TrueBlue

You should call your dealership. Just a starting point.

Haven't bought a lot of HF tools, as I've always been a Craftsman, and other name brand user. But I have got quite a few of their inexpensive things that are not mission critical to me. A while back I picked up a Hercules 1hp 8" bench grinder from them and I've got to say the thing is well made and will last me for the rest of my life. I bought another bench grinder from them years ago and burned it up. Not this one. Their Hercules line seems to be pretty stout. If I didn't already have a lot invested in Milwaukee and Ridgid 18v tools and batteries I'd be giving their Hercules cordless tools a whirl for sure. I've returned one thing and it was painless. Can't remember now what it was, but they're close by, and what I returned was an in stock item so it was easy for them to replace it. No issues on that one incident.

You're closer to this than most of us @newdude, so you're likely right. However I have yet to find anyone who is actually a fan of the tech, or will even admit that they find it useful. By and large I think that it's one of those things that people love or hate, and I've yet to find anyone that loves it. That being said, and as @Silverado4x4stated, GM (and others), could make money on this. Creating a very simple ECM tweak to disable it, and upcharging to apply it could create some revenue. Alternatively for those companies who actually care about what their customers want, and don't want, it could be a simple, optional OTA tweak that might help to keep the customer base pleased with their purchase. Of course if that original "incentive" was binding for the life of the vehicle, it would never happen to our advantage.

once Trump's repeal of the requirement to have them is in place? It would be very nice to be able to do this, without having to rely on a third party device.

@Chris Henson Thank you very much Chris, this works like a charm! Haven't tried it in our Subaru yet but in the truck it is exactly what I needed/wanted.

If you don't do electrical you're kind of at the mercy of someone who does. Wiring relays is not hard, however in today's bus systems in which resistances (impedance), are critical to the system working correctly, it makes it harder to just do things "the old way". If you have a mechanic who's familiar with the bus systems in today's vehicles that would be your safest bet, as they would probably know whether or not you could essentially bypass the relay in the fuse block, and if so what a suitable replacement relay might be.

Anyway you can bypass the hardwired fuse box relay and add another outside of it? Also, given that you may be parking our rig outside, are your wipers by chance sticking to the windshield?

Some folks, in today's world seem to think that there is no need to take responsibility for one's own actions (or inactions as the case may be). Why should Grandpa have to buy an insurance policy to keep grandson from taking the time to be responsible for his (or his Mom's), own challenges? Not to say there would be anything wrong with Grandpa doing so of his own accord. But sometimes tough love, and the lesson in self sufficiency that might come from it, are worth more to the recipient than a golden ticket.

I will try this, thank you!

I think you're spot on @KARNUT and would think that anyone that relies on getting from point A to point B in their automobile should have an interest in basic car maintenance. Either that, or be interested in making enough money to have an actual mechanic/technician on retainer.

The factory shutter valve, or whatever it's called will also add to the dynamic of what you're listening for and feeling. I removed mine when I had the exhaust changed. I do like hearing the motor, and you're right in that you can actually hear it downshift moreso in L9 than otherwise. My truck sounds like a '70s V8, which how I like it. Not too loud but plenty loud enough when I put my foot into it. And I can hear it at all times which I also wanted. I'm skeptical about DFM adding anything to the balance. More likely what you're feeling there is just a different or lesser "punch" due to it suddenly becoming a six cylinder when it activates. At that point two sets of the moving parts are just coming along for the ride so to speak, and instead not adding to the cause of the crank rotation.

Thanks @Bikerjon I will install it at some point. When I changed my oil a couple of weeks ago I took a look up there with my truck on ramps, and believe I can access the ECM connector without even peeling the fender liner back. From the looks of things it'll take me longer to get my stepladder and remove the negative batt cable than it will to install the Range Unit. I've only had my truck in twice, the first time when the CEL came on for the Aero Shutters not cycling. And the second time when they had the recall on the brake and the sound system software updates And each time I had to remove the A pillar cover and reconnect the antennas behind it before doing so. And then disconnect them again afterwards. The second time the light came on the code was again for the aero shutters and I just waited it out. It self corrected after the temps warmed and they were able to cycle again. I do my own oil changes but I'm still stalling on the disabler until I get a bit more confident about not having to take the truck in again anytime soon. Yeah Jimbeau, I doubt that the L10 or D gear would give even a full mpg to the fuel economy. Especially for those of us who don't habitually run the truck to high revs. I could be wrong, and eventually I'll find out for sure when I install the disabler and just put it in D everytime.

