Silverado-Hareek

It may help a little technically because the baffle design is doing "something" but there was guy that posted pictures of his valves after removing the intake manifold and they were quite dirty with build-up. So I'd argue the improvement isn't much to feel good about. Probably designed to help the engine last 100,000 miles......

No you only need it if you have a turbo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read the thread. They're only "rendering it right" for certain VIN #'s they deem to have an issue. The rest of us just have "normal" pre-mature frame rust that we have to live with as they quietly address the issue on later builds.

Yeah I thought about calling the parts department and asking but got lazy with how easy it was to just check out and have it shipped haha. It very well could be available at the dealers.

I just came across this : https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b That appears to be the product to patch the wax coating if you need to touch it up. I think I'm going to order a can. EDIT: Just went ahead and bought a can. It was about $28 with shipping. I'll touch up the rust spots on the frame the next time I get a free weekend to get under there and work on it.

Oh I see. Well keep us posted on how it turns out. Good luck!

If your wax is gone that bad you should qualify for the proper TSB fix of re-coating the entire frame with that 3 part system that takes like 72 hours to perform. Mine didn't qualify for that the dealer just hit the rust spots with some 3M rubberized coating.

yeah I'm looking into the stuff from GM which is a rubberized type coating. Be careful with paint I read somewhere that can cause the wax to peel off if you coat the wax with it. You're only supposed to treat bare metal spots with any paint. Again I read that somewhere though I do not have first hand experience with any of this. This is the stuff from GM: http://trailerpartstogo.com/12346501-gmanti-corrosioncoating-11oz.aspx

Unless these trucks start snapping in half like the Toyotas and GM's hand is forced by the government like they did to Toyota, I wouldn't expect much out of GM. They've demonstrated over and over again that they will do their best to get out of issuing a recall for things unless people start dying from it or it's a cheap easy fix like a software update. They've most likely addressed it on later builds as people have pointed out here with their 2015 wax coatings and us early adopters of the 2014's will be left out to dry.

Are those holes forming in the frame from the rust?

Most likely. I swear this is the last first edition vehicle I ever buy from any manufacturer. If it hasn't been out for at least a model year or 2, I'm walking away.

Do you have a 5.3 or 6.2? If 5.3, you won't see oil at the throttle body and intake because the PCV line is connected to the driver's side valley cover about halfway back. My throttle body was spotless on my 5.3 but my catch can is catching all kinds of crap. It's not just affecting certain models it's all DI engines regardless of make or model and Toyota seems to be the only manufacturer to attempt addressing the issue by designing a system that periodically sprays fuel on the back of the valves. While that may help clean the valves, it doesn't do anything to stop this crap from entering the engine to begin with though. Only a catch can will do that. After seeing the results of my can, I'm sold on using one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that was me I think that said Toyota had developed a system that sprays fuel on the backside of the valves every so often to clean them. The problem is I'm having a hard time identifying which engines/models have this system. If the Tundra has it, I would definitely keep my eye on it to see how the reliability is over the next few years. Other than that, I don't know of any manufacturer that has addressed the problem with valve buildup. Any consumer with a direct injection engine should consider the BG induction service every 15,000 miles at a minimum. If you can throw a catch can into the mix, even better.

I think they've been using wax longer than that. Late 80's early 90's maybe? I feel like I read that somewhere I don't know for sure though.

I never had any vibration issues with my 2007 fully boxed frame and my current 2014 doesn't have any vibration issues other than the tires occasionally depending on the temperature outside. That will go away for good when I replace the tires. The vibration issues people are having with these trucks are related to the drive train and the frame won't change those conditions if something is out of balance or a part is failing the rear differential. I'd rather have a stiffer frame than one that flexes any day of the week. I personally don't have a problem with the wax coating if it's applied correctly. It was never an issue on my 2007. My dad's 2003 suburban barely has any rust on it because Chevy did a better job then of applying the wax and probably used a better product as well. Guys up north with heavily salted winter roads should worry more with their 2014 and up trucks but if you're around the Virginia latitude and south, you should be ok. It will be 20+ years before rust becomes a structural issue in these areas of the country and this truck will be long gone by the 10 year mark if that.

