Trza

I have Bilsteins on all 4 corners. This is mine set at the 2.5 height in the front. Prior to the Bilsteins, I had a 2 inch under strut Readylift spacer with stock shocks. The Bilsteins are a much better ride. I've never ran them at the 2 inch setting, but I've heard that its a bit more forgiving. I went with the full 2.5 because I've read from a couple people that the 2 inch setting doesn't quite get you a full 2 inches. If you are worried about the ride, you could always keep the shocks at stock height and run a top spacer. Stock was too floaty and was terrible at recovering from large bumps. Under strut spacer + stock shocks were a bit stiff. Bllsteins at top setting feel great to me ?

Um...if you install this intake with the intake cover off. It is loud. There is no question about that! The filter cone is as big as a small trash can and sounds great at full throttle when it's sucking in air. I've had mine for about 10k and It's easily my favorite mod...makes driving so much fun. I have it paired to a AFE Apollo GT muffler and am very happy with the overall sound and throttle response. It's worth the wait!

Awesome! Welcome to the club ?

Yeah. It was an easy install! I used a reciprocating saw with a Diablo metal cutting blade and it cut right through the piping with barely any pressure. Like Firehawk said, if you plan on cutting out the flapper, cut in front of the flapper. The pipe bulges a bit in front of the flapper where its factory welded, so make sure to cut before it bulges (toward front of truck), it then flares a bit before straightening out. At first I cut after the bulge and the muffler didn't fit. I had to make a second cut not realizing the small flare. There is quite a bit of room to play with, don't worry about it being short. On the backside of the muffler, cut it as flush as you can to the muffler. I used a saw so I had at least 1, if not 2 inches off the muffler since I couldn't physically get the saw any closer to make a straight cut...again, lots of room to play with. Make sure to have a jack to hold the muffler up once you make the first cut. Make sure to check the clamps. The biggest clamp goes at the rear of the muffler. The other 2 are the same size and go on opposite ends. It's a great muffler. Really happy with it. I can't believe how quiet it is on the highway and cruising, zero drone...but when you step on it, coupled with my S&B intake, you can really hear it. The throttle response is much better too, I had a little bit of stalling where you can feel the engine almost stutter before power delivery, now its gone. And I can't even tell if there's a change in sound with the flapper gone. It was noticeable in my 2015. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I'm supposed to receive mine on Monday. Just to confirm, the instructions say to cut the rear 2.75 inches from the rear of the muffler, but you are saying cut it as flush to the rear of the muffler as you can in order to make room for cutting out the flapper? And in the front chop it just before the flapper and it should leave enough room? Are the supplied clamps good enough or should I buy some of the 3 inch long band clamps that Amazon sells? Thanks!

Removed the Readylift 2 inch under strut spacer and installed Bilstein 5100's in the front. Set them at the top 2.5 inch level and am really happy with the ride. Much better than stock. I like them so much, I ordered a set of 5100's for the rear as well. Hopefully the swap will get rid of the squirrely rear end.

I ordered the same muffler on Black Friday directly from AFE's website. They are currently out of stock and are producing more. I was told...5 weeks out. Haven't decided if I should cancel the order or not. I'm sure there's some kicking around somewhere.

I had to replace one of my splash guards. Its been said already, best way to get the rivet off is to drill out the rivet head, and the rest will slide out. New splash guards from the dealer come with new rivets which you would need a rivet gun to install. I'm thinking about replacing my splash guards with the regular mud guards. I have a little bit of rub, even with the mud flap brackets removed. The regular mud guards seem to have a bit more room.

Finally decided on a set of running boards/sliders. I didn't like the look of the stock boards and felt that they stuck out too much. I'm tall enough that I don't use boards and always seem to bang my leg up against them, however, I needed something for the kids. Picked up a set of Go Rhino Dominator DSS sliders and am really happy with them. They are more flush than stock, protect the sides of the vehicle from debris and the kids can use them when needed.

I pinned back the flapper valve to full open today and noticed better throttle response. As well, the helicopter sound, when the truck is in the lower RPMs, has been reduced. Overall, it sounds better, and feels like the power comes on smoother. If you have the S&B, I'd recommend opening up the flapper!

Got mine installed last night and left the box plug off as well. Man, does it sound good! I test drove it last night and a little this morning and did not notice any vibration at all. Normal cruising its barely noticeable, but as soon as you step on it, it has a nice deep growl. I ran an Airaid Jr. intake on my 15 Sierra and the S&B is noticeably louder. Testing it out last night, I chirped the tires which surprised me since I was never able to do it as easily stock. Throttle response has improved quite a bit, which is what I was mostly after. The power seems to finally be available as soon as you push the pedal. Overall, I am extremely impressed with the fit, finish, quality and ease of installation. And for the price, it's hard to beat.

My S&B intake comes in tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some time to install it later in the evening. I'll have to keep my eye out for the vibrating pedal. Did you guys install the optional box plug or leave it open for more airflow? Just wondering if anyone has experimented with the box open vs closed. Is the extra airflow noticeable in sound and throttle response etc. Thanks. Can't wait to get it installed!

I've got the 2 inch under strut Readylift spacer on my Elevation. No problems with it so far. I don't do any off roading so I'm not too concerned about it. I'll change it out as soon as more height adjustable shocks options come to market, but for now its fine for what I use my truck for.

