asilverblazer

Those are your ONLY options at GMC, Chevrolet and Buick - well, depends on what you define as SUV or CUV. The Traverse is essentially a minivan wearing an SUV costume, lower roofline, higher floor, upright grille and flat hood. Looks like a Tahoe performs like an Impala.

Mediocre, how much did they lose on the poorly conceived EV strategy? I wonder how much the stock price is being 'inflated' by all the buy-backs? Cadillac literally looks like a brand without a rudder, no clear goals or product direction - performance or luxury? I guess performance because we can throw a small block in whatever we can and call it a day. Certainly not luxury when a Denali or High Country is reasonably cross shoppable. The Celestiq - no way - no vehicle can command quarter million prices when something wearing the same badge is on the buy here pay here lot across town. Notice the 'base' Escalade doesn't even come with the 'leather-appointed' seating surfaces. Hummer EV - fail Silverado EV - fail Sierra EV - fail Bolt/Volt EV (The most successful EV cancelled, restarted, cancelled, whatever its current status it) Hybrids - none Sedans - none Medium duty - not anymore Minivan - none Coupe - none Convertible - none CUVs - 20+/- 6.2 Recall that landed squarely on the GMs highest seller - and specifically the fattest margin higher trims of the Yukon, Escalade, et. al. The most critical product line they fumbled big time. In the Escalade segment, are those buyers forgiving GM for a bad engine and patiently waiting for the fixes and dealing with the headaches? Nope, they dump them and go straight to the other premium brands. In the ENTIRE GM portfolio how many aspirational vehicles are there? Corvette, Escalade (quickly being superseded by the obvious better value Denali)... I posted somewhere else... what if Cadillac left the luxury game and became a performance brand similar to AMG or (gasp) Ferrari? Cut all the entry-level and base models from their line up and focus on the V-series or Blackwing or whatever they call it now. Of course, those would have the pre-requisite luxury and technology as standard equipment. This opens the floor for Buick to step in/up as the luxury brand (like they are in China), no 'performance pretenses' get rid of the 'entry-level' models with equally 'entry-level' power trains and become the Maybach to Cadillacs AMG. With those two brands effectively out of the way Chevrolet, the 'entry-level' brand has the floor to itself and GMC can take over as 'professional grade'. Now each brand has a focus, no in-fighting, clear direction, and customer targets. Just need to sneakily slide Corvette into the Cadillac brand and dump the vestigial script writing.

There is a big difference in motorcycles and vehicles - nobody needs a motorcycle, they WANT one. That WANT is the most powerful force to drive price upwards. I've hated every iteration of the Equinox, a prime example of GM laziness. It excelled at absolutely nothing, barely competitive by every metric. At least the latest generation looks decent. I want to like the Buick Envista, but that pitiful engine plus FWD only is a BIG NO for me, I don't care how good it looks.

I haven't seen inventory recovery from COVID. In the few random times I 'build my own' truck or SUV, no one has the exact one I want. GM has been working to lower incentives too for a long time. A $500 incentive isn't getting me off the couch to go truck shopping.

I read they were supposedly going for a retro look...

A running 4x4 here starts at 5K on Facebook. Off topic, Facebook and Craigslist here have been poisoned with ridiculous asking prices and no low-ballers junk sellers.

Move further away. Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time. Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?

Wonder what happened to the "MEGA"max 8.3 rumors. I haven't had any rust issues, but the wax sure is ugly. Good to hear, considering the joint venture with International ended.

Long story short I ended up with a set of Ironman tires because of a wheel size change on our Yukon Denali - I intended for them to be temporary (no more than 12 months) until I put the tires I wanted to on it, a premium A/T. However, they've been great, quiet, no traction issues, wearing even and very cheap here. They could use a better balance job from a slight vibration at 85 or higher. But so far, I've completely abandoned my original intention to not keep them. I won't go so far as to say I'd immediately buy them again for a permanent long-term solution but if my experience continues like it has with them, I could come to that conclusion. I was also told they are made by Cooper, don't know for sure though. For your purposes on the little truck you're working with, I'd highly recommend them.

I like the idea. I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.

Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.

Maybe. Maybe. I don't want to be the one that needs help and can't get it when I need it. That is a legitimate complaint, and how they respond to those legitimate complaints is a big red flag to me. I don't care how good the product is their conduct is subpar. Some people are fine supporting that for the sake of getting the product they want. I'm not. To be fair, I haven't seen or touched their product in person to determine for myself the quality of it. I'm not offering any opinion on that either.

Can you monitor vacuum/MAP readings? Particularly, during EGR activation? Can you bench test/check the EGR valve operation? Presumably the MAP sensor is OK. No other vacuum leaks, masking the correct operation of the EGR? Cats may be fried, but I don't think they are going to change your diagnosis of EGR operation.

Maybe, finding a wiring problem will either be real easy or real hard.

Focus only on the recurring problem. Don't go looking for more. If the recurring problem is the EGR code; fix that. Ignore data that is irrelevant to diagnosing that ONE issue. It doesn't matter what the O2 sensors are reading or the timing is doing (yet) until the recurring problem is resolved. (If the diagnosis of the EGR requires O2 readings or timing advance readings then obviously use them.) FWIW: I remember watching the timing advance on my 07 Silverado, and those numbers sound similar to what I recall.

Not sure how many wires you've got to play with BUT if there is constant power AND ground at the EGR how is it switching? In other words, the grounding via the PCM to activate it makes sense to me.

Right?! Could you swap out the lights to an older style? Did they say what circuit it had to detect resistance on? It shouldn't be the running lights because those aren't on all the time, it could be the brake/turn signal circuit(s), but it seems that there might be a scenario where I would want the trailer brakes at the same time as when those lights first illuminate to recognize the trailer in the first place. If it's the 12v +, to charge trailer batteries, maybe adding a battery backup break away to the trailer would resolve the issue.

I'm inclined to say that someone set on an EV isn't looking for a 'truck'. A key defining capability for 'truck' being towing capacity, an EV simply can't tow FAR ENOUGH to matter. That means the market for the open bed of the Slate (its only other truck characteristic) is similar to the Santa Cruz, Ridegline or Maverick - very limited, due to size; it won't fit larger building materials, furniture, dirt bikes, etc. It might fit a lawnmower or bags of mulch 'suburban' type uses. Comparing the Slate again to the Ridgeline, Maverick and Santa Cruz, those have backseats + the open bed. A person's needs would have to be VERY limited to warrant the Slate truck. All said with the caveat that I don't know how permanent the two Slate configurations are, could I buy both configuration sets and swap between them? My recollection seemed to be that it is possible - whether or not its practical.

Isn't that some clever marketing, make us like the cheaper option so much we pay more for it!

My truck is diesel, L5P.

I pulled mine last night, it was crusty like all the ones on the internet. I cleaned it off and put it back on. It made a difference in drivability - truck seems to have a bit more pep to it. Milage is showing preliminarily a boost too of about 1-2 mpg. I'm going to start checking it each oil change.

I pulled mine last night at my latest oil change. It has at least 90K mile on it since its seen daylight. It looked about like the photo above. I knocked the loose stuff off, shot it with some cleaner, hit it with compressed air and put it back. I'll be danged if the truck doesn't seem to be a little lighter on its feet today. With a bit better milage too. Guess I'll be more regular about cleaning it.

Update to my experience, my truck was due an oil change per the GM OLM, right at max mileage around 7500 miles. As I've stated, the dipstick doesn't appear show a tremendous drop in oil volume over the course of a change, that needs some correction. Just prior to pulling the drain plug I noted the level on the dipstick. It was about 2/3-5/8 down on the acceptable range, not 3/4 but more than 1/2 way down. After refilling with the full 10 quarts, the dipstick measured at the top of the acceptable range - full. After noting these two dipstick readings at each end of the oil change interval spectrum, I might notice the gradual drop on the dipstick more easily during regular checks. I measured the drained volume of oil and what came out of the drain pan was about 8 1/2 quarts. To be below the add mark on the dipstick it would have to be about 2 quarts below the full 10 quarts.

The one I used between 5-10 years ago could report enhanced data. Yes I'm not sure; but it seems you've mentioned/alluded to these a bunch so I'm presuming you think these are going to be valuable, my opinion is I'd bet these won't be as useful as you think they will - UNLESS - they correspond to some other event.