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Showing results for tags 'Sensor'.
Found 19 results
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I'm the happy owner of a 2015 2500HD 6.0 Flex Fuel Double Cab. When I fill the tank, I get in and turn the key, pause, then bump the key to start. It will turn the starter longer than needed (3 or 4 seconds) then let go. The motor usually fires, but once in a while she'll stall. Mind you, this only happens at the pump. I have not had this issue any other time. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and opinions!
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Shifting on interstate
Daniel Johnsey posted a topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500. Yesterday driving down the interstate with cruise control on I noticed the truck shifting back and forth between fourth and fifth gear. It seemed to hold fine when I would take the cruise off and hold the speed myself. It would also stop when pulling a hill as it would stay in fourth gear. Today it seemed to be doing the same thing in the lower gears and the check engine light came on as well. Planning on hooking it up to the scanner tomorrow but am looking for any ideas of where to start. -
I am looking to replace my sensor and the harness as they are known to be bad and causing the p0711 code. In my research I found the 2015 has a split harness but they changed it in 2016 to a one piece harness and then I believe they went back to the split one, not sure which year. What is the part number for the sensor and harness? I've looked everywhere and can't find nothing, plenty of threads but noone has mentioned part numbers and acdelco website does not have a part listed in their catalog for that year.. nor does any parts site like napa or autozone -
First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks! -
I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. -
2008 Silverado. I've tried new sensors, new wiring harness and new park assist module. Info center DOES NOT say "service park assist" or "park assist disabled". There's the red flashing light on the indicator(no yellow) in the back passenger corner of cab but no chime/chimes while backing or nearing an object. Any ideas short of a dealer visit???
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Recently purchased a 2019 gmc 2500 longbed I still have my 2015 Sierra 2500 shortbed can I swap front bumpers to get the front bumper sensors. I also want to swap the power folding Mirrors. Are any of these possible options?
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I’m trying to install new front end parking sensors to my 2016 GMC Sierra like @pgamboa on his YouTube video. Only not sure what todo with the front bumper, I’m trying to save money and not have to buy a new one with the sensor holes since mine current one is in excellent condition. Does anybody know how can I get the layout for the holes for exact placement and size? I figured I can drill them out myself but I’ve already looked everywhere online and can’t find anything on this. My last option would be go find a truck and physically measure them out, can anyone help? -
What's the point of including the inclination sensors on the Theft Protection Package? My vehicle doesn't have this package, yet i can still see in my instrument cluster the inclination of my vehicle, either facing up, facing down, leaning left, or leaning by right, by the number of degrees. It does use this information as it automatically engages the hill start assist feature if I'm pointed uphill. If the sensors are already there on the vehicle, why does it need more as a part of this package? Anyone know? -
Anyone have any good suggestions for a front parking sensor that isn't OEM. I just want something simple to set up in the bumper somewhere that tells me very basically how close I am to anything in the front. I have the backup camera so I don't need anything in the back but just want something so I can confidently pull as far forward in a parking space as possible. I've looked around online and can't seem to find anything really simple that is plug and play. It doesn't have to plug into the Chevy system at all either. Thanks!
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What would happen if I disconnected the ground cable sensor? I'm moving my battery to the other tray and would hate to add 4' of cable just to hit this sensor. Maybe I could add the long cable just so the sensor has something to report, but also run a second shorter ground to the block from the new battery location. Thoughts?
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I’m at my wits end over this I’m not sure if it’s been discussed on here yet but I’m having a serious problem with my truck going into limp mode at random. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra, SLT, Z71 (newer body style) It runs fine for weeks, sometimes even months. Out of nowhere it’ll go into limp mode with these dash warnings: ”engine power reduced” ”traction control off” ”service traction control” ”service stabilitrack” Readings are: P2138 C0242 C0899 C0900 I replaced the engine due to a cam and lifter problem about 3 yrs ago. The truck started acting up about a month after the engine was replaced. The engine is still under warranty. -I’ve changed the gas pedal sensor. -I’ve changed the throttle body and throttle positioning sensor. -I’ve changed the electronic control module (ECM) -I’ve changed the electronic brake control module (EBCM) -I’ve even replaced the battery cables -I’ve added a new ground wire, thinking I had a bad ground somewhere. - I’ve checked and cleaned all connections into the throttle body, gas pedal, and all the plug ins I could see and get to. I had a guy tell me to look at the brake booster and possibly change that. It might be leaking or something. I’m not sure if that’s accurate advice and I haven’t done anything to the brake booster. Other than fooling with the brake booster, I’ve literally done everything I know to do except change the entire wiring harness!!! I don’t want to do that though. I love the truck and I don’t want to sell it but Im tired of putting money into it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m on the verge of pushing it off of a tall cliff! help! - James
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Does anyone know how to remove the front parking sensors on the 2015 LTZs? The mounting bracket broke for the driver side sensor, I have a replacement, I just can't seem to get what's left of the old one out. Pls don't tell me the whole bumper has to come off. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I looked around for a while and couldn't find anything.
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Hi all, This is my first time posting on this forum so I hope I'm in the right area. My "service air bag" light came on today and I knew right away what the issue was due to the popular corrosion complaints. I decided to check for myself and sure enough, one of them is cracked. What I'm having difficulties understanding is why the retaining bolt is going from the top down. You would basically have to remove the radiator to get this thing out. I really don't understand why mine looks nothing like there other videos and images I've seen online. For everyone else, it seems as easy as getting underneath the truck and just unplugging and unbolting it. Has anybody else had a similar experience as me? Is there an easier way to remove this without having to take out or remove the radiator? I noticed that the end of the bolt is star shaped. Is this so that you can fit some kind of tool over it to unscrew from the bottom end? This image is from the underside. I removed the plastic skid plate to get a better view. I should also mention that this is on a 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT. With a 5.3 V8, not that it has any relevance for this. Thanks,
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Had my new 2015 Tahoe LTZ for about 5 weeks and for a few weeks now have been feeling a pressing in the back of my thighs/rear. Tried adjusting the seat many times. It is the lane departure sensors in the seat base that seem to be mounted too high, with not enough padding on top of them. Both the right and left side are super uncomfortable. Took it to Silver Star in Thousand Oaks, CA. Service tech hopped in and felt them right away. Awaiting repair but not optimistic.. Anyone have similar problem? -
Hey guys, I'd like to tap into the collective knowledge of the group. Can someone tell me (or show with a picture) of where the temp sensor is for the outside air? I need to figure out how to not block the wind getting to it when I'm driving with the plow on. I tried all the way up, down low, straight, angled, and nothing seemed to make much difference. The best I could get was down low to the ground and the temp reading on the center screen was telling me 60 degrees F, while the local weatherman told me it was about 0 F. on Saturday when it was a bit warmer out, the reading actually hit over 100 degrees. then my heater switched to blowing cool air. That doesn't help me much when trying to melt snow off the windshield. So, long story short, where is the sensor, and if anyone has tips on how to maintain airflow to it while plowing, that would be great. I am open to moving it right now. -
I seriously need help locating the crankshaft sensor on my 2004 Silverado 2500hd diesel. I have been looking for it for 2 days now and I cant find anything on internet to point me to the exact location. please please help..
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I am purchasing a new K&N cold air intake kit for my truck to primarily try to improve gas mileage (extra power always a plus too). I plan to get the K&N Performance Intake kit with the polyethylene tube shown here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/k-n-performance-intake-kit-57-3031-1/17401676-P?searchTerm=intake K&N seems pretty reputable. I also read the polyethylene tube is better than a aluminum chrome tube since the aluminum can heat up from the heat of the engine and decrease the performance of the cool air intake. My question is do I need to buy a different air flow sensor for my new intake kit or will the computer in my truck calibrate/account for the new intake? I also plan to clean the air flow sensor with air flow sensor cleaner during the process. Thanks! Any tips on any of these topics appreciated! -
Hello all, Recently (couple weeks ago) I replaced both knock sensors when my MIL came on and threw code P0332 (knock sensor bank 2 low voltage input IIRC). I knew that only one sensor was affected by the code but I replaced both just because. I did however notice that the bank 2 sensor connection was easier to come off than bank 1, which I think may come into play later on in this story. Of course, both knock sensors were submerged in water, which I cleaned out. I did NOT do the silicon-dam method, as I discovered this after I was done with the job. I did not replace the wiring harness either. The MIL was off for at least a week before it came back, P0332 again. Yesterday I did some diagnosis to try and figure out what is going on with this. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensor (ohmed out at the harness plug on intake) both show a resistance of 99-100 kOhm (or Ohm, can't remember) with the engine off. I then checked the response of each sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensors both showed a change in voltage when tapping on the block with a hammer, which is good. I then started the engine up and measured the voltage change with RPM change for each sensor, and here is where it gets interesting Bank 1 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 150 mV with a quick RPM sweep (friend stabbed the gas pedal quick to change the sensor output) Using the same technique, Bank 2 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 100 mV, which was significantly different than the bank 1 sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 pins from the connection on the intake manifold to the PCM show very similar resitances between them, signifying that there should be no short between the PCM and knock sensors themselves (unless the sensor harness is bad) That completes all of the diagnostic trouble-tree steps I have taken via AllData. The next steps are PCM replacement, which I do not want to do. I realize that the sensors may be designed to pick up specific frequencies and as such, different responses under the same conditons, but the sensors have the same P/N if I am not mistaken, so that must be the characteristics of the mounting location, right? The fact that the bank 2 sensor electrical connection seemed to be loose compared to bank 1 has me wondering about the sensor wiring harness and the fact that the connection may be poor/intermittent. I am going to order one and replace it because it's a relatively quick and inexpensive job to do, but I was wondering if there is anything else that would make sense? Thanks in advance!
