asilverblazer

My point was pulling a heavy load in of itself isn't nearly as difficult as a large enclosed or travel trailer. Most I've had on a half ton was 8.5k on the axles of a 27' travel trailer, 4k on the truck rear axle, 3.5k on the front axle, GCW was 16k, it was 500 overweight on the rear axle, a smidge over GVWR, 1k over GCWR. Curb weight of the truck unhooked was a little under 7k, right at 1k of available rear axle capacity. Weight distribution, sway control and trailer brakes it was manageable, but listening to the motor turn over 3k rpms all the time got tiresome. At that time, the highest rated half ton GM had a GVWR of 17.7k with a maximum trailer weight of 12k.

I had to replace the sensor twice. Somewhere I recall you can blow out the port it screws in to, I don't remember if it goes to the oil pan or filter, and if the filter had to be off...

There is a HUGE difference between a 20' 5000 lb travel trailer and a 20' utility trailer hauling 10000 lbs of steel plate.

I would agree that the buildup I've seen on them and what I expect to be on mine are concerning. I'm sure at some point I will pull it and clean it. Depending on those results will determine if I do anything different in the future. Mine 'should' be 'bad' enough that if there are benefits to cleaning it they will be readily apparent.

Mine has at least 80000 miles on its sensor. Never even looked at it. Service information claims the coating of soot doesn't alter its performance and my experience tends to agree.

Obviously, no relation to the historical engine... ...or any other displacement similarities. Not likely, but given the 'current' regulatory environment I wonder about the take rate of a 'simple' V8 engine that removes some of the more problematic features. More comparable with an early 2000's LS, no displacement on demand, no variable water pumps, no variable valve timing, no direct injection. Somewhere around 6 liters, with 400hp, 450ft-lbs. Keep the 10-speed auto and see what kind of mileage it gets.

Some updates: This is kind of resolved with the latest Apple update that has CARPLAY widgets, I can show apps/content/info that I prefer as a home screen. "Now playing", weather, etc. I contacted the seller and after a software update, I now have steering wheel controls that behave as expected. Any other issues and nitpicks I have gotten used to or are not important enough to warrant messing with. I stay in CARPLAY all the time, so any Android or launcher issues are not important. The only other item I see is the graphic of a car that I would prefer more to resemble the truck. So far, the product has been performing reliably since installation.

The only "brand" tire I've had consistent, reliable, long life, good tread wear, good balancing, no punctures, no blow-outs, no road hazards, good traction - have all been BFGoodrich. All Terrain TA KO (2 sets) All Terrain TA KO2 (2 sets) Advantage TA (4 sets) Long Trail TA (3 sets) Trail Terrain TA (1 set) Every other brand has had one issue or another. Michelin - wouldn't stand behind warranty (3 sets) Pirelli - couldn't survive my gravel driveway (1 set) General - couldn't keep air in them for all the punctures and poor tread wear (1 set) Goodyear - mediocre performance by every metric (2 sets) Continental - mediocre performance (1 set) Bridgestone - mediocre performance, the only other brand I've had that I would re-consider (1 set) Observations All the Nitto tires I see have weird tread wear on them As already noted, no telling who owns what anymore, or if it even matters. Who did the R&D, who specified the compounds, who manufactured it, what warranty does it come with, what price point, dealer, and the list goes on... All to get to my point, which is, internet recommendations I think are pretty worthless. I am going to buy what I've had good success with and will have to have a very compelling reason to switch. For example, on our Yukon Denali, we had to make some rush decisions on tires due to some other circumstances that included a wheel size change. The tires I WANTED were no longer in production (KO2) and the KO3 was REALLY expensive with a long lead time. Ended up with a set of Ironman something or others - supposedly made by Cooper. They were a fraction of the cost, and I haven't had any major complaints given they were $700.00 for all four. (They have a slight vibration at high speeds 85+)

Re-read the 10-year-old thread. It will run the same. You will have to get a custom tune to solve the check engine light.

