asilverblazer

I'm curious why water temperature DOESN'T control oil temperature, alternatively, what IS the driving factor of oil temperature? Ambient I understand from a starting temperature, but I would expect that to have less effect over operating (run) time. (Ignoring any eternal oil coolers) RPM makes sense, as "work" being put into the oil, friction the oil is experiencing and the result is heat. I have mixed opinions for 'load': The only effect load should have is that it takes more fuel and air to move the piston the same amount. I guess given that, then the increased air and fuel makes a bigger combustion, resulting in more heat. Though I don't see that directly effecting the oil temperature any more than it effects water temperature (by appearances, it effects water temperature so indirectly - literally by the warming the metal around the water jackets - that I've never seen water temperature spikes on the gauge, regardless of load, rpm ambient or any combination of). Other thoughts, the volume of water in the cooling system is different/larger. The cooling system and oiling system serve fundamentally different purposes... BUT! What if the oiling system served the purpose of the cooling system? With a few adjustments, larger capacity/flow to control the effect of 'spikes in load/rpm'. Presumably then being able to eliminate an entire sub system in the vehicle (cooling) and accomplishing it with a more robust oil cooling system.

This was easier for me than fixing the original.

I had put new plug wires on one time and one of them was bad out of the box. Careful throwing parts at it, just more variables that could complicate matters. As noted above, try to pinpoint a specific cylinder.

Every tire I've tried other than BFG All-Terrain has been a let down at best and disaster at worst. Actually, every tire other than BFG has been that way. I know they (BFG) are owned by Michelin - but every Michelin tire I've had has been a disaster of one form or other. I won't buy them and tell everyone I know the same.

Need to confirm spark first. Spark test lights aren't that hard to come by. Alternatively, pull a plug wire at night - you should see spark coming off it. Once spark is confirmed - check fuel pressure. Without a significant obvious failure, I doubt timing.

Yep, that belt was wore out. Not sure what to be ashamed about.

THE ECM should be CUTTING fuel to resolve the P0152 and P2099, those are RICH conditions. Although the P0152 isn't exactly a 'rich' condition, it's an unexpectedly high voltage. That makes me think the P0152 (and P2099) isn't necessarily an actual rich condition, rather a faulty pre-cat sensor reading too high. The previous, code of P0152 means the ECM saw a voltage coming from the pre-cat O2 sensor that wasn't just high as in rich, it was so high that it was "circuit high voltage" - or outside the expected range. The ECM is now seeing a low(er) voltage from that same sensor (P0174), a lean condition in combination with the post-cat sensor reading rich (P2099). Those two codes can't really exist together, the bank is either rich or lean - not both. So which Bank 2 sensor do you believe? The key here I think is the P0152, the pre-cat sensor is doing things it shouldn't, so I don't trust the P0174. Given that the two O2 sensors are disagreeing with each other, I am inclined to say the problem lies with one of them.

Year, make, model, engine, drivetrain, mileage, etc? It's an interesting combination of codes though. P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit, range/performance P0152 O2 sensor circuit high voltage, bank 2 sensor 1 P0300 detected random or multiple cylinder misfires P2099 post catalyst fuel trim system on bank 2 is reading as too rich P0174 lean condition on Bank 2 Based on the total collection of codes, I would inspect the Bank 2 (passenger side), sensor 1 (pre-cat) O2 sensor, and wiring. It seems the sensor is messing up and producing abnormal readings (P0152, P2099, P0174), leading to possible miss fires (P0300).

Need to carefully examine the wiring on bank 1, drivers side, you might have damaged something, knocked something loose, etc. Specifically, look at/follow wires for the cylinder 1 coil and cylinder 5 fuel injector. Maybe the harness got pinched or crushed during the oil pressure sensor replacement, or by the tool. Its tricky to get back there and see what you're doing. Possible rodent damage too.

No. You do not have a factory amplifier.

Without doing a deep dive on it... Unmetered air is entering the engine thus the lean codes. The fuel tank pressure sensor is having trouble zeroing. Air from the fuel tank is making its way into the engine, whether the tank is building pressure and air is pushing its way into the engine or is being pulled in via vacuum. Inspect the valves/solenoids that control this air flow from the vapor canister to the engine. Something isn't shutting off the air flow.

I like it. I wonder though - if you backed into something that would warrant the need for this. Instead of smashing the plain cover and maybe damaging replaceable parts inside the diff if it might blow out some of the mounting holes cast in the main housing requiring an axle housing replacement... Not a criticism, just thinking out loud. I saw someone who had a grill guard hit a bollard in a parking lot. Ruined the grill guard and bent up the bumper. If the grill guard wasn't there the damage to the bumper would have been similar and might have also included the grill. Probably ended up costing more to buy the grill guard twice, plus the bumper rather than the bumper once and a new grill.