My previous 2015 All Terrain had a bad 1-2 shift every now and then. I now have a 19 Elevation with a 06/19 build date and the 8 speed has been extremely smooth. I test drove a baby Duramax 10 speed Denali before buying the 19 Elevation and really didn't notice much a difference in the shifts....however, the low end torque and pull from a red light on the 3.0 is a different animal altogether!

I'm in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

It's probably only going to get worse. You also don't want the water to accumulate, damage the headliner and potentially have mold build up. I would get it checked out and if the dealership is willing to change out the glass completely then might as well get it done. From what others are reporting, the full glass replacement seems to be the only real solution. I had my glass replacement done a few days ago. We've had some really bad storms up here in Edmonton lately and *knock on wood* its been bone dry. Good luck, hope you get it sorted!

Picked up some gloss meteor gray carbon fiber wrap and did the interior door trim. Bought it off of Amazon for roughly $15 for a 5 foot by 1 foot roll. The Vvivd air release tech is really easy to work with. Really easy to get any of the air bubbles out. Matches much better than the wood look!

Yup. My glass was replaced 2 days ago and the updated glass numbers seem to all match.

You fellas have room for one more in the window leak club? Before purchasing my 19 Elevation, I did my homework and read all about the leaks and 8 speed transmission problems. Thought I picked out a gem, transmission has been baby smooth and no signs of any leakage until I hit 1500km's. After 1 month of ownership and a couple heavy days of rain, I saw water running down the drivers side rear corner window. Long story short, the truck was in the shop on May 26. I was told the window was on backorder, but there was 1 window available at a different dealership that they would try to get for me, otherwise it was unknown how long sourcing a window would take. Took the truck home and was told to hang tight for a phone call. Took the truck home, had multiple conversations with GM customer service. I was then notified by the dealer that they were able to pry the window away from another dealer and was booked on June 9 for the install. The window was installed by a 3rd party glass company. Meanwhile, as I was waiting for the window, it rained 6 out of the 14 days that I had my truck out of the shop. Luckily, the headliner didn't see any water damage and I kept a towel along the backseat to soak up any of the leakage. As well, no odor or rust on the seat bolts. As well, I was told they also had to source a windshield and keep one handy just in case they break the stock one as they might have to remove the headliner and as we all know, it can only be removed by taking the windshield out. However, since there was no damage to the headliner, they would assess to see if there was any damage once they open her up. The truck was kept overnight on June 9th and I was called early in the morning June 10th to let me know that the truck was done. Before picking up the truck I asked them to do a leak test with a hose. It passed the test. I have to say, I am beyond surprised at the quality job they did. It looked exactly like it did when I dropped it off. No scratches anywhere, no sealant exposed anywhere. Leather seats unharmed. On the way home, I took her through a high pressure touch less car wash. Not a drop...fingers crossed this is permanent. 2019 Elevation, build date June, 2019. 3 piece window with slider. Original glass, FUYAO 43R0115130 E2 After glass, FUYAO 43R000072 E4 Headliner did not need to be removed. No damage to headliner, looks perfect. If anyone is in central Alberta and is in need of a replacement, message me and I'll give you the dealership name and contacts.

I've got a 19 Elevation so some of the stock halogen bulbs were starting to bug me. I started with the license plate lights a week ago. Today, I changed out the front signal lights with amber LEDs, the rear signal/stop lights with red LEDs and the backup/reverse lights with white LEDs. All bulbs had built in Canbus, are error free and threw no codes. I bought them off of Amazon; ordered them Saturday night and they arrived at 7:40am Monday! There were so many options to choose from so if anyone's interested, I have attached a pic of the bulbs I purchased. The reverse bulbs came in a little plastic wrapper. While the signal bulbs came in the boxes pictured. Literally took me under 10 minutes to switch all the bulbs over. Man, what a difference!

North Shore bike rack. I only have 4 in my family but they do make a 6 bike version. I like that it keeps the bed free for cargo like camping supplies, suitcases etc. and that it keeps the bikes close to the truck. It's super easy to get the bikes off and on, keeps the bikes tight and secure and they don't bang into each other causing damage.

Headlights and fog lights are stock. Must be the picture that makes them look darker. However, I had a light smoke film on my 2015 Sierra's headlights and it took quite a bit of light away. I installed Rigid Industries driving fog lights and had to have them on all the time to have decent night time visibility.

After a few days of heavy rain, I finally got her washed up and put on a coat of ceramic wax. Got paint matched mirrors recently too. I have a love hate relationship with black.

Got them from a local dealership. First, make sure to use painters tape to mask off the areas under the cap. This will avoid any scratches to the mirror. Next, I found that there was more space closest to the window to get the pry tool under the cap. From there, it was a simple pop, then work the cap off from the window side and out towards the street. Once you create enough space, you can get your fingers under and pull back (towards the hood). Its scary at fist because it sounds like you broke every tab off when it pops off, but for some reason, its just really loud! Much easier than disassembling the whole unit as I've seen on some YouTube videos...I literally had half a granola bar hanging out of my mouth when I did this ?

Swapped out the black side mirror caps for paint matched ones. Easy 5 minute install with a trim tool. No broken tabs.