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asilverblazer

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Everything posted by asilverblazer

  1. asilverblazer
    The interior - I don't like what appears to be two screens so close together, I would prefer it to be one larger clean design, similar to some Buicks.
  2. asilverblazer
    Was it illegal? This is why removing the vehicles means of communicating makes sense. The challenge for me would be to find who all I have business with that might have data that I didn't give them permission to have, like my insurer, would they ever admit to having the data, using it, using it adversely against me? Further, what other companies that I don't yet have a relationship with but might in the future? Further still, it's not like this information is remotely secure in the first place, at least once a week it seems I get notice of some 'data breach' that compromised my information... I have free identity theft monitoring offers for decades because of this. The indiscriminate gobbling up of data, to sell to other entities is egregious. During a recent loan application experience, the lender expected me to sign a document acknowledging I have an alias (I don't) it was an obvious case of 'junk data' that 'came up in their report'. Nope, I'm not signing it, have your 'data provider' attest to their information, they collected it (poorly), sold it and the lender paid for it. Then it becomes MY responsibility to correct this mess? Nope, not doing that either.
  3. asilverblazer
    Am I understanding this correctly that you were working on the wrong cylinder and the second person worked on the correct one? Meaning, you never swapped the #8 components in the first place? In which case, I retract my previous post, and it very well could be just the one bad plug at cylinder 8 (the right one). Again, not trying to rub it in, just understand the process.
  4. asilverblazer
    From this, the problem was located at cylinder 8, the only component that moved cylinders was the plug. From the original post, the wire at cylinder 8 doesn't appear to have moved locations. The second post indicates maybe the wires were moved from cylinder to cylinder? I don't see any indication of how many times the wire at cylinder 8 was 'manipulated'. If there was some corrosion on the wire, it might have needed some cleaning on the terminal that was accomplished by scraping it off during the removal-reinstallation. I'm not arguing, but like you, I suspect the 'real' culprit may not be the plug and the condition may return. See post below, after reading the latest update.
  5. asilverblazer
    Maybe the wire wasn't on good, good be the terminal in the wire is loose. Maybe there was "enough" build up on the threads the plug wasn't grounding well. Without more information how you came to the conclusion - I'd bet the wire wasn't as good as you say.
  6. asilverblazer
    I've broken tools, I've had tools go bad. I view most hand tools as disposable, they get lost, they get damaged, they get modified (I have been known to cut/weld sockets together to get a drive size or depth I need). It seems like I also collect hand tools too, they seem to appear without me specifically buying them. I don't want to stress about losing a 'nice' tool. Tools that have failed that annoy me, belt sander, battery drill, table saw, router - some were nicer brands, some weren't. They all burnt up under normal use. On one hand, glad I didn't pay 'too' much for them. I would like to have a nice big matching set of tools, wrenches, sockets, ratchets, but like noted above, I don't think I'll benefit from the cost, don't want to 'worry' about them, I have plenty already. To that end, Harbor Freight has plenty of stuff that fits the bill. I would NOT recommend them for more expensive/investment items.
  7. asilverblazer
    And we wonder why people post looking for the "onstar" fuse. The first hint of an installed feature becoming a subscription or any identifiable drive data being shared... I'll be pulling that fuse, pulling an antenna, removing a module, cutting a wire too.
  8. asilverblazer
    You think your truck has an aftermarket one? You KNOW your truck has one? Most use the cigarette lighter or other always on fuse. Look near the cigarette lighter/auxiliary power port and the OBDII connector for starters.
  9. asilverblazer
    That's capitalism, good luck getting out of that one. Sure they were, it's just that they are getting better at the game.
  10. asilverblazer
    The cynic in me agrees, and there are people who wouldn't buy a new truck so long as the old one still works. I don't think that is the majority anymore though, most people buy a new truck when they WANT to, not when necessarily when they NEED to. How does a manufacturer get the NEW buyer though? Some only buy based on the style, the price, the specs, etc. and these buyers might be 'conquest' buyers. In the truck world though it is massively brand loyal, meaning if my first truck is a Chevrolet and I have a good experience with it, I'm likely to buy another. Key point is that my FIRST Chevrolet likely isn't a NEW Chevrolet. Its used with miles on it - THAT is where a manufacturers incentive to make a long-lasting vehicle is. GM is so focused on selling NEW vehicles they ignore the experience of the people buying their used vehicles. Which is foolish, because these are the people that will either become the next NEW buyer, or swear off GM forever. There are very few DESIRABLE/ASPIRATIONAL GM vehicles, Corvette, Escalade... nobody stays up at night wishing they had a brand-new Equinox. Why? It excels at nothing mediocre in every respect. So then, who goes and buys a NEW one? The person who had one before and had a good experience with it.
  11. asilverblazer
    If I was going older - any pre AFM (2007 1/2 ton) would be my go-to. 5.3, with the 4L60E = easy 200K powertrain if not 300K, just there won't be much truck left around it.
  12. asilverblazer
    To be clear - no more rear Mag shocks with the integral air bag on them in the rear?
  13. asilverblazer