I'm not a fan in general, what is the purpose? I could understand a branded performance caliper being a specific color, not painting one for the sake of... I am much more critical of whether or not they are clean.

What size trailer? Sure sounds like something else might have been amiss, the braking system should have been more than capable.

There is a right answer and a wrong answer. Look how tall the trailer is, and make it another 7" taller. Think how high the center of gravity already is on the trailer and how much higher it will become. Then imagine an evasive manuever. For stability, lower is always better and anything else is a compromise to stability.

Seems the boys were a little too prepared. I can't imagine what size/weight boy scout trailer would have caused a braking problem.

I hope he has fixed it over the last 10 years.

I'd put the factory BCM back in. Conduct further careful tests - BCM's don't just go bad or fail. Given the assortment of lighting issues, I suspect, corrosion in a connector somewhere or somewhere in the wiring harness. First place I would look is the under hood electrical center on the drivers fender. Check the underside of it. Also, be on the lookout for rodent damage. Lastly, using a wiring diagram - you might try unplugging the 'outputs' of the BCM and probing the BCM to see if it is out putting signals where/when it should.

Assuming the truck is lowered using an aftermarket knuckle, the knuckle may not be compatible with a factory (normal) ball joint - try contacting the kit manufacturer to see what ball joint is recommend with their knuckle. Try tightening the nut all the way down to pull the stud as deep into the taper as possible, then the pin. Make sure the stud and taper are both clean with no debris or rust preventing the stud from fully seating. The replacement ball joint may not be built to factory spec - try an AC/Delco one.

Possibly the under hood temperature is lowering when traveling down the road allowing it to freeze up. Pressure switch should cut if off first...

Let's see if it IS how it works!

There is not a specific running/tail light for the passenger side. The only light specific to a side is turn signal (technically this includes brake lights too). When you say that you are getting 12v at the truck plug 100% of the time, I'm assuming that you are probing the pin labeled "Right Turn". The only circuit that carries 12v to the trailer is the auxiliary power circuit used to charge trailer 'house' batteries or break away back-up batteries. It sounds like this circuit is somehow powering the right turn pin - whether by intention (maybe a previous owner changed the truck for some reason?) or by mistake. Long story truck I would first confirm that all circuits going to the trailer plug are in the correct spot. gmupfitter.org will have wiring diagram and colors for the truck you can use to confirm.

I think we've come to see that EVERYONE miss-judged the market. Are there any main stream EV's doing well? Wonder how that Cadillac Celestiq Hail Mary (figuratively and literally) is doing?

Well, it probably is at this point in its life. I've been saying this for a while now - very rarely is a person's first impression with a manufacturer based off their new vehicles. Here we have GM's cheapest, built to a price point vehicle that is now 10-years-old, (literally no telling how many miles), with unknown care and maintenance, that the current owner is writing off a NEW GM vehicle based on their experience with this USED one that is arguably WELL past its life expectancy. What could GM have done better to make sure these types of buyers/owners have better experiences and more likely to consider them for a NEW vehicle? My suggestions: I would typically first suggest that all vehicles have an engineered life span (a minimum - not to be confused with designed to fail) 10 years, 200,000 miles. At which point the vehicle is at risk of becoming mechanically totaled, where the repair cost exceeds the value. I imagine the vehicle mentioned here is already at that point. Second, dealer service writers - guarantee diagnosis. If I bring my GM product in for a repair, guarantee your diagnosis will fix the problem I am presenting with. If it doesn't, cash credit to new vehicle purchase at ANY GM dealer. The GM dealers are GM's lifeline to getting and keeping customers, yet how often are customers treated like a one-time opportunity to fleece for as much as possible. Can you imagine taking the above car in to have fixed? What would the total be? You'd get a list a mile long of trivial unnecessary items, in addition to legitimate repairs that might actually fix the car. Too bad ALL of those are over-priced. What does the GM customer do? Leave. If GM (dealer) presented realistic needs, to repair the vehicle, at realistic prices, they are still in the game AND still have the potential future customer. If that repair cost is still too high... mechanically totaled, vehicle literally at the end of its life. Guarantee trade in value, owner loyalty, residual value, etc. I bring a used GM vehicle in for trade, guarantee an amount ($$$) towards new GM vehicle. If this amount benefits me more than any other solution (selling the vehicle privately, scrapping it, trading it in at another manufacturer), it contributes to brand loyalty and NEW car sales. This program grows sales exponentially, consider the alternative losing sales, as seen here. Only 1 of these solutions GM has actual control of, and in this case may have actually succeeded. The other two GM has relegated to third parties (why would any company give it's direct connection to customers away is beyond stupid) and is why the Dealer model lost relevance decades ago, because no dealer is going to participate in the last two options.

They are metric - should be a 19mm.