anyone have any info on what it is about our trucks that makes them easy enough to take that they ended up so high on such a list? Double edged sword I know, to report such a thing. But being forewarned is forearmed. It would be nice know what I can do to keep the thieves away from my truck.

Congrats! Love mine, even though it's only a 5.3. The blue is a great color too.