CAtaylor

Mine will accelerate in v-4. As soon as it hits 3rd gear it shifts to v4 and will stay there until I get in the throttle more or it hits around 60 mph. Granted the people behind me would like to skull drag me down the road. Flat road mine will run v4 at 70 mph till it times out.

That's odd, I got checks on my last 3 I bought the warranty on. The last gm one was in around 2008 though. Good none the less, atleast you aren't out the money. Tune away!

Yep, I completely jumped over that. You are correct on that one.

They are high but not extreme. I paid more for a Camburg 2.5" level kit on my 2013. Also you don't need shocks with that kit since it relocates the hub; the other suspension components stay the same. It all depends on what you want, if you aren't looking for performance you can do the same with a level and body lift for 350$. He was mentioning BDS, this is cheaper than BDS. You buy the coilovers then you can get the 5" and have the best of both wprlds. You get what you pay for.

I would have to say that the V4 mode definitely helps, atleast in my setup. I work 347 miles from home and I make the drive up to 2 days a week. Every time I get my truck on the road it is for the long haul. If I set the cruise below 73mph my V4 mode will regularly kick in and will hold this in less I am going up a hill. Granted my truck is turning 2250 rpm at this speed. Cruise set at 73 I can get up to 17.6 mpg. At 75 mph 4 cylinder does not kick in except down hill and I am at 15 mpg. I have thought about tuning it out but as much highway driving as I do I have decided not too yet. Set the cruise at 65 and 4 cylinder mode will stay on 85% of the time and I will get close to 19 mpg. I can watch the little fuel economy bar and tell when it is going to shift. Below 17 mpg and it is in v-8, 17-18 mpg and it shifts into v4. Once it is in v4 it will stay in till I pull the mpg readout down to 16 with the skinny pedal and it will shift back to v8. This is with 6" lift, 35 " tires and 4.56 gears. I would love to take a trip and keep it at 65 just to see what it would do but I don't have the patience as that will add another 40 min to an already boring drive.

CST Suspension FTW. They have a 3.5-5" kit for the 14's

One thing to remember is that this was financed in when you bought the truck, they give you the money back but it doesn't come off of the truck payoff amount.

Just go to the dealership and tell the you decided you ddidn't want it anymore. They will prorate it for the remainder of the warranty and mail you a check. That is something good to know if you are trading your truck in as well. Some dealerships will tell you about it and others will not and pocket the money. If I know I am trading mine in I always cancel the warranty before to ensure I get all of my money back.

You can sell the warranty back to them. Buy the tuner and put about 1k back in the bank IMO. I didn't buy the extended on this one. I have bought it on the last 3 vehicles saying I wouldn't tune but have tuned every one of them before they turned over 5k miles. I understand everyone's situation and needs are a little different though.

No I don't. Yukon was working on them from a post a good while back but I have not seen anything on them.

Brett did his the same place I did and bought the parts through East Coast Gear. Going to cost you around $2300 for a 4x4. If you can wait for someone to come out with gears for the 14 it will be less because you won't need the extra parts; new locker, u-joint conversion and spacer for the diff cover. Just find a good shop, I have another set waiting to go in mine because the shop I used hosed up 3 sets now. Brett's went great though using the same shop, I personally think they just got lucky on his. In reference to suspension lifts: Is anyone running aftermarket leafs in the back? If so which ones? I get some pretty bad axle wrap with the 5" blocks and add-a-leaf that is in mine now; It don't like the torque from the 4:56 gears. I need to keep it around 5" lift over stock so a 6"-6.5" leaf pack is what I am looking for.

No problem and yes they should help. It wont be dramatic but it will help. Also, it is easier on the driveline of the truck and you will regain most if not all of the lost performance from the lift and heavier tires.

I would go 4.10 with that size tire, the 4.56 would probably be a little overkill. Currently there is only one company (East Cost Gear) that will provide parts to swap the gears on the new trucks and no one actually makes a gear set for them yet. You have to convert it to a 2013 rear end. I have a thread on the conversion though and if you have questions just call them up. They are good guys to work with.

The 4.56 gears really helped it out. That is why I was mentioning the rpm and load. At 70 it will hold 4 cylinder mode the majority of the time.

More than likely because the 3.42 gears raise the rpm and keep the engine from lugging. I am running 4.56 gears and am turing around 2200 rpm at 70 mph. I am getting 17.3 mpgs there where I was only getting 14.5 with the 3.42 gears running around 1600 rpm. Your engine load is simply higher with the 3.08 gears than it would be with the 3.42 gears at that speed. Keep in mind I am running 35" tires and a 6" lift. I am not saying high rpm is a good thing, at some point the mileage will start going back the other way. Try running the truck in 5th on the highway and see what it does. Use tow haul and find the point where it will stay in 5th but still go into 4 cylinder mode and see how it affects the mileage.

As far as performance I really don't think one is any better than the other, the aluminum will be lighter. Mine has aluminum and they are silver in color, the steel should be black.

Much appreciated. This is how she looks now with the all terrains, new center caps, bed cover and boat hooked up. The boat weighs around 5k all together but the weight sits prety evenly over the axles so only around 350 lbs of tongue weight.

I don't know 100% but I really don't think you could do it on a level. 4" lift maybe with some trimming.

Excellent job. Truck looks great.

Yea, I was worried I wouldn't like them at first just because they weren't MT tires. Once they got them mounted and pulled the truck out I was relieved. They look really good in person, plenty aggressive for what I do and they run so much better on the road. Worth the money IMO. My other tires still had a lot of life left in them even though they had 11K miles on them. Sold them for 1K and recouped some of the cost of the new tires.

Changed out the 35 x 12.50 Pro Comp Xtreme MT2 tires for some 295/65 20 Toyo AT2 Xtremes. They are .5" taller than the pro comps, .5" narrower and 12lbs lighter. Noise and Ride is alot better as well. I also have some chrome center caps coming for the wheels to mix it up a little. If anyone is curious, dropping 12 lbs per tire comes out to 1.5mpg increase.