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These show the problem and symptoms, and I explain things too. to clarify again, I did not change over any computers or wiring (with the exception of the map sensor). All of the computers and wiring are original to the 2010 vehicle video 1 - background info/explanation and part of the problem video 2, idle misfire I think the reason that the MAP sensor is reading High is because the engine is misfiring so there is less vacuum... Additionally there's a p0102 for the MAF low frequency, and a p0108 for the map high voltage. Again, apologies for the somewhat long-winded explanation, it's a rather difficult problem to explain without going into the details.

You'd want the Pulsar to be safe. That was the first product that worked for 10 speed trucks that they came out with. Range Technology 22451 Pulsar LT for 2019-2022 GM Gas Trucks That said, in the features description of the RA003B, it does list it working with 10 speeds. However there are reports that the RA003B can cause some drivability issues on early 10 speeds. So the Pulsar is the safest move IMO. Range Technology RA003B AFM/DFM Disabler Features: Range AFM/DFM Disabler keeps you in full power 100% of the time Simply plug into your onboard OBD-II port and it instantly begins working to eliminate the AFM system Disables Auto Start/Stop Blue LEDs The Range AFM/DFM Disabler does not reprogram factory ECU Works in hundreds of applications, 2007-2022, including 10-speed models. Leaves no trace, unplug it to return to factory settings Virtually no battery draw Fits all V6 and V8 General Motors (GM) active or dynamic fuel management vehicles, includes cars, trucks, and SUVs This device does not support the 2022.5+ Refresh model trucks or 2021+ SUVs To confirm your 2022 model truck is compatible with this unit, check your VIN. The 12th digit in an early model must be a '4' or lower Made in USA

I have a 2019 new body style high country with a 6.2l L87 and a 10 speed transmission code MQB. Looking for a disabler that is compatible. Most show it’s not. I watched a video on utube from Dons Life that says Ranges RA003B is compatible but when you go to Ranges website and check compatibility it only has a 8L90 trans listed which is an 8 speed. I don’t want to buy the wrong one. Anyone have any experience with this situation?

This actually happened. Be careful where you get your information re: gas price trends.

I understand the principle...you don't want to spend $150 for a $0.02 piece of plastic or a little screw and perch thingy. But this is a problem that looks like it can be reliably solved with a zip tie. That might hold you over until you can score one at a pick-a-parts yard.

Just buy the tube and move on with life.

Glad that worked, and in this case that is all on Autel for somehow dropping the ball for not updating the GMC section properly. I believe in the basic section or unless it is in the advanced, when one does a check of lets say individual sensors for what the pressure is ( and it shows a temperature as well ) , I think it picks up on what the model number of the sensor is in a certain section where you choose "OE" sensor or at least mine is telling me what the model number is and matches to what they actually are and that is the number I quoted in a prior post. I don't recall now if I had said prior that I discovered with my truck anyway that no matter how low I set the placard pressure for the rear tires, if the physical pressure is under 35 psi and I drive it for about 15 miles the pressure warning will come on for one or both rear tires. I am speculating that there is something else in the trucks system that over rides the placard pressure setting once it drops below that minimum pressure to run a metric LT tire at. The weird thing is it does not trigger right away after driving a shorter distance, it took that longer drive for it to trigger. Just something to keep in mind if you were experimenting with pressures below 35 pounds for a tire designed for lower pressures ( larger than stock floatation series tires ) and not being overloaded of course.

I've seen a scant few YT vids on them, but it's always in a performance application.

No clue. Service advisor said he'd call me this morning, which I'm 99% sure won't happen. They had the truck 5 days, and I didn't hear a peep. Finally had to call them yesterday. I guess they'd be content to just let the truck sit in perpetuity.

I had a little bit of time before I left for work this morning, so I plugged the scanner back in, and I selected Chevrolet Silverado instead of GMC Sierra, and the very first option was for a 2026 so I selected that one and I seen at the bottom it had the option for psi change unlike in the 2026 GMC Sierra, I selected that option and it took a little longer than the usual vehicle not supported, and sure enough I got into it, and it let my change the psi values.. I no longer have the low psi warning light! Thank you for recommending me to try it under Chevrolet instead! I can confirm this device does work for a 2026 GMC Sierra 2500 hd 6.6 diesel just have to select Chevrolet Silverado instead of GMC Sierra. Maybe I'll contact Autel and let them know of that issue and maybe they will fix it for the GMC option because some people probably return the scanner due to it not working under GMC Sierra.

I just did a little bit more research, and it seems that this Avalanche is not a Global-A vehicle, because the charts seem to list several models that were Global-A starting in 2010, but the Avalanche is not on there. And even similar models such as the Silverado are not on the Global -A platform until later in 2013. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, the 2007 is a GMT 900. Originally I had ruled out computers/compatibility as a problem because I did not change over any computers, only the engine. I know that the motors are different codes, but it seems like the lmg to lc9 is a fairly common swap, at least from what I can read online. I'm using all the wiring and sensors from the 2010 vehicle, as well as the computers (the only exception to that being the MAP sensor).

Real Truck handles the warranty via GM. We don't submit a warranty claim with GM, we have to submit it with Real Truck with a specific email/phone number. Real Truck determines if the issue is covered or not based on the issue and pictures submitted.

Some clarification may help with some of these issues. - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names. So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding. - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage." - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty. Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty. - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK. The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000 - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer. Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim. Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe. Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover. When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty. - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers. They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world. That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer. - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install. Hope this helps.

Welcome to the group! My '22 just crossed 150K miles. Runs perfectly. Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K. Love the truck.

Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....

Thanks for all the help so far! I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error! I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet! And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!

From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs. This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to. I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here. EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else. Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!

Recently acquired new 2026 Silv. 1500 WT - L3B + 4WD, std cab + std bed, in (duh!) Sierra White. Upgrades: replaced 'steelies' w/ Vision "Flow" black alloys, 17x8.5"; HDX nerf bar w/steps (black powdercoat); Weatherguard large/deep alloy saddle toolbox; Michelin fitted bedmat (sale, perfect fit) Weathertech door sill guards TBD: rear wheebox liners 4x black fender arch trim - searching for best (Putco: chrome only; not looking for flares either!) -Bill

True, hard to say what differences there may or may not be between Chev and GM as well as a production year or mid year part change either. I just found it odd that under the Sierra choice on the Autel that many of the last few years of production year did not include the choice of changing the tire pressure but if that is an Autel thing or a GM thing as to why the choices were not there. Knowing what tpms sensors are on the truck should give some guidance into which choices on the tool even make sense to try as I wouldn't give up just yet with the tool but I guess he will see what if anything he comes up with if he finds out a bit more info and tries a few more things on the Autel.

I'm sure if you went to a junkyard where you go in and pull the part off the truck yourself, not a used part place where they do it for you, you can get that part on it's own. Depending on if and what else you would be buying, and time of day, they might even just skip over adding it as a item to the bill.

No, we trade them like pokeman cards.

It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code. You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.

Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain. A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day. Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power. It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place. On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out. The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point. I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated.

It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't. So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.