TightLines612

Was in my friends truck yesterday with 25k miles on it and his just started making this popping noise when placed in reverse. I'll be sending this to him pronto.

Polarity was switched on the signal from the vehicle to the lights. All fixed.

Having a bit of trouble with a TRS/Morimoto HID install. Had a 2014 Sierra SLT that the following system was being used in: 9006: Morimoto Elite HID System -2 x AMP: Morimoto 3Five DSP -2 x 9006: 3Five 4300K $0.00 -2 x Canbus: 9006 $0.00 System was removed from the 2014 and placed in a 2015 Sierra SLT today. I can't for the life of me get the lights to work. Fuse looks good and after speaking with TRS I hit my ground contacts with sandpaper to remove some paint and ensure a good connection. Any ideas? Did anything change from 2014 - 2015 that would prevent the system above from working? Thanks in advance.

Deleted - wrong thread.

The ticking at idle is a completely different noise. An update after having the lifters replaced. The noise was no where to be found for probably 250 - 300 miles. That had not happened since the noise first started. I was beginning to think the problem had been solved when it gradually came back. The ticking has returned, only in V4, and again, at various speeds. It is not as loud and much more infrequent than before. Truck is currently in the shop because it won't turn over (tried several batteries, and a new starter). We really love the truck when it works as intended but we've had entirely too many serious problems for 12,000 miles. What a damn headache for a $45k truck.

So far, so good. Will do another 500 miles on the truck this weekend and if there are no signs of it then I'm giving it a clean bill of health. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

Quick update: Received truck back from dealer this AM after repairs for a "sticking lifter" as the suspected culprit. Too early to tell definitely but so far the truck has been tick free. I'll update next week once it's got some more miles on it. Here's a blurb from the service ticket in case it helps anyone else: "REF DOC ID 4067127 / TAC CASE 71-1478009075 PIP5259D/4138819 REFERENCE LIFTERS MAKING A TAPPING NOISE. PER SPECIAL BULLETIN #15-06-01-002. DOC ID #4213285. AND TAC CASE, REMOVE CYLINDER HEADS, REPLACE ALL LIFTERS, AND FILLED COOLING SYSTEM, AND ROAD TESTED."

Mine happens with or without a load, hot or cold outside, hot or cold engine temp, A/C on and A/C off. Nothing seems to affect it. Again, still waiting on an appointment to address what their mechanic suspects is a sticking lifter (1 1/2 months later).

Nearly a month later and I'm still waiting on parts before they try to fix the "sticking lifter" Anyone else make any headway here?

Had my truck into the dealer today for it's 3rd ride along as the service techs are having trouble hearing the ticking. It's very distinct to my family but perhaps we're tuned into it. I had a recording of the noise and they suggested it could be a sticking lifter. They called GM and they have had this issue before on these trucks and have recommended replacing the lifters. Good news is they think they have a fix, bad news is it seems to be a complicated surgery. I'll be in touch in a few weeks when it's all said and done.

Any theory at this point is appreciated. Let us know how it goes.

Bumping this up in case anyone has found a solution.

Had the truck in for the V4 to V8 chirp. They fixed it with the updated exhaust system and told me it also fixed the ticking. Absolutely didn't change a thing (my wife claims it's worse) so I'll be giving the dealer a call tomorrow.

Al - interesting thought. I'll give it a try when the truck comes back.

I'd be very surprised but I'm not mechanic. Truck is in the shop now for the second time trying to solve the chirp from V4 to V8. Time will tell.

I'll add that I hear the noise in the EXACT same place and it can be heard from the passenger side of the cabin. Noise while giving it slight acceleration while staying in V4. Can occasionally be heard in V8 but most noticeable in V4. This is NOT the same issue as the DI clicking at idle.

Also trying to diagnose this problem at the moment. Truck has just under 10k miles and the ticking has started in the past 2k. Did you ever get anywhere with this?

tbarn - if you could keep us updated and even document the install I know it would be greatly appreciated. FWIW - I just had the parts department call me about something else and the fellow all but refused to even order these parts for me (just a hypothetical as I'm supposed to have access to them at cost). He didn't think any install would work, thought I'd have to buy new seats, thought I'd try to return the parts which we wouldn't allow, and THEN said if they didn't fit I could always decline the charge on my card. Unbelievable customer service there....

While I don't have a completely uniform beam pattern at close distances (say on a garage door) my lights do not have the problems (at least to the extent you describe). Did you ensure the tabs on the bulbs were fully twisted in when installing? Perhaps they were out of alignment.

I only have limited experience with mine so far but no interference to speak of.

Boys are all out enjoying their consoles....

Just wrapped up installation of Morimoto 35W 4300K lights in a Sierra SLT and thought I'd pass along a few things: 1) Color matches LED DRL's very well. I was skeptical about this but it was certainly the right choice. Thanks MotoMedic 2) I did NOT have to flip the terminals coming out of the stock input (that is, I wired red to red, and black to black) 3) I ordered the kit with the Can-bus and it is working just fine. TRS suggests the Mopar Elite Low Beam kit but I'm not sure why. YMMV 4) I ordered the 9006 style bulbs. This required taking a dremel to one of the three ceramic tabs on the bulb to get it to line up correctly. It was a minimal amount of work (less than 30 seconds) but to do over again, I'd order the 9012 and skip the dremeling. Now a question, when switching from low beam to high beam, something near the lights (likely ballasts) make a solid shuttering sound audible in the cabin at idle. High beams operate as expected. I've never retrofitted HID's, is this normal?

Unfortunately the G4 Elite DOES cover the stake holes. Covers the fronts fully and the backs partially. This actually caused me headache during install as I thought I'd done something wrong alignment wise. The cover is just wider at front than at the rear. I wish they would have mentioned it in the instructions as it add probably 30% to my install time, taking it off, making sure I hadn't made a mistake, etc. I found there was no perfect tonneau choice if you wanted water tight and a reputable company. It's a series of compromises, you just have to find what works best for you. For me it was the G4 and I do not regret it.

Moto, Not sure of the implications but my setup (which we've discussed) would not run according to your 3) above. Instead, I had to keep red to red and black to black from the stock output into the plug near light and then into the canbus.

If you read through this whole thread you'll see that some like it, some have had problems, and others have sworn off the due to bad customer service / experience with prior products. For the same price, I picked up a Fold-a-Cover G4 elite and am happy with it.