http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2014/Oct/1002-silverado-strength.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a fully boxed frame, not c channels. That's one of the reasons they dip it in wax to properly coat the interior surfaces of the boxed frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The good news: I did the BG induction service yesterday and the truck seems to be running great afterwards, no issues so far *knocks on wood* The bad news: I could not get before and after pictures of the valves. The way the intake is designed on these engines, you can't get the borescope in there because of all the bends and turns. We would have had to remove the intake manifold to see the valves and I wasn't about to do that on an engine with only 15k miles. So the catch can debate will have to rage on. I will say I have not really noticed much of an improvement with the truck as others have reported. It honestly wasn't really running bad before I did the service, I just wanted to get in before 15k miles to take advantage of BG's warranty. So if guys without catch cans are noting an improvement in performance after the service and I'm not noticing much of anything, I'd argue that's evidence in favor of the catch can doing what people say it should be doing....keeping the valves clean. I only had 11,500 miles on the truck when I installed the catch can so there wasn't much time for a lot of build-up to happen and dramatically affect performance, although I don't doubt that some buildup did occur and the service yesterday took care of it. EDIT: Forgot to add it was about $78 in materials and $117 in labor for the BG service so $195 total. You have to get your oil changed as well afterwards so factor that into the total if you're considering doing this service.

The good news: I did the BG induction service yesterday and the truck seems to be running great afterwards, no issues so far *knocks on wood* The bad news: I could not get before and after pictures of the valves. The way the intake is designed on these engines, you can't get the borescope in there because of all the bends and turns. We would have had to remove the intake manifold to see the valves and I wasn't about to do that on an engine with only 15k miles. So the catch can debate will have to rage on. I will say I have not really noticed much of an improvement with the truck as others have reported. It honestly wasn't really running bad before I did the service, I just wanted to get in before 15k miles to take advantage of BG's warranty. So if guys without catch cans are noting an improvement in performance after the service and I'm not noticing much of anything, I'd argue that's evidence in favor of the catch can doing what people say it should be doing....keeping the valves clean. I only had 11,500 miles on the truck when I installed the catch can so there wasn't much time for a lot of build-up to happen and dramatically affect performance, although I don't doubt that some buildup did occur and the service yesterday took care of it. I'm going to post this in the catch can thread as well. EDIT: Forgot to add it was about $78 in materials and $117 in labor for the BG service so $195 total. You have to get your oil changed as well afterwards so factor that into the total if you're considering doing this service.

I was wrong man it's behind the passenger side wheel well liner about halfway up the firewall. A black rubber nozzle sticking out and turning down 90 degrees like an elbow fitting. And I guess mine is draining fine since this is where I saw water on the frame the other day and the wheel well miner was wet....I had assumed something over flowed. I'm going to get my mechanic to shoot air up there while it's in the shop tomorrow just to be safe. I really feel like the truck used to drain more water. There were noticeably large water spots on the ground and I just don't see them anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought a cheap air compressor at lunch today from Lowe's. I'm going to try to blow out my condensate line tonight after work and see what happens. I'll report back.

Ok yeah I didn't plan well for this. I did the dealer free oil change a few weeks ago and you're supposed to change oil after the bg service so now I have to pay to change it again after only 800 miles. Oh well. Next year I'll be able to do them both at the same time since I'll be done with the dealer changes and will be going to my side mechanic by then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scheduled a service appointment with my mechanic for tomorrow to do the BG treatment. I'm hoping to get some before and after pictures from his borescope. I will report the findings here if I do. When you did your BG service, did they change your oil afterwards?

Crawl under your truck by the passenger seat and look up kind of in the middle and just behind the engine bay....you should see a black hose or drip tube hanging down. Guessing 3/8" diameter. I need to figure out a way to shoot compressed air in mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

False alarm. Looks like it's backing up and that's what I saw dripping. Hopefully it's not backing up into the cab under the carpet like my old dodge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk