Eddie 70

Just finished up installing McGaughy's 2" drop shackles. Easy enough to do. One thing I learned that may be of some use to the next person doing the shackle installation and it may have been mentioned. Loosen the two rear bolts where the bed it mounted to the frame. Then when you are jacking the diff up it will lift the bed and allow you to remove the bolt WITHOUT having to bend the rib that is above the leaf springs. My son came over and helped me button things up and that made it go real quick. At this point I am happy with things. Rear As found measurements from ground to center of wheel well. Drivers side 39 3/8" Passengers 39 1/2" Rear As left Drivers side 38" Passengers 37 15/16" Front As Found, no changes made here Drivers side 36 1/2" Passengers 36 5/8" It may settle some more not sure. But I just snugged the bolts in the shackles. I wanted to put a few miles on it before torquing.

Just finished up installing McGaughy's 2" drop shackles. Easy enough to do. One thing I learned that may be of some use to the next person doing the shackle installation and it may have been mentioned. Loosen the two rear bolts where the bed it mounted to the frame. Then when you are jacking the diff up it will lift the bed and allow you to remove the bolt WITHOUT having to bend the rib that is above the leaf springs. My son came over and helped me button things up and that made it go real quick. At this point I am happy with things. Rear As found measurements from ground to center of wheel well. Drivers side 39 3/8" Passengers 39 1/2" Rear As left Drivers side 38" Passengers 37 15/16" Front As Found, no changes made here Drivers side 36 1/2" Passengers 36 5/8" It may settle some more not sure. But I just snugged the bolts in the shackles. I wanted to put a few miles on it before torquing. I saw earlier in this thread that the torque is 85 ft.lbs. with an additional 90 degrees. Can anyone confirm this?

I quit reading the thread yesterday because of the previous posts from two individuals. Hopefully we are back on track. I really like the remote transmission filter.

Just turned 85k on my 14. So far the only bad thing to happen to mine has been the AC condenser. I bought the extended warranty and it was covered. It has rattles and squeaks in the interior that I have not been able to quiet. Currently there is a bump noise in the front end sometimes that I think may be in the rack. I will see if I can this looked at under warranty also. Other than that, the truck runs great, drives great, trans is great. I do change one gallon of fluid every 15k miles. Change the engine oil every 5k. Rotate tires every 10k. Changed the diff fluid and trans filter and fluid at 65k. Knock on wood.

Very interesting. This is something I need to check. I am checking everything that is being mentioned. Today I tightened the cross memeber to 80 ft.lbs. No effect on mine. Still have the bump noise in the front end. Anyone have any idea how much torque is needed on the body mounts?

Since mine is a 2014 and has so many possible AC issues, today I installed the bracket update that supports the ac lines where they tend to break.GM part #23264893. It's about $8 or so. Just had the condenser replaced about a month 3 weeks ago. I NEED AC!! I also torqued the front cross member bolts to 80ft.lbs. I could not find any torque specs for this but I put an 18mm open end wrench on the bolts and they turned easily. I am guessing that is not the correct torque. The reasoning behind this is I am trying to stop a bump/knock noise I get in the front end when I am leaving my neighborhood. At the top of a rise the road turns to the right and drops away, unloading the front end. Just about every time I go across this rise leaving, I get the bump/knock noise. We'll see if this stops it.

Anyone know the torque spec on the cross member. Mine is making the same bump noise when I cross a slow left hand turn over a rise when I leave my neighborhood just about every time.

I could fill mine up on Sunday and it would be ready for a recharge again on Wednesday night. I have good air now but who knows how long the aftermarket condenser will last?

Changed the oil with Mobil 1 0W-20 and a Wix filter. Siphoned a gallon of transmission fluid out and added one gallon of transmission fluid back. Hauled the old oil off. Washed the truck. I also installed a Fumoto valve to make the next oil change a little less messy. Good day.

Were they able to get you fixed up?

I only keep the truck key on my fob. I don't like carrying a bunch of keys around in my pocket. What I did to keep from hearing the fob on the column b knocking was buy one of those silicone fob covers. Fits good and no more knocking.

Thanks man for the reply. At this time I only want to lower the rear with shackles. No plans for the front.

I did mine a year or so ago. Still looks good. I'd like to do the bow ties in the wheels the same way.

I am creeping up on 80k in my 2014. I bought it used with 42k on it. I have changed all fluids except brake and coolant. So far it has been pretty good. I thought I had a worn ball joints and bought replacement a arms only to find out if had loose adjusters when I started taking the old a arms off. Currently I have a brake rotor vibration when slowing from interstate speeds that I am going to be taking care of shortly. Other than that it's been great.

What the heck does Sprinkle GSM in front would really probably help. My phone must have auto corrected that. I was thinking springs in front would probably really help. Would my truck benefit more from 4600 or 5100's? I am wanting some of the Z60 harshness taken away. Expansion joints on the interstate and bridges currently suck.

I have been thinking of putting lowering shackles on mine to try and even the rake. Would either of these shocks be good for this. I would like to take some of the bite out of the Z60 harshness. Sprinkle GSM in front would really probably help. I am 2wd and extended cab.

I had safelight put in my daily driver beater and it was fine. That car was 15 years old. My truck would get oem at this point. Maybe in another 10 years something else might be acceptable to me.

Turns out mine was the same thing. I was amazed at finding this. Problem for me was I didn't find until I had new upper control arms at the house and had painted them. On top of that I didn't get around to swapping them until a month or so later. I should be okay for a while now though.

I like the 5.3 on the sides also.

Doing McGoughy's shackles in the rear and may pull the block to get it level. Is it necessary to run shock extenders in order to keep the stock shocks? I have never lowered a vehicle before and this is new territory for me. I have a 2014 double cab standard bed if that matters.

Going back under the a arm with the front shocks? Is it just as easy and unbolting, working through to the bottom of the arm and bolting back up?

After 11K miles what made you change your mind about the way you had your shocks mounted on the bottom of the a arms? Did you do something different?

How many miles have you got on your truck after lowering the front? Are you having any issues with it?

I had one on the passengers side that was making some noise coming in and out of my driveway. I bought the truck with 42k miles on it so, I have no idea what the previous owner did to it. Lowered, lifted who knows. I changed both thinking the other one might be right behind. About $175 for both arms off of Amazon. There is 76K miles on it now.