Silverado-Hareek

It's serviceable but not without completely removing it and you can't see the inside of the can. But yes you can spray carbeurator cleaner inside and shake it up and then rinse it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't need a dual outlet catch can. The base engine with the stock PVC system functions the same way as if you introduced a single outlet catch can in the PCV line, just without the filtration of the catch can.

No I'm saying the $3,000 price tag to get the Z71 package isn't really worth it from an off-road standpoint. But since there are no real aftermarket plates of any kind for these trucks, yes I would definitely pay the $170 to have some kind of protection.

I don't think these exist in the research I've done. You'd have to get them custom fabricated. I agree though for a lot less money, you can add the benefits of the Z71 package for much less than the cost of the package. In my opinion, the only reason to pay up for the Z71 package at all is to get the less chrome-y grill and the carbon fiber looking gauge cluster. But the Rancho shocks are garbage, the "skid plates" are laughable, and you can't get stock size BF Goodrich KO tires for the 18" rims in load range D. I wish I had the 17" rims from my old truck, and I'm eventually adding Bilstien shocks and replacing this Rancho junk.

Yes having the 5.3 does matter. You likely won't find oil on your throttle body because the inlet port for the PCV gases is located about halfway back on the driver side valley cover. On the 6.2, the port is located right at the top of the throttle body which is why those engines see a ton of oil there. Either way, your engine valves on the inside likely look exactly the same as a 6.2 or any other direct injection engine on the market without an oil catch can or that hasn't had any type of an induction cleaning service done. I would still recommend installing a catch can ASAP and consider doing a BG induction service every 15,000 miles.

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process. There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

This is the imposter RX catch can website: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/ DO NOT BUY THEIR PRODUCTS!

Thanks for the input guys I texted him this information and the diagrams you posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone here looked into Corksport catch cans? My cousin is getting ready to put one on his Mazda Speed 3. This brand appears to be pretty popular with the Mazda folks.

Interesting thanks for the education man. I definitely want to add a CSS at some point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh ok. Is that to maximize the vacuum force with the throttle body all the way open? Less suction if it's further away from the throttle body?

So in the case of my truck where I have the original airbox and not an aftermarket tube like you, would I just connect the 2nd outlet hose from the catch can to the inlet port on the passenger side of the air box assuming I have a clean side separator connected to the port on the driver side? And do you need a clean side separator for this set up to work? It seems you would.

I thought the point of a catch can is to keep contaminants and oil in the PCV gases from entering your combustion chamber and reducing horsepower and performance due to the contaminants' affect on the combustion process and the engine compensating for the presence of those contaminants. Which is why race car drivers use them to help eliminate variables from the combustion process and give the engineers more control over the performance of the vehicle to maximize power and efficiency. In the case of DI engines, there's an added side benefit of keeping your valves clean since these contaminants aren't making contact with the valves which can't be cleaned by fuel washing over them as it would in port injection engines. In the case of your modification, deposits wouldn't touch your valves in either your original setup or your modified setup because of the presence of the catch can and the fact that PCV gases have to be routed through the can regardless in either of your scenarios. What I'm understanding in your modification is that in cases of WOT when there is no vacuum effect from the intake manifold, normally this would just shut down the PCV system all together but you're modifying it so that a vacuum force remains thus continuing the evacuation of gases from the crankcase where they otherwise would remain until your PCV system activates again when you're not in WOT anymore. So this modification just keeps the contaminants from settling in your crankcase while the PCV system is shut down. I agree that would extend the life of your oil by keeping it cleaner. Is my understanding correct? I'm not judging or anything like that man, I'm just trying to understand what this modification does.

No need to freak out. Just call you dealer and make an appointment to get the update done ASAP. In the mean time, just make sure to switch your truck back to 2WD before shutting it off. You can put it back in 4WD after you start it again and just repeat that process until you get the update. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you're just protecting your oil from extra contamination but this doesn't change anything with regards to protecting the valves from build up correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Temperature shouldn't affect performance of the can unless you forget to empty it and let it fill up too much and freeze. But with the inlet and outlet ports located at the top, air should always flow through just fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mean you can't just run a hose straight into the cylinders. There needs to be some kind of engineered piping system with a check valve if some sort to prevent back pressure. I don't know all the details but they should consider designing a system that safely routes the gases that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My mechanic had a good thought....why not route the PCV gases directly into the cylinders? "Direct injection" for the PCV system so to speak. It would accomplish the same goal but eliminate the valve buildup issue. Engineers need to consider this approach. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My RX can came with "FUEL VAPOR [PCV/EEC] 3/8 INCH (9.5mm) SAE 30R7" hose Whatever that means. But it doesn't oval and I don't hear any hissing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those that say they love their Ranchos have never had Bilstiens. If you did, you wouldn't be saying you love the Ranchos at all and I truly believe that. The stock Ranchos are junk. I'm pretty sure at 23,000 miles mine are completely shot. If they aren't, that's a testament to just how bad these shocks really are. The only reason I haven't swapped them for Bilstiens yet is because I've had other expenses take precedence in my budget this year. It's tough to really put the difference into words....it's a feeling that's tough to describe. But in my attempt to describe it for you, Bilstiens seem to make the truck handle better, especially when taking corners, and they settle wheel hop better than any other shock I've ever experienced which gives you better traction and control of the vehicle. They also have a lifespan of like 100,000 miles before ever needing changing as opposed to most other brands of shocks which need replaement anywhere between 30,000 and 75,000 miles max.

GDI Tech thanks for all of your input. Do you have any thoughts about my post quoted above and the assumptions I've made about the BG induction service?

Some very good information posted from GDI. Thank you for the input. I heard from Tracy at RX the same sentiments about using cleaners like BG and CRC, etc. However, my personal opinion (as non-mechanic that just reads stuff on the internet) is that the serious problems caused by loose deposits after using these cleaners happen when people use them for the first time after high mileage. BG offers a $4,000 warranty for your engine if you use their system within the the first 15,000 miles and within every 15,000 mile interval after that for as long as you own the vehicle. Let's be honest about warranties: they're like casinos where the odds are in the house's favor. BG can offer this warranty because they've likely done studies that prove using it early and often and does not harm the engine because you never allow a big amount of deposits to build up, thus they don't have to spend any money to fix your engine. Throw a catch can into the mix and your engine is even more protected and spotless when you use a combination of the 2. In my opinion, these cleaners are safe but only if you use them early and often, which GDI stated. Although they stated using it within the first 5,000 miles but I think based on BG's offerings that the safe limit is 15,000 miles and they've likely built a factor of safety into that as well so they're not offering a warranty and cutting it real close to the mileage limit. You're probably safe to do it within 20,000 or 25,000 miles but they'll say 15,000 to definitely protect themselves and sell more product. With that being said, BG makes no mention of a warranty for your exhaust system and catalytic converters. Those could potentially be getting clogged up from the process regardless of when you do the cleanings but I'm not 100% sure on that.

I think they do. I thought they come equipped with catch cans and their service manual recommends induction services like BG to clean the engine. I could be wrong though..

Diesel is DI by design. Only Chevy that isn't DI I think is the 2500 with the Vortec gas engine. And the EPA average miles per gallon are increasing constantly but the laws of physics are staying the same. Trucks can't shed any more weight and still do the work they're designed to do....they need mass. Thus they need different engine technology to save fuel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think you'll have much of a choice unfortunately. In the quest for fuel savings under new EPA regulations, I think eventually all gas engines will become DI. Most of what is being sold today across manufacturers is DI already.