I decided against this. Making the pedal react faster seemed like a gimmick to make the truck feel or seem more responsive. If I need more of that I can do the same myself by pushing the pedal more (with my extra fat wallet). On a similar note: my truck feels like it already has an extra aggressive pedal, when cruising going from no pedal to the slightest touch, there is a definite on vs off feel. It's really annoying in traffic.

That's several more variables: (The new parts might not have the right components in them) Correct spring rate? Correct jounce bumper? Tires will have an impact on the ride, I don't think they should be that bad though. Were the upper control arms torqued correctly? I too question the rear shock settings. If the rear blocks were removed, it could be bottoming out in the rear on the factory bump stops. Hopefully it has been aligned after this work -results or comments from the shop?

Were the struts 'loaded' or did you reuse your factory springs and jounce bumpers?

I live in a rural area where many of the intersections are un-lit. I find myself many times struggling to get a good idea of what the road looks to the side where I am steering towards/onto. Many of you likely are aware of a feature on many older luxury cars like Cadillac and Lincoln where when you activate the turn signal a small light comes on on that side to illuminate the area adjacent to the vehicle. I replicated this on my truck using some small off road lights mounted at the A-pillar near the hood hinge, this is a popular location for off-road lights or ditch lights. I used the turn signal wires going to the BCM from the signal stalk, when activated they provide a ground to the BCM which then pulses the appropriate light circuits. I used that same ground signal to trigger a relay to power each respective light. Left signal turns the left light on and same for the right while avoiding the pulsing of the actual turn signal circuit. There are plenty of aftermarket mounts, but I was able to use an existing hole at the top of the fender. If you pull the plastic cover off where the antennae mounts you will find the same hole on the back side of the fender, directly behind the antennae post. A u-nut, small metal bracket to attach the light to was all that was necessary. The lights function well for my purposes, work well. If/when I do add some proper off-road lights I would likely mount them on the front of the truck vs. where these are mounted because my truck is white and the glare reflection off the hood would be problematic to use as an additional high beam location.

Too much for which part? Simple answer, no, so long as you can correct the electronics so that everything works and you understand the new physics of a faster spinning driveshaft. Was there a specific symptom that you noticed? All correct, but the computer doesn't specifically monitor or care what the driveshaft RPM is beyond a speed signal so that the truck knows what to put on the speedometer. This RPM, mph, speed signa, etc. is totally outside of an actual MPH/RPM spin physical limit of the mechanical components. No 'in line tuner' will ever change the physics of a new gear set. The driveshaft, and everything else up stream of the differential, the engine and transmission are turning faster at any given speed than they were before the gear swap. The physical limits of these rotational forces are just that - physical limits. No electronic wizardry will fix that. Again, the internet claims that higher rotational speed of the driveshaft is a potential for failure. I've seen references of give or take around 120mph WITH THE ORIGINAL GEAR SET. The speed (mph) you should be concerned with driveshaft failure is now lower, how much is unknown, because there isn't a specific number that the driveshaft would fail at before. This is all internet rumor with anecdotal reports. The truck gets signals from wheel speed sensors and vehicle speed sensors (at a minimum). Presumably, the in line tuner corrects one of those so that the speedometer reads correctly. The software might allow a degree of difference between all the speed signals before it says one of these is wrong and starts causing problems. A full tune could correct ALL signals.

And to clarify - changing the gear set will relieve that additional strain on the transmission... ...beware that doing so will cause the driveshaft to be turning faster; and the internet says there is a risk of gernading it at higher rotational speeds.

I saw the news on that and was thoroughly insulted at the marketing speak garbage they spewed out on it. We ALL know how much Allisons involvement in the 10L1000 was and we ALL know how superficial the emblem was/is. The marketing guys are convinced that the emblem being returned will make us more confident and rely more on our trucks because of it. We KNOW IT IS NOT AN ALLISON transmission and the emblem wasn't fooling anyone, when it was there the first time, when it got removed, and now that its back. The curious aspect I want to know is - how many more trucks is that little emblem going to sell? (Hint: the same amount as that goofy number on the back of the Cadillacs) 0.

