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all I hear is we want want basic trucks, yet everytime I see a new one on the road it is not the basic truck......its a mid trim and up........with discounts and negotiation you can get one in high 30s low 40s I paid 34-36k for my 2005 Toyota tundra in 2006......these higher trims didn't even exist, they wouldn't build them if we didn't want them........you can most certainly buy a very affordable brand new P/U people just don't REALLY want them........what they really want is the Trail Boss/LTZs to be in high 30s-40s and that's never gonna happen......probably not here so much but in general most suck at negotiating as well so there's that watch what they do not what they say, lol

I dont mind chrome, never have....am 58yrs old though and grew up with it my SLT 2500 is chrome....looks sharp when clean

wonder if the WT and custom still get old interiors? actually prefer my 24 to these, though the exterior looks really good......I have a HD as well steering wheel looks cheap and screens are too much....I like a good screen but passenger one and center one is a bit much maybe look different in person........really dont like that steering wheel though

196,680 Mile Service 8/23/2026 Balance and rotate tires after removing rocks and a screw that didn't make it past the top tread thickness. 4,888 mile interval. I don't use anything but tape weight and one of them had spit its out coming up 3.25 oz out. Also have one rim with a bit of runout. Potholes I expect. Looking for a replacement then I'll have this one straightened and painted and star a wheel restoration. Anyway, it spins no worse than any other. Took a perfect balance and drives fine. I'm not getting lazy; just pragmatic. Road trip tomorrow.

did the 2022 battery drain issue ever get resolved? chasing similar gremlins in a 2021...

I put my black bear on to see if it pulled up any codes. No DTC found. When the shop checked there was no check engine lights either. I drove the truck around today and nothing popped up light or code wise. However, whatever plug in module the shop used could find codes just like the dealership could. I should of took pictures of the shops tablet to show what they see.

i guess that's.... no??:)

Would you supercharge the 6.2L on a 2021 GMC Yukon Denali XL with ProCharger?.... 605HP is the stated number without going crazy - it's not the LT4 682HP package, but I'm tempted to install it... This vehicle was ... not... recalled on the engine swap - but I don't really know if that means ...don't do it... or do it;) Maybe i should start a prediction market pool on it in case it blows up;) Any thoughts appreciated - I already OWN the supercharger - stopped the installation when the recall was announced and now it's taking up space in storage until I can solve an electrical issue with the vehicle... 4th GMC suburban-equivalent truck - I like them a lot - when they don't a) discharge their batteries randomly, or b) throw a rod at highway speeds;)

We tested the sleep mode with an ammeter in series with the negative battery terminal - 30amp fused - so we do know the actual shutdown and non-shutdown current draws and timing of the shutdown sequence. We just have no protocol information to determine what module is issuing the (likely) network management (NM) keep alive.

TrueBlue...Even if you don't have that info stuff displayed, If Mr. Computer thinks there's something you should know about, it will pop up a warning message no matter what else is being displayed. I keep the speedometer displayed all the time, yet the brake pad message pops up anyway.

BTW, the 11.5amp draw is all the usual systems active - it's not a single draw - that's the "we're all awake" state of the vehicle - forinstance if the power steps are actuated, the draw will spike to 22amps for that operation. when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected, the vehicle shuts down that one time only - and we see a 10-15minute progression down 11.5 10.5 9. 8 6. 5. 1.6... 500ma... and then off to sleep at 40 milliamp... as expected. So we know it's a module that is simply refusing to allow the SDGM to proceed to the sleep state. We do NOT think it is the telematics VIM module - since we already duplicated the problem with the "VIM bypass" solution installed (we reverted that since it also disables the gmc app - but it does not appear that the telematics system is the culprit). We've replaced the rear heater control module, tested without the wireless charger, and the other modules on CAN Bus 5 - but still something is keeping us awake and removing X2 from SDGM allows sleep to proceed. We cannot diagnose from OBD since OBD drops off at about the 9volt level in sleep mode and we can't communicate with the vehicle - also we can't trace the SDGM internal packets from the OBD side - we have Autel Ultra. Any ideas on why disconnecting X2 would allow sleep to proceed appreciated. This is no longer a repair situation - this vehicie is simply unusable in this condition and NOBODY at GMC Dealer can even understand what it is doing. This is crazy. We made these systems too complex and now we're paying the price.