    In the last 40 years, up until the last week, exactly 0 starter failures in my fleet, and ALL my family and friends fleet. Last week, the starter failed in my Dad's 2015 GMC Sierra that I bought new and sold him, has roughly 85k on the odometer. I was convinced it was a bad ground, because I HAVE had that happen once on another vehicle, only found out it wasn't the starter when the new one exhibited the exact same symptoms. In short, try a better brand starter.
  14. asilverblazer
    Noted, I'll give you a refund for the opinion for exactly what you paid for it. Admittedly, I didn't spell out all my experiences and related only my most recent example with the 2016. Best of luck.
  15. asilverblazer
    My 2018 3500 Z71 had a metal skid plate on the bottom of the oil pan and a plastic splash shield from the engine cross member (front of the bottom metal skid plate) up to the cross member below/under the radiator, this plastic piece was cracked at the top mounting points. What I bought replaced both of those pieces with metal.
  16. asilverblazer
    Amazon.com: KUAFU Front Differential Skid Plate Compatible with 2011-2019 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra 2500 3500 HD Suspension Skid Plate Heavy Duty Steel Powder Coated Black : Automotive
  17. asilverblazer
    I bought a set off Amazon, they were metal and about $100.00 for the oil pan (bottom piece) and splash shield (front piece).
  18. asilverblazer
    Who is diagnosing and who is replacing parts? Start with a subscription to Alldatadiy, and follow the diagnostic for the P0010 and P0011. (Any parts replaced that are not part of that diagnostic tree were done for no reason. Get mad at whomever was the answer to the above.) This may lead you to where newdude is with the cam shaft. You have had the truck 1 year, so historical maintenance is unknown. Generally, the 6.0 is a reliable engine but in your case, it is 10 years old with unknown miles. Further assumptions might be that a Denali is/was not a cheap truck and previous owners would have been inclined to maintain it properly. I tend to think that a significant mechanical issue would manifest itself in other ways beyond a check engine light. Based on all the above factors, my first inclination is not major mechanical problem that warrants a new engine or tear down. Carefully follow the bold portion above.
  19. asilverblazer
    Probably not as big a deal as being made out. If I wanted to do this, I'd, start with a used axle then throw a flatbed on it and roll. Next, you'll probably want to think about spare tire/wheel...
  20. asilverblazer
    Preface: the following is a personal opinion and not a personal attack. Something that I am against: You plan on keeping it forever, but don't plan on keeping all the 'features' forever. Removing the Magnaride to me is disabling a feature that you paid for - one way or another - would you likewise disable the A/C, power windows, radio, etc. because the fix was too expensive? Yes, the parts are costly, but careful research on the specific parts you buy may net you a Magnaride strut that has a lifetime warranty. Specifically, on my 2016 Denali, those come with a lifetime warranty (plus 2 years labor at a gm dealer). Further, when you do sell it there is a chance the price could be affected by the "boot-leg" repair - not a big factor in your case. There is also a noticeable difference in handling between a passive shock and the Magnaride, especially in 'extreme' or 'evasive' maneuvers. Experiencing this once is enough to convince you they are well worth the price. Not meant to be an insulting post, plenty of people have done what you are planning. But consider that at some point you bought premium features for a reason and price, if you didn't plan to maintain that premium, why buy it in the first place? You could have bought a 'base' or lesser model and saved money on purchase and maintenance. Example: we know there aren't many features that make a Denali different from any other GM SUV, if I start scrapping those, all I have is a badge - I suppose that is worth something to some people (ones, I don't care for). It's your truck but my opinion is don't do it a disservice.
  21. asilverblazer
    Gale Banks has plenty of air filter thoughts too, regarding the "cold air intake" / filter on a stick things. At least he shows data/testing for his stuff.
  22. asilverblazer
    Year? Model? Engine? Mileage? Every engine uses oil (I measure what comes out of the pan at every change on every vehicle - every one of them is usually a quart less than what goes back in. Nissan, Ford, Honda, Chevrolet, Mercedes Benz, turbo, N/A, supercharged, direct injected, carbureted, 3,000 miles 300,000 miles.) 3 quarts a month seems excessive - how many miles are you driving in that three months?
  23. asilverblazer
    It's probably been close to 20 years ago but I recall a study comparing air filters that included numerous types/brands of air filters, notably an AC/Delco and a reusable filter could have been a K&N but can't swear to it. Long story short, the AC/Delco flowed as well as the re-usable and filtered WAY better. I've been using them ever since.
  24. asilverblazer
    I would try having the rear spring pack re-arched to your satisfaction.
  25. asilverblazer
    Can you get a 2025 with coil springs and the rear air helpers still? Option 1: Coil springs at all 4 corners. Option 2: Coil springs at all 4 corners with helper air springs on the shocks. Option 3: Air bags/springs at all 4 corners. If option 2 is even a thing, its function will be different from option 3. As noted, setting up a WDH with automatic load leveling (option 2 and likely part of option 3) is tricky where you have to follow recommended set up practices from the owners manual of both the truck and the hitch - which could be contradictory. In either case some time spent at a truck scale carefully measuring where and how much weight is being transferred is critical. The goal is getting the weight distributed properly regardless of any 'level' or 'sag' condition. This can be confusing because as the truck tries to 'level' itself it will alter the weight distribution.

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