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lovelessjl

Member
  • Content count

    144
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37 Good

About lovelessjl

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 08/09/1983

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Profile Information

  • Name
    Jake
  • Location
    Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    15 Silverado RCSB
  • Interests
    Blinky lights, switches, motorcycles, GM muscle cars and trucks.
  1. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    You're definitely lower than 3/5 looks more like 4/7 to me. Here's my truck at 4/6 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  2. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    Nasty is right. I'm running a 305/40/22 which is a 31.5x12 and I have some light rubbing at 4/6 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. I could be wrong since I'm not sure what method was used to raise the front, but for less than 2" of lift, your diff probably didn't move. The lift is probably all in the struts. Your cv axles will be a t a slight angle between the diff and the wheel, but I doubt your diff was relocated for such a small amount of lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. If your drive line angles are out of tolerance you'll probably feel a high frequency vibration... More of a buzz than a shake. If you wanna be extra sure just for piece of mind, grab a magnetic angle guage from a parts store and check the angles. A Google search and a bit of reading will tell you all you wanna know about what the angles should be. But with only 1" change in the rear, and no new vibration, I'd say you're fine. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  5. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    To clarify, aluminum and stamped steel control arms use the same balljoints, so they can use the same spindle. Cast steel control arms use a different balljoint, so they need a different spindle. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. Are you experiencing any strange vibrations? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    Go for it! Post pics! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    MRR lists the offset on the wheels Qwank and I are running as +30 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    My maxtrac flip kit is set at 6" which gave me a true 6" drop measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well. My axle sits 4" from the frame with no bump stop. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. Black Bear Tune - 6.2?

    I think gas trucks can be tuned, it's just a bigger pain to do than it was before, it's the duramax trucks that you can't tune. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. Black Bear Tune - 6.2?

    I have a Blackbear tune on a 15, and they did adjust the trans on mine, but after their tune it was a completely different truck. Call them up and pick his brain, really nice people, they'll give you the scoop. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. Just a thought on the catch can. I have to empty mine every 2500-3000 miles. I get 4-5 Oz of oil out of it every time I empty it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    I'm at 4/6 with 305/40/22s and I do rub a bit, but it doesn't rub so bad that it bothers me, just light contact on the liner. Also my 4x4 works just fine. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. I don't see why they wouldn't install one, but you would have to ask them about their pricing. It's a quick and easy deal, less than half an hour, even if you're not mechanically inclined. As for the k&n filter. You won't be able to tell any difference from just swapping the filter, the current intake setups are actually fairly efficient at stock power levels. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. No worries, I'll write my explanation for the folks that don't know as much about engines so bear with me. The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system vents excess gas from within the engine block. If you look at old school hot rods, that's what those little filters on the valve covers are for. A modern PCV system uses vacuum from the intake manifold to actually suck out any excess pressure. This helps ensure you don't go spitting out gaskets everywhere and creating leaks. An unfortunate side effect of the PCV system is that it introduces oil vapor from inside the block into the intake manifold. In theory it should simply go into the cylinders with the rest of the intake charge and be burned on the combustion stroke. Unfortunately some of this oil condenses inside the manifold due to the cooler intake air temperature. Ever take a manifold off a 5.3 and were able to basically just pour oil out of it? This is why. Some of the oil will also deposit on the intake valve and after enough builds up, start causing valve sealing issues, loss of compression etc. This isn't as big of a problem on LS based engines since the fuel injector squirts directly onto the valve, basically washing the valve and keeping deposit levels low. But on the newer direct injected engines, you dont get that valve cleaning effect since the injector squirts directly into the cylinder, and deposits become a bigger problem. A PCV catch can helps ease these problems. It's not a complete fix, but it does pull a surprising amount of oil out of the PCV gasses. Its basically a can that mounts in line with the PCV vent tube that runs from the block to the intake. It gives the oil vapor a place to condense out of the PCV gasses before it reaches the intake. You can also put a can on the line between the valve cover and intake, but that part tends to have less oil vapor. So if you're going to run a single can, run it from the lifter valley line. If you Google elite engineering catch can, their website can explain in more detail how it works. But this should give you a basic warm and fuzzy. For some reason I'm having trouble uploading pics... But a quick Google search will pull up lots of pics. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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