discgolf01

You might be able to play around with this using a hose. It's my understanding that the way the rain sense works is using one of the cameras against the windshield located behind your rear view mirror that looks for drops, size, and rate, so in theory you could set it up and hit it with the hose in that area to see how it increases/decreases. This of course assumes rain sense works with the car park.

If you replaced just the digitizer/glass, its probably one of the ribbon cables you had to remove to do the work. Un clip them again, blow any dust off them and make sure they are completely seated before pushing the clip back down to secure. (Aka your screen can't be black/off because of the new digitizer, it's just a dumb piece of glass that figures out where your finger touched it.

Just did the digitizer replacement today and can also vouch that it's pretty easy and the most time consuming part was cutting the glue and getting the old screen off the metal frame, but having a heat gun helped tremendously, just go one side at a time and use a new blade. I tried to avoid damaging the old digitizer but that was inevitable when I got to the side with the ribbon. As a separate note, the first time I plugged it in and started it up, the display had purple blotches and lines. Figuring that this wasn't due to the new digitizer unless the glass was somehow deformed, I went back and reseated all the ribbon cables I had disconnected and blew on them to clean the connections. That fixed the issue in case other experience the same issue. Have yet to drive it around and really confirmed it fixed the "ghost touch" issue, but have high confidence. Used this part on Amazon, currently on sale for $28. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BMQBHPZ2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1 Edit: I also found this video helpful, even though its from a Yukon/Tahoe, at 18:05 it shows how to remove the old digitizer:

If you got OEM glass, there should be 2 little black lines on the glass to be used as a locator for where the blades sit when parked, this is how they know where to install them at the factory.

Call GM Customer Service, it's not like this is confidential information if you can prove to them you own the truck.

If the steering wheel centers when you let go of it, most likely not a toe issue (though the toe values could still be out of spec, but cancelling each other out that centers the steering wheel with no hands). If you are turning it 5 deg to keep the truck going straight, you've got a pull, which is most likely a camber difference side to side, although there can be other less common reasons (but a camber issue should have nothing to do with an i-shaft replacement). Any chance you just got new tires? Believe it or not, the way the tire is constructed can introduce an aligning torque side to side and result in a pull.

Are you saying it's off 5 deg or so when going down the road, and taking your hands off the wheel and letting the truck track naturally? If yes, does the truck still track in a straight line or does it pull one way or another? (Note: you should try this on multiple straight roads (like a multi lane interstate and local roads) as road crown and road slope will affect what the truck does, so best to get multiple data points) Having said that, it's most likely a front toe issue, which could be caused multiple things. I'm not familiar with the I-shaft design on these trucks, but is one end splined? If yes, just installing and being off 1 spline could result in the 5 deg (even if the spline is on the steering side, not the steering wheel side which you secured).

Reason for the 3 holes is most likely to drain out the e-coating the truck goes through (ELPO), they actually submerge the whole truck in a bath of that stuff so they need it to get in and drain out of cavities like the fenders.

Does your 2nd key (assuming you've never used it) do the same thing?

Yikes - how they steal it? Pry bar and a Sawzall? Any damage to the roof?

Got a multimeter? Put that on there and see which one is correct? If you don't my guess is ODBII

This. I hate that it doesn't match the lower grill insert, which is bright chrome. Makes no sense. On the 2024 HD Ultimate, they made the lower insert vader chrome to match. As for the mirror caps, door handles, etc, that doesn't matter to me as much. That and I wish the interior didn't have to be had with brown seats, not a fan.

Your radio controls got swiped up to show more presets (even though you don't have any). Just swipe them back down. It's a little tricky, you just have to find the right part of it to put your finger on and swipe down.

Whelp, red loctite is technically supposed to be permanent, and if there is something else going on with that joint that is causing it to loosen and it happens again (like the frame or cross member deforming), you may be forced to have to cut off the bolts if you can't break the joint. Which could be a major PITA due to tool access.

Whelp, you could always try red loctite if you're feeling bold/confident. The steps GM noted to torque this bolt do indicate the bolt is a torque-to-yield bolt (initial torque set, then based on angle as final fasten), but the GM bulletin you linked to should have also said something like "you cannot reuse the original bolts once loose" or "one time use only bolts" - but it didn't which is strange. If the lock washers you were using had a larger diameter that the bolt head/nut, that would distribute the force over a larger area and you may not be getting the actual clamp load needed at the bolt head. I actually used to be an engineer at GM way back in the day and would not add any additional hardware (like star, conical, or lock washers) to a joint that didn't have them in the original design. Just a thought. You could also try nylon lock nuts on the back side, but I am not sure if there would be an interaction issue there if you used loctite contacting the nylon at the same time, something to research. As for the 110 degrees, just get the first pass torque achieved, then use a paint pen/magic marker to note start position across the bolt head and frame, then make a mark on the frame where 110 degrees would be, then go as far as you can with the torque wrench, remove it, reset it while keeping an eye on when the paint pen mark on the bolt head reaches the final 110 degree position, even if it takes 2 or 3 times pulling the wrench off and you can go as slow as you want.

Blue loctite? Also, check these bolts are not designed to be a "torque to yield" bolt - meaning when it reaches torque is actually is causing the bolt to plastically deform, you can't reuse those.

Something like these - Amazon has a ton of different sizes, or you can trim them to fit: https://www.amazon.com/Drop16-Holders-Computer-Electrical-Charging/dp/B08XVZH11H/ref=asc_df_B08XVZH11H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507563721518&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18394585813149070488&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032024&hvtargid=pla-1288046524040&psc=1

LOL You would think the higher priority for the site would be to replace the pic of a camo'd prototype on the "2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade" forum since that vehicle was released a long time ago.

Agreed. I had this same issue on my 2005 Silverado, but happened at low forward speeds like when pulling into my driveway - was a defective wheel speed sensor on one of the front wheels.

A little more digging into this and found the GM PN for the K2 SUV door strikers below....looks like the K2 SUVs use a different striker than the K2 Pickups?? That seems dumb unless the SUV version is somehow made to accept this cover plate. Wonder if all K2 SUVs get the cover plate from the factory?

Found this thread on a Camaro board and ordered a pair for my 6th gen and they look great. Before installing, I tried them on my K2, but they don't fit, was wondering if anyone here has found any that fit the K2's? Maybe they come on Escalades and someone has a GM PN? https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484340