Metro12

Ahhh, ok. I was unaware such a feature existed! Truck ran fine for the ride home from the stealership. They replaced the second spark plug for no charge Anything available to try and clean out the gunk that’s built up?

So, if not driving it once every week, either let it sit on the trickle charge and don’t start, or start and rev the engine WOT?

Sat since late October but I started probably every other week, pulled it out and ran it for 15-20min

Called GM CC, and expressed my concern that two plugs went bad at 20,700 miles, 70,000 miles ahead of the service schedule. wait and see

I have a 2019 NBS 5.3 with 20,700 miles. Yesterday I took it out after it’s sat on a trickle charger inside a garage since October. I got a shudder at slight acceleration and a check engine light flashed. Turned it off, noticed reduced power and the shudder/engine light came on again. Checked under the hood and found a mouse nest under the engine cover. Towed to dealer. Dealer called that evening and said it had a code for a single cylinder misfire, they moved the spark plug and then got a misfire on that cylinder, so said the plug need replaced. They said no wires were chewed, so the mouse didn’t cause it. Also said the oil cooler line had a leak that would be a warranty repair. I agreed to replace the plug since I was already on the hook for shop time since it’s not under the power train warranty. Dealer calls this afternoon and said another cylinder is misfiring and they moved that plug and the misfire followed and now they’re pushing for a $699 “tune up” to replace plugs and wires. I told them no. Plugs, wires, brakes, rotors, oil and filters are within my capabilities and work I’ve done in the past, it’s $100 for me to cuss and scream for an hour in my garage and do it myself. What I’ve never done in the past is replace plugs at 20k miles, nor have I had a plug fail and 12hrs later have another one fail. I told the dealer I’m concerned something else is wrong and they’re just replacing plugs. Any ideas on something else that might legit be wrong, or are they just trying for a $699 spark plug job?

Battery disconnect for a couple hours, and both windows are back to normal operation.

Anyone had luck with this? I can't stand all the third party ads littering the page. Checked the store and can't find anything for paid membership.

I have a Passat TDI, and when it gets low it gives me a count-down, and warns that when it reaches empty, that car won't run any more. I think the warnings start, at start up, at 1,000 miles. If the tank is half full, it should be good for plenty more than 1200 miles. I just had a warranty repair on my Passat, and they replaced the DEF tank and pump for it not recognizing the tank was full. Might be an issue with level sensor.

I tried putting it in a bag of rice, and it didn't work. Disconnected the battery terminal and will try reconnecting it on break this afternoon-at work. Thanks

So, it’s been cold here….10F overnight, 20F day time. Two days ago my windows were frozen….I went to roll down and it moved about 1/8in and stopped, both the front windows. Today I noticed a warning in the DIC, the driver window will not go up or down-no movement or sound at all- and is about 1/2in from closed, and the passenger window jerks. I checked fuse 14 on the passenger fuse block and it was fine. I left the truck in a 65 degree garage all day, and still no change. Any ideas before taking it in for warranty check? Photo and video attached

I have a NBS silverado 1500 custom. I have the onstar WiFi package, and have on a service ticket started with onstar/ AT&T. My WiFi will just stop working, usually after more than about 45min of driving. If I make an onstar call, it will briefly work while on the call. If I shut the truck off for more than 10min, it will start to work again. A search online with similar issue, stated to pull the fuse and replace to do a hard reset of the module. I’ve googled, and checked the owners manual, and can NOT figure out which fuse would control the cellular module for onstar.

Bough the listed LEDs off amazon, and after some scraped up hands and brief panic that I had my arm stuck, I swapped out to the new ones. Worked great on the drive home from dinner, nobody flashed! Thanks for the post and info!

If it was a vehicle speed sensor, you would more then likely get a pulsation and delay in the brakes, the last 10ft before stopping. It would feel like you were stopping on ice. (When a VSS is bad, faulty, or not reading correctly, the ABS thinks the wheel is spinning at a different speed when braking, like when on ice and one wheel may lock and the others spin-which triggers your ABS to kick in.) I'd take the wheel off, and just follow all the wires to connectors, and make sure they are all seated properly.

Have you tried driving it? Is the anti-lock doing anything goofy? Before taking the shocks on and off again-I'd recommend these "shot in the dark" attempts first- 1. Disconnect battery to allow ECM to reset 2. Take THAT wheel off, and see if any wires are loose or disconnected 3. Get the code read Hearing that you had wheel well liners you pulled and replaced, is making me more comfortable in guessing that you bumped some connection for the ABS, where it connects right by the wheel.

I don't think any part of the leveling would have caused the warning lights. I think its more probable, that there is a sensor that is disconnected dealing with ABS.