Running in L9 prevents DFM from activating. The jury is out on whether or not it could/would prevent lifter failure though I'm using it to hedge my bets. If the spring mechanism on them that provides the lifter the ability to "deactivate" is not used, well theoretically that part of the system won't fail. From what I've read and heard most of the recent (2019-2021) failures were due to bad batches of lifters which were out of spec in their heat treatment hardness. That was reportedly fixed before our trucks were produced. And I haven't heard of any failures in our year's units. Doesn't mean we won't but by keeping our oil changed and clean, and for me driving in L9 is my (and others) way of hopefully avoiding that type of failure. Driving in L9 doesn't make a significant difference in fuel economy, and the transmission does still automatically start off in L1 and progress up, so it's behavior is no different. It's just that the system sees L9 as a signal that tells it DFM is not wanted/needed and so it doesn't engage.

'23 LT 5.3L with 9200 miles on it now. Bought it 8/23 with 35 miles on the clock. Driven in L9 since new. No issues outside of the aero vents not cycling a couple of times in freezing weather. Love the truck. I have a Range DFM disabler for it but am still making sure I won't have any warranty issues that would require me to pull it, before I install it. Already in the habit of pushing the disable button on the dash for the auto start stop defeat, and shifting into L9 before moving. I put a Magnaflow 14" dual out muffler on it early and love the sound. I do change my oil every 3K.

So, those who have switched to 5w-30, is it still important to run Dexos1 oil? I've been changing my own oil, at ~3K miles each time. So I'm fairly certain the 5.3 in my LT will keep chugging along quietly. But I do like the thought of using a slightly thicker viscosity.

@s10dragracer888 Did you get any info after they removed and hopefully tore apart your old engine?

In June of '23 I bought a new '23 LT with the 2.7L in it. After about 700 miles I noticed what I believed to be a rear main leak. I had already decided I should have waited on a 5.3 like I originally wanted so I traded that 2.7 in and got my 5.3. This gen of trucks was so new then I had no way of knowing that it could have been a recurring problem like you had. I hope they fixed the root cause of yours and you have no further issues.

Best of luck to you Sir on your new Ram. I hope this one works out for you. Thanks for letting us know what did and didn't happen throughout this debacle.

I did something similar in my '23. I bought a cargo net that stretches across the bed and fastened it to the rear-most tie-downs. Then I put a cooler and a plastic storage box behind it. They're wedged between the cargo net and the tailgate so they won't slide forward. I've carried so many things there that I hardly ever have to put things in the cab.

At least this time you're letting folks know that their information will be shared. Wish you had let me know when I bought my truck that you would be sharing my driving info with my insurance company. Not sure I'd trust GM with any further information about me or my truck at this point though.

One would think they would welcome warranty repair. Though I'd guess they don't always come without a fight with the mothership over taking it on.

Thanks Jon. Me too I had the flapper removed when I had the first exhaust installed. I've been watching the reports of tranny shuddering closely. So far so good, for me. I'm kind of at a loss to understand how it could be related to an exhaust component, but, I'm not an engineer or even a GM certified technician.

He's owned his shop there for about 30 years. If we had gone with what I wanted it would have been two mufflers in back of a Y pipe. What he installed was a single, dual outlet muffler, no Y pipe. This was less expensive than what it would have been. I've used this guy for years myself and I've never gotten the impression he was talking out of his hat. The Magnusson Act allows for customers/owners to work on their own vehicles, and to prevent unfair voiding of warranty by manufacturers. But it doesn't prevent that from happening in every case. What the guy was saying is that if the exhaust couldn't be unbolted from the truck in order to do warranty work, the dealership would have to cut it off and then have it rebuilt/repaired by a third party when putting it back together. And thereby giving them the opportunity to refuse to fix it under warranty. I have no idea if that would be the case but, not wanting to chance it I decided to go with his recommendation given that I simply wanted a certain sound and look. Which I got.

I had a Magnaflow 14" muffler on it, dumping out behind rear passenger tire. Wanted a bit more sound and a better look. Muffler guy told me if he ran true dual exhaust from the cat back it would likely void my warranty because GM doesn't want to have to deal with a welded connection there. So I had him install a dual outlet Magnaflow, 14" again, and then route the two pipes under the back bumper. I like the sound, though I'm hoping the very slight drone I'm hearing at certain pedal positions does not get any louder at the muffler packing loosens. With the other I had zero drone. This tone is louder and deeper and I like it a lot, just so long as it stays quiet in the cab at cruising speeds. Love the look though regardless.

Thanks Jon! I was hoping to hear from you