POS VETT

E85 most of the time. So far, 93 has been used only for a few tanks and will only be used sparingly. I will not use any octane-level lower than 93.

Thanks! My buddy did much of the work. After clay bar, he started with a 2500 grit, then 4000. Menzerna 105 was also used, but I think it was for rougher spots. He used two polishers, one is a Rupe and the other had a Griotts Garage brand on it. Paint condition was not bad. I bought the truck on Dec 1 last year and I told the dealer not to prep and not to touch it. It paid and the paint was in a decent shape. Some light scratches, but absent of holograms. Since I had a 600-mile drive home, I took the time to create a bra made of blue painter's tape (photo below) and I'm glad I did. The same buddy installed the clear bra about two weeks after the truck got home, so there was no stone chips. Between then and last week, the truck was driven in Ohio winter. Surface was somewhat rough with contaminants, was grime-laden, salt/water spotted (I rinsed the truck at the end of the day when driven and when weather allowed), but under all those, it was still in a decent shape. The massive panels were what took so long to cover. I suggested skipping the roof panel between the rails to save time, but he wouldn't have any of it. So, it got a quick buff (not even clay bar since it didn't have contaminants), a wipe of alcohol, and 22PLE.

Paint correction is basically what it sounds like. Correcting or "removing" the surface imperfections such as contaminants, scratches, holograms, water spots, hazing or dry spots, etc. The process cleans the surface and cuts the clear coat; it minimizes deep scratches and creates a shiny and smooth paint surface which is then ready for application for sealant and wax application. In this case, it's a semi-permanent coating of 22PLE.

A friend who's a detailer corrected the paint on my '15 and applied glass coating (22PLE).

Could you please type it down what you did?

Here is mine after 2 days of paint correction and glass coating (22PLE) application.

2008 model year is a GMT900, this is for the K2XX.

GM has experiences with seat covers overheating when heaters running without an occupant. So, now seat heaters in our truck won't go full power until there is certain weight placed on the seat.

Why were the rear bumpstops a pain? To trim or to remove?

I like that look. Would you elaborate which kit was used and whether additional steps/mods had done?

No vent/drain that I saw when mine were in the replacement process.

I can almost bet money the water came through the leak at the multi-band antenna on the roof.

If it was a coil, your inline spark tester wouldn't have lit up.

Less than a week was all the dealer took to get a pair in.

I don't like the additional rubber bushings. Prove me wrong, but the additional rubber bushings would introduce more lateral axle movement.

I'd put both back if I were you.

If you swap the wire #4 with one from another cylinder, does the code follow the wire #4? Spark will still jump if the wire is "leaky", however the spark plug won't ignite.

They wouldn't do anything past replacing the headlight pod and adjusting the beam. Take the HID out, replace the caps with unaltered ones.

Be careful, electricity flowing the wrong way will cause damages especially in the wrong pin. Check three times, plug in once.

I'm hard-pressed to believe that the front springs are installed with zero pre-load; this situation may cause damage. Adjusting spring perch would affect ride height but not in a linear way like a shock body with adjustable length.

Raising/lowering the spring perch increases the spring pre-load. If the length of the shock body could be adjusted, changing ride height would not change spring pre-load. I had never thought about the effect of spring pre-load on upper ball joint. My quick thinking is that spring pre-load by itself wouldn't affect upper ball-joint directly; unless the resulting lift or lowering pushed the operation range of ball-joint angle to the limit and beyond (too much lift or lowering).

That seemed to be a case in a turbocharged engine with a bunch of boost. The catch can must have been installed without a one-way valve, one-way valve installed backward, or the one-way valve was allowed to remain open. The result is the crankcase is pressurized as much as the turbocharger provides and creating seal problem. This is a problem related to either a mistake in installation or component failure. Adding a catch can by its own doesn't create the aforementioned problem.

I tied the fog light relay to parking light relay (pin 22) instead of high beam relay (pin 18). Thanks to Magoomba for sending a diode.

$90 at sdparts.com.

Yep, mine were replaced a couple of weeks ago. The condensation hasn't returned since.