asilverblazer

Move further away. Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time. Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?

Wonder what happened to the "MEGA"max 8.3 rumors. I haven't had any rust issues, but the wax sure is ugly. Good to hear, considering the joint venture with International ended.

Long story short I ended up with a set of Ironman tires because of a wheel size change on our Yukon Denali - I intended for them to be temporary (no more than 12 months) until I put the tires I wanted to on it, a premium A/T. However, they've been great, quiet, no traction issues, wearing even and very cheap here. They could use a better balance job from a slight vibration at 85 or higher. But so far, I've completely abandoned my original intention to not keep them. I won't go so far as to say I'd immediately buy them again for a permanent long-term solution but if my experience continues like it has with them, I could come to that conclusion. I was also told they are made by Cooper, don't know for sure though. For your purposes on the little truck you're working with, I'd highly recommend them.

I like the idea. I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.

Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.

Maybe. Maybe. I don't want to be the one that needs help and can't get it when I need it. That is a legitimate complaint, and how they respond to those legitimate complaints is a big red flag to me. I don't care how good the product is their conduct is subpar. Some people are fine supporting that for the sake of getting the product they want. I'm not. To be fair, I haven't seen or touched their product in person to determine for myself the quality of it. I'm not offering any opinion on that either.

Can you monitor vacuum/MAP readings? Particularly, during EGR activation? Can you bench test/check the EGR valve operation? Presumably the MAP sensor is OK. No other vacuum leaks, masking the correct operation of the EGR? Cats may be fried, but I don't think they are going to change your diagnosis of EGR operation.

Maybe, finding a wiring problem will either be real easy or real hard.

Focus only on the recurring problem. Don't go looking for more. If the recurring problem is the EGR code; fix that. Ignore data that is irrelevant to diagnosing that ONE issue. It doesn't matter what the O2 sensors are reading or the timing is doing (yet) until the recurring problem is resolved. (If the diagnosis of the EGR requires O2 readings or timing advance readings then obviously use them.) FWIW: I remember watching the timing advance on my 07 Silverado, and those numbers sound similar to what I recall.

Not sure how many wires you've got to play with BUT if there is constant power AND ground at the EGR how is it switching? In other words, the grounding via the PCM to activate it makes sense to me.

Right?! Could you swap out the lights to an older style? Did they say what circuit it had to detect resistance on? It shouldn't be the running lights because those aren't on all the time, it could be the brake/turn signal circuit(s), but it seems that there might be a scenario where I would want the trailer brakes at the same time as when those lights first illuminate to recognize the trailer in the first place. If it's the 12v +, to charge trailer batteries, maybe adding a battery backup break away to the trailer would resolve the issue.

I'm inclined to say that someone set on an EV isn't looking for a 'truck'. A key defining capability for 'truck' being towing capacity, an EV simply can't tow FAR ENOUGH to matter. That means the market for the open bed of the Slate (its only other truck characteristic) is similar to the Santa Cruz, Ridegline or Maverick - very limited, due to size; it won't fit larger building materials, furniture, dirt bikes, etc. It might fit a lawnmower or bags of mulch 'suburban' type uses. Comparing the Slate again to the Ridgeline, Maverick and Santa Cruz, those have backseats + the open bed. A person's needs would have to be VERY limited to warrant the Slate truck. All said with the caveat that I don't know how permanent the two Slate configurations are, could I buy both configuration sets and swap between them? My recollection seemed to be that it is possible - whether or not its practical.

Isn't that some clever marketing, make us like the cheaper option so much we pay more for it!

My truck is diesel, L5P.

I pulled mine last night, it was crusty like all the ones on the internet. I cleaned it off and put it back on. It made a difference in drivability - truck seems to have a bit more pep to it. Milage is showing preliminarily a boost too of about 1-2 mpg. I'm going to start checking it each oil change.

I pulled mine last night at my latest oil change. It has at least 90K mile on it since its seen daylight. It looked about like the photo above. I knocked the loose stuff off, shot it with some cleaner, hit it with compressed air and put it back. I'll be danged if the truck doesn't seem to be a little lighter on its feet today. With a bit better milage too. Guess I'll be more regular about cleaning it.

Update to my experience, my truck was due an oil change per the GM OLM, right at max mileage around 7500 miles. As I've stated, the dipstick doesn't appear show a tremendous drop in oil volume over the course of a change, that needs some correction. Just prior to pulling the drain plug I noted the level on the dipstick. It was about 2/3-5/8 down on the acceptable range, not 3/4 but more than 1/2 way down. After refilling with the full 10 quarts, the dipstick measured at the top of the acceptable range - full. After noting these two dipstick readings at each end of the oil change interval spectrum, I might notice the gradual drop on the dipstick more easily during regular checks. I measured the drained volume of oil and what came out of the drain pan was about 8 1/2 quarts. To be below the add mark on the dipstick it would have to be about 2 quarts below the full 10 quarts.

The one I used between 5-10 years ago could report enhanced data. Yes I'm not sure; but it seems you've mentioned/alluded to these a bunch so I'm presuming you think these are going to be valuable, my opinion is I'd bet these won't be as useful as you think they will - UNLESS - they correspond to some other event.

I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything. Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.

My "best 20 mile average" is 26 in my truck. A whole tank average is about 17. An average commute is 17-19 depending on how recent a regen was.

For me, they would be a great second vehicle or daily driver. I'd still need my ICE truck for long hauls. Weird comparison, here SXS and UTV's can be driven on the road, what I've seen, their price point is generally higher than this vehicle. While one is strictly intended for recreation the other is more useful. Another comparison, is where these land in the greater vehicle market, a decent used mid-size truck like a Colorado is a likely competitor, or even the smaller Maverick. So, for 20K what am I wasting my money on? I'd rather have an older K5.

You will probably need more drive cycles for the system to run its own tests. I don't know how many or how far they may be though. Resetting the computer or clearing codes may restart the drive cycle counter too, so beware of being tempted to do that to speed up the process.

How accurate is the pump? How much actual fuel is in the tank before the pump was triggered off by air/fuel/bubbles/turbulence in the filler neck? Even if you use the same pump at every fill up, it could still sway the average to be off by the pump's calibration. Bottom line, the volume in the tank is not known (exactly) the volume added to the tank is not known (exactly). Further, how is idle time captured, fuel is being lost but the miles aren't increasing? A bunch of idling would show a lower MPG than what the vehicle achieves going down the road.

Exactly.

Yes. Yes. We might be intermingling ideas with the term 'severity', in one of my past vehicles it could pull up DTC via the vehicles own user interface, at any given time when one would do this there would be an assortment of codes that were 'trivial' including 'communication' issues. This would generate a bunch of, potentially false alerts or some many that they would get ignored. Which you mentioned earlier. You also mention several things that might be redundant with the vehicles own systems or indicators: The truck has an oil pressure gauge, monitoring it via this other system wouldn't be a priority except in comparison to other values or if there is an actual oil pressure problem. Same thing for miss-fires or other problems, the MIL already signals the operator to an issue... ...to the point about what one wants to see first, if there is a miss fire detected, I want to see miss fire counts or fuel trims first, if I have an oil pressure problem I want to see the oil pressure first. So, perhaps the 'systems' that are showing abnormalities are what gets displayed first. I think your device is what connects at the OBD port, ease of use for the consumer, it could still have a 'pass-through' port for a second scanner, computer, etc. Yes. Based on my comment above, if an error appears, the report would be more specific to the system having an error.