Trza started following S&B Cold Air Intake and Bilstein 5100 (24-309509) adjustable shock question
I have Bilsteins on all 4 corners. This is mine set at the 2.5 height in the front. Prior to the Bilsteins, I had a 2 inch under strut Readylift spacer with stock shocks. The Bilsteins are a much better ride. I've never ran them at the 2 inch setting, but I've heard that its a bit more forgiving. I went with the full 2.5 because I've read from a couple people that the 2 inch setting doesn't quite get you a full 2 inches. If you are worried about the ride, you could always keep the shocks at stock height and run a top spacer. Stock was too floaty and was terrible at recovering from large bumps. Under strut spacer + stock shocks were a bit stiff. Bllsteins at top setting feel great to me ?
Um...if you install this intake with the intake cover off. It is loud. There is no question about that! The filter cone is as big as a small trash can and sounds great at full throttle when it's sucking in air. I've had mine for about 10k and It's easily my favorite mod...makes driving so much fun. I have it paired to a AFE Apollo GT muffler and am very happy with the overall sound and throttle response. It's worth the wait!
Awesome! Welcome to the club ?
Yeah. It was an easy install! I used a reciprocating saw with a Diablo metal cutting blade and it cut right through the piping with barely any pressure. Like Firehawk said, if you plan on cutting out the flapper, cut in front of the flapper. The pipe bulges a bit in front of the flapper where its factory welded, so make sure to cut before it bulges (toward front of truck), it then flares a bit before straightening out. At first I cut after the bulge and the muffler didn't fit. I had to make a second cut not realizing the small flare. There is quite a bit of room to play with, don't worry about it being short. On the backside of the muffler, cut it as flush as you can to the muffler. I used a saw so I had at least 1, if not 2 inches off the muffler since I couldn't physically get the saw any closer to make a straight cut...again, lots of room to play with. Make sure to have a jack to hold the muffler up once you make the first cut. Make sure to check the clamps. The biggest clamp goes at the rear of the muffler. The other 2 are the same size and go on opposite ends. It's a great muffler. Really happy with it. I can't believe how quiet it is on the highway and cruising, zero drone...but when you step on it, coupled with my S&B intake, you can really hear it. The throttle response is much better too, I had a little bit of stalling where you can feel the engine almost stutter before power delivery, now its gone. And I can't even tell if there's a change in sound with the flapper gone. It was noticeable in my 2015. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I'm supposed to receive mine on Monday. Just to confirm, the instructions say to cut the rear 2.75 