Did this ever get solved? I'm chasing 2021 Yukon Denali electrical issues - vehicle will not enter sleep mode - we can disconnect and reconnect the battery and it will sleep - but that's likely because we powered down whatever module doesn't correctly sleep. once we start/accessory the vehicle and turn off, it will stay at 11.5 amp draw with something keeping the SDGM alive - it appears to be activity on the X2 segment, specifically CAN FD Bus 5 - but we don't know which device and we think we've already isolated all of the devices on that segment - so what keeps the BCM and/or the SDGM alive is unknown. I don't yet have a packet trace from CAN 5 (and since this Global B we might not get much info from it) - but the vehicle has been down for 8 weeks and previously GMC Dealer was unable to resolve "kills battery" issues with this particular vehicle - so I'm at a loss - it seems to be beyond local repair capabilities - and the number of "telematics keeps vehicle from sleeping" posts indicates this whole architecture has major issues - I hate to say it, but we might have to install a battery cutoff switch on the front grill - one of those red boat switches - to turn off the vehicle.;) Any pointers appreciated;) I just bought a CAN FD interface and I'm planning to try Savvycan and Peak Can SW to triage this further.

Have had this truck for 7 years and it has 135,000 km on it. Have had no issues with it. Had 70,000 km when I bought it so I average about 9300km/year. The other day I started it to leave grocery store and felt a bad miss as I was pulling out of my stall. Rolled down window and heard the clatter. Limped it home about 1 mile and investigated further. Cylinder 6 misfire, check engine light flashing and I believe traction control light on. The flattering gave it away in my mind. I did try swapping plug, coil and wire from 6 to 4 hoping the moss would move to 4 but no luck. Also compression dropped to 120lb when cylinder 1 has over 200lbs. Called tow truck to tow to local GM dealer. Failed lifter and 1 bent pushrod. Dealer changing lifters and pushrods on 2,4,6,8 and also VLOM. Think it may be time to get rid of this truck when I pick it back up from dealer. Dealer told me they do about 2 of these repairs every month.

Yes, but the disablers for '22.5 and newer weren't available for a long time after '23. And then only by Range. This is the first I've heard of another company offering one. Just want to confirm it's a fact.

Nice! That would take years off my life keeping them that clean up here in MA. Between the rain and road salt, besides all the potholes that stay full of water, it never stops.

I turned AFM/DFM off on my 22 Silverado with a Range DFM Module: https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/parts/RA007 Lou

So, that site says it will work on '23 and up 5.3 (and others). But as far as I think I knew, only Range tech had finally cracked the 23 and up ECM. Do you know if the Full Force disabler actually works on the newest motors and trucks? BTW, I for one appreciate your candidness. I've protected my truck by driving in L9 every time I've used it since I took delivery with 35 miles on the clock, and I'm the only one who drives it, so I'm as assured as I can be that a bad lifter isn't going to grenade my motor. But there are others who have not taken precautions, who could be saved by an honest appraisal of the situation.

If you can, you might try checking the fuel pressure going into the FPR w the key on, it should be over the listed pressure range. You might also check on charm.li (website) for the fuel pressure, it may be slightly different for the setup you have (with the FPR on the fuel rail). I think I read somewhere that it can be different from the later systems, like in my '04, where the FPR is part of the fuel pump itself.

Been tinkering over the last week or two cleaning my TRX up. Mainly underneath and inside. Just crossed the 5 year mark with it and I’m very happy with the condition I’ve kept it in, especially for a rust belt truck that lives outside 24/7/365. See, not everything needs to turn into a rusty piece of junk up here. But most stuff does.

UPDATE: Part Numbers Heated Steering Wheel: 23278632 Clock Spring: 23193462 Removed the heated steering wheel but left the clock spring in - Installed my original steering wheel to the new clock spring to see if the back lights work, and they do... Confused to the max. At this point, I think my game plan is to remove the switch assembly on the new steering wheel that manages the cluster and 3D print a blank insert to go in its place. As to the heated steering wheel portion - I will reinstall as I had it, where it was receiving constant power and not shutting off, but this time will add a switch in line and mount it near the head light knob. I'm done messing around with wiring and what not. Lesson learned - never buy a base model vehicle... Nothing but trouble when trying to customize or add higher trim upgrades. Honestly ridiculous.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve already replaced the fuel filter when I changed the pump. I’ve also already changed the regulator

you need to be a vendor before you post links to your business like in your sig.

If your truck has a vacuum line, that means it has the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. This also means there's a inline fuel filter along the inside of the frame rail, below the driver's seat. Maybe replace that and check FP again/.

When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph.