asilverblazer

To be clear - no more rear Mag shocks with the integral air bag on them in the rear?

In the last 40 years, up until the last week, exactly 0 starter failures in my fleet, and ALL my family and friends fleet. Last week, the starter failed in my Dad's 2015 GMC Sierra that I bought new and sold him, has roughly 85k on the odometer. I was convinced it was a bad ground, because I HAVE had that happen once on another vehicle, only found out it wasn't the starter when the new one exhibited the exact same symptoms. In short, try a better brand starter.

Noted, I'll give you a refund for the opinion for exactly what you paid for it. Admittedly, I didn't spell out all my experiences and related only my most recent example with the 2016. Best of luck.

My 2018 3500 Z71 had a metal skid plate on the bottom of the oil pan and a plastic splash shield from the engine cross member (front of the bottom metal skid plate) up to the cross member below/under the radiator, this plastic piece was cracked at the top mounting points. What I bought replaced both of those pieces with metal.

Amazon.com: KUAFU Front Differential Skid Plate Compatible with 2011-2019 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra 2500 3500 HD Suspension Skid Plate Heavy Duty Steel Powder Coated Black : Automotive

I bought a set off Amazon, they were metal and about $100.00 for the oil pan (bottom piece) and splash shield (front piece).

Who is diagnosing and who is replacing parts? Start with a subscription to Alldatadiy, and follow the diagnostic for the P0010 and P0011. (Any parts replaced that are not part of that diagnostic tree were done for no reason. Get mad at whomever was the answer to the above.) This may lead you to where newdude is with the cam shaft. You have had the truck 1 year, so historical maintenance is unknown. Generally, the 6.0 is a reliable engine but in your case, it is 10 years old with unknown miles. Further assumptions might be that a Denali is/was not a cheap truck and previous owners would have been inclined to maintain it properly. I tend to think that a significant mechanical issue would manifest itself in other ways beyond a check engine light. Based on all the above factors, my first inclination is not major mechanical problem that warrants a new engine or tear down. Carefully follow the bold portion above.

Probably not as big a deal as being made out. If I wanted to do this, I'd, start with a used axle then throw a flatbed on it and roll. Next, you'll probably want to think about spare tire/wheel...

Preface: the following is a personal opinion and not a personal attack. Something that I am against: You plan on keeping it forever, but don't plan on keeping all the 'features' forever. Removing the Magnaride to me is disabling a feature that you paid for - one way or another - would you likewise disable the A/C, power windows, radio, etc. because the fix was too expensive? Yes, the parts are costly, but careful research on the specific parts you buy may net you a Magnaride strut that has a lifetime warranty. Specifically, on my 2016 Denali, those come with a lifetime warranty (plus 2 years labor at a gm dealer). Further, when you do sell it there is a chance the price could be affected by the "boot-leg" repair - not a big factor in your case. There is also a noticeable difference in handling between a passive shock and the Magnaride, especially in 'extreme' or 'evasive' maneuvers. Experiencing this once is enough to convince you they are well worth the price. Not meant to be an insulting post, plenty of people have done what you are planning. But consider that at some point you bought premium features for a reason and price, if you didn't plan to maintain that premium, why buy it in the first place? You could have bought a 'base' or lesser model and saved money on purchase and maintenance. Example: we know there aren't many features that make a Denali different from any other GM SUV, if I start scrapping those, all I have is a badge - I suppose that is worth something to some people (ones, I don't care for). It's your truck but my opinion is don't do it a disservice.

Gale Banks has plenty of air filter thoughts too, regarding the "cold air intake" / filter on a stick things. At least he shows data/testing for his stuff.

Year? Model? Engine? Mileage? Every engine uses oil (I measure what comes out of the pan at every change on every vehicle - every one of them is usually a quart less than what goes back in. Nissan, Ford, Honda, Chevrolet, Mercedes Benz, turbo, N/A, supercharged, direct injected, carbureted, 3,000 miles 300,000 miles.) 3 quarts a month seems excessive - how many miles are you driving in that three months?

It's probably been close to 20 years ago but I recall a study comparing air filters that included numerous types/brands of air filters, notably an AC/Delco and a reusable filter could have been a K&N but can't swear to it. Long story short, the AC/Delco flowed as well as the re-usable and filtered WAY better. I've been using them ever since.

I would try having the rear spring pack re-arched to your satisfaction.

Can you get a 2025 with coil springs and the rear air helpers still? Option 1: Coil springs at all 4 corners. Option 2: Coil springs at all 4 corners with helper air springs on the shocks. Option 3: Air bags/springs at all 4 corners. If option 2 is even a thing, its function will be different from option 3. As noted, setting up a WDH with automatic load leveling (option 2 and likely part of option 3) is tricky where you have to follow recommended set up practices from the owners manual of both the truck and the hitch - which could be contradictory. In either case some time spent at a truck scale carefully measuring where and how much weight is being transferred is critical. The goal is getting the weight distributed properly regardless of any 'level' or 'sag' condition. This can be confusing because as the truck tries to 'level' itself it will alter the weight distribution.

The majority will be in the spring. No truck will measure perfect. There are too many tolerances. Tire pressure, your concrete slab, fuel level... If it sits dead level at a full tank, it will be off at empty. if it is dead level while you're outside the tuck measuring it will be off while you are inside driving it. You are being too picky here, because there is no way to consistently achieve what you are seeking.

How long has this been occurring? Has the trucks software been updated (recently)?

My point was pulling a heavy load in of itself isn't nearly as difficult as a large enclosed or travel trailer. Most I've had on a half ton was 8.5k on the axles of a 27' travel trailer, 4k on the truck rear axle, 3.5k on the front axle, GCW was 16k, it was 500 overweight on the rear axle, a smidge over GVWR, 1k over GCWR. Curb weight of the truck unhooked was a little under 7k, right at 1k of available rear axle capacity. Weight distribution, sway control and trailer brakes it was manageable, but listening to the motor turn over 3k rpms all the time got tiresome. At that time, the highest rated half ton GM had a GVWR of 17.7k with a maximum trailer weight of 12k.

I had to replace the sensor twice. Somewhere I recall you can blow out the port it screws in to, I don't remember if it goes to the oil pan or filter, and if the filter had to be off...

There is a HUGE difference between a 20' 5000 lb travel trailer and a 20' utility trailer hauling 10000 lbs of steel plate.

I would agree that the buildup I've seen on them and what I expect to be on mine are concerning. I'm sure at some point I will pull it and clean it. Depending on those results will determine if I do anything different in the future. Mine 'should' be 'bad' enough that if there are benefits to cleaning it they will be readily apparent.

Mine has at least 80000 miles on its sensor. Never even looked at it. Service information claims the coating of soot doesn't alter its performance and my experience tends to agree.

Obviously, no relation to the historical engine... ...or any other displacement similarities. Not likely, but given the 'current' regulatory environment I wonder about the take rate of a 'simple' V8 engine that removes some of the more problematic features. More comparable with an early 2000's LS, no displacement on demand, no variable water pumps, no variable valve timing, no direct injection. Somewhere around 6 liters, with 400hp, 450ft-lbs. Keep the 10-speed auto and see what kind of mileage it gets.

Some updates: This is kind of resolved with the latest Apple update that has CARPLAY widgets, I can show apps/content/info that I prefer as a home screen. "Now playing", weather, etc. I contacted the seller and after a software update, I now have steering wheel controls that behave as expected. Any other issues and nitpicks I have gotten used to or are not important enough to warrant messing with. I stay in CARPLAY all the time, so any Android or launcher issues are not important. The only other item I see is the graphic of a car that I would prefer more to resemble the truck. So far, the product has been performing reliably since installation.

The only "brand" tire I've had consistent, reliable, long life, good tread wear, good balancing, no punctures, no blow-outs, no road hazards, good traction - have all been BFGoodrich. All Terrain TA KO (2 sets) All Terrain TA KO2 (2 sets) Advantage TA (4 sets) Long Trail TA (3 sets) Trail Terrain TA (1 set) Every other brand has had one issue or another. Michelin - wouldn't stand behind warranty (3 sets) Pirelli - couldn't survive my gravel driveway (1 set) General - couldn't keep air in them for all the punctures and poor tread wear (1 set) Goodyear - mediocre performance by every metric (2 sets) Continental - mediocre performance (1 set) Bridgestone - mediocre performance, the only other brand I've had that I would re-consider (1 set) Observations All the Nitto tires I see have weird tread wear on them As already noted, no telling who owns what anymore, or if it even matters. Who did the R&D, who specified the compounds, who manufactured it, what warranty does it come with, what price point, dealer, and the list goes on... All to get to my point, which is, internet recommendations I think are pretty worthless. I am going to buy what I've had good success with and will have to have a very compelling reason to switch. For example, on our Yukon Denali, we had to make some rush decisions on tires due to some other circumstances that included a wheel size change. The tires I WANTED were no longer in production (KO2) and the KO3 was REALLY expensive with a long lead time. Ended up with a set of Ironman something or others - supposedly made by Cooper. They were a fraction of the cost, and I haven't had any major complaints given they were $700.00 for all four. (They have a slight vibration at high speeds 85+)

Re-read the 10-year-old thread. It will run the same. You will have to get a custom tune to solve the check engine light.