I don't recall if the P0171 is bank specific - if it is, try swapping injector 7 with one from another bank and see if the lean condition and miss fire follows injector 7 to the other bank/cylinder. I'd focus on injectors, maybe clean mass air flow sensor to make sure its not reading lazy.

Just did the Yukon 8 speed. Wish I had a better pump to empty the pan and replace fluid, it would have been less messy and hand pumping 7 or 8 quarts wasn't fun. I was able to drop the pan without loosening the exhaust, like on youtube, a pry bar to push it down helps. I replaced the filter because its a no brainer if you've got the pan down. I was in there replacing the transmission temperature sensor/harness. I also added a thermostat eliminator.

Probably won't help your specific question, but on my truck the factory one was gone (I bet I know why), so I put on a replacement. The internal clutch couldn't lift the tire without slipping. A second one the cable snapped and left my spare on the road. I ended up fabbing one out of boat trailer winch and loop a length of chain around the frame and through the wheel for safety.

This might negate the need of a secondary switch, if they ever got out of whack, turn the truck off and cycle the switch to turn off the light bar. I'm imagining a situation where you flip the switch and the latching relay doesn't catch for whatever reason, so that the high beams are on without the light bar. Then you flip the switch again and high beams go off but the relay DOES LATCH- ON, now high beams are off and the light bar is on, flipping the switch then just alternates them... until the relay doesn't catch again. I don't know how likely that scenario is.

What do you mean by not considering the cost of the truck and how does that alter the overall financial picture? Unless the truck is already paid for or has an unusually low payment the variables still don't swing in favor of a second car. Quantifying how much longer it would last is even murkier, you are saving miles off it, but not time, or depending on how its kept when not in use, weathering. Regarding the lower maintenance costs, again, it has to be next to nothing - in my math above 150 a year or less. You have to WANT a second car for reasons that COST more money. Making the truck last longer is a reason, but unless the car or truck are already owned or free, it won't save money. In the case of the OP the trucks considered are likely over 50K when does the additional cost of the second vehicle that presumably would have to be purchased too "lower the overall cost" of the truck begin to save money? My math above looks like years if not decades. I'm not arguing your opinion, just trying to understand how you make the financial part work.

I posted this a while back. Commuter cars don't make financial sense unless your circumstances put up some really crazy numbers to swing the figures in their favor.

I don't have experience with those - but energize trigger circuit momentarily to latch relay, then energize circuit momentarily again to unlatch should work. But can you imagine if the two functions ever got out of sync (for an unknown reason of unknown likely hood) where you flip the high beam stalk forward and end up toggling between the lightbar and high beams... a secondary momentary switch/button that disconnects the common ground path between the two functions while supplying an alternate separate ground to the lightbar (without sending that same ground to the BCM) to re-sync them might be something to include in the plan.

I installed some, my are used as cornering lights though. The left comes on with left turn signal and right with the right turn signal. Makes turning at dark intersections easier. I've considered alternate switching methods to use them in other conditions, but since they are literally shining in the ditches, I've found no other need for them.

On my 2018... If you tap the high beam circuit 524 between the signal stalk and the BCM and use that as a ground to trigger a relay to the lights everything should work fine. The stalk provides continuous ground to the BCM when pressed forward vs pulling back to momentarily flash high beams. The light bar will work if the high beam switch is pushed forward no matter what the other lights do (based on the BCM's control). If on a 2021 the 524 provides only a momentary ground to signal the BCM to continuously power the headlights until it receives another momentary ground to switch them off, then it won't work. In which case I would start looking for a low voltage controller of sorts that can use momentary signals to trigger constant outputs.