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JTWOLD

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About JTWOLD

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  1. Problem solved. Thanks to the suggestion from TJay74, I checked all the plug wires, and sure enough the #6 wire was disconnected from the coil pack. Pulled that spark plug to be sure it wasn't fouled but it looked fine. Runs like a champ now!
  2. Well I'm now hoping it'll misfire again. When I left to take the truck to the dealer, the CEL was off but after only a couple blocks of driving it started to misfire and the CEL came on again. Since the problem seemed easily repeatable, I decided to pull over and reprogram back to stock. But sure enough, once I restarted the truck and continued driving to the dealer the problem was gone. I told the dealer I'd just continue driving it until the problem reappeared, and they agreed. I drove around town for awhile but it did not start to misfire again. So I've now parked the truck to let it cool completely, thinking the problem was easiest to repeat when starting the truck when it was cold. I'll post again as this develops.
  3. Over the weekend, my truck began to misfire on a couple short trips. The engine shudder was fairly severe, but corrected itself after a few minutes of driving. On the third attempt to drive it, the CEL light began flashing and I quickly returned home after driving less than a mile. I have an appointment with my dealer at 1:30CST today, but this is my concern... I have used a Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator to correct for the slightly larger tires installed on the vehicle. I had planned to remove the reprogramming and return back to stock before visiting the dealer. However, in order to reprogram back to stock, the calibrator requires you to delete any existing DTC's first. I read the one DTC present, which is P0300 (engine misfire), but I'm afraid to delete it for fear the DTC won't return before I get it to the dealer and they'll be unable to diagnose without the code still in the system. I think I will just take it to them as-is, explain my programming situation, allow them to see the DTC on the Hypertech, and let them decide if we need to delete it before they plug my shaking truck into their computers. Any thoughts?
  4. I ordered a Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator today for this very issue. I can't comment yet on how well it works, but the reviews were favorable. Price was about $230 everywhere, but I got mine from autoanything.com for $160 delivered on a promo code that runs thru 3/18. http://www.autoanything.com/performance-chips/61A3757A0A0.aspx
  5. Here's a pic of the LD2042 installed for anyone interested:
  6. The LD2040 does not allow you to keep the change & pen tray, but the LD2042 does. I cannot find where I originally read about this, but it basically stated that the LD2042 can be substituted for the LD2040. I can tell you first hand that it works because I bought the LD2042, and I am extremely happy with it.
  7. I am strongly considering installing a Lock'er Down console safe in my 2014 Sierra, and was looking for input and feedback from anyone who owns one or something similar. I see that two different models, the 2040 and 2042, can be installed in our consoles. It appears the 2040 fills the entire space in the Sierra console, including the space between the 12V port and the multimedia port, while the 2042 leave that space open so you can retain the stock plastic tray for pens and the small items. (see pics below) I'm leaning towards the 2042 so I can keep my pen tray, as it seems the safe would still be plenty large inside. Has anyone tried either of these? My second question is which lock style would be the best choice? On this I'm leaning towards the 4-digit combination lock because of the cost and I wouldn't have to worry about losing the key. Any and all opinions and feedback will be appreciated.
  8. FYI - I've noticed this antifreeze smell too, and mentioned it while getting my oil changed this morning. The dealer wasn't certain but thought one of my heater hoses may be seeping around the crimped fitting. They ordered me a new hose, so I'll report back once the repair is made.
  9. I seem to have "fixed" the problem, but now I'm thinking there wasn't actually a problem besides owner stupidity. Yesterday I could not get the cruise to turn on, but I think I may have been pushing the cruise cancel button (with the X) instead of the cruise on button. In my defense, I was tired and driving in heavy traffic. The wierd part was that the cruise symbol did not appear at all on the dash. Now that I've had it on again the cruise symbol is back and remains white when not active and green when on, even after shutting the truck off it still appears in white. I'm puzzled how or why the cruise symbol completely went away, and now I can't make it go away if I try. The only thing I can think of is I had my battery disconnected while installing the HIDs a couple days ago. Anyway, seems back to normal now.
  10. Good to know, I'll check that out. Thanks j-ten-ner
  11. I remember the bad brake light switch issue on the GMT900s, but didn't that cause the brake lights to be stuck on continuously? My brake lights go on & off normally.
  12. I discovered today that my cruise control will not turn on or function at all. The cruise control light does not illuminate on the dash when I push the on/off button on the steering wheel. I've reviewed the fuse diagrams in the manual twice and do not see a fuse for the cruise, so I'm stumped. Anyone know if there is a cruise control fuse, or have any other suggestions?
  13. FWIW, I installed this same Sierra spec kit last night and had no issue with the fitment or orientation of the bulbs at all. I was actually impressed how well that part of the install went, my bulbs twisted into position easily and felt very snug. I took a pic of the stock bulb before removal and noted where the wide and narrow tabs were once I had it out, and used that as a reference to be sure I had the TRS bulb oriented correctly. I did not check to see if it could be installed in an incorrect orientation though. I didn't think that was possible with the 9012 bulbs. The return wires on my bulbs are facing downward, so hopefully that's correct. My light pattern seems consistent with others I've seen here, and so far I'm really happy with the light output. Except for the radio reception issue, I'm very happy with the kit for the price and a few hours labor. Big improvement.
  14. My silver All Terrain bumper is riddled with small rock chips too after only 7 mos. and 7,200 miles. The worst part is that I had at least 5 or 6 decent chips after taking the truck on a road trip the very first week I owned it. Had I known how poor the paint on bumpers is I would've given chrome bumpers more consideration or wrapped them in film day 1 before ever driving the truck. Regardless, just an hour ago I priced having the chips touched up and the front bumper covered in Xpel film. Found a place to airbrush in the chips for $35 and the Xpel (bumper only) will be $250. I wish GM was picking up the tab for this, but live and learn I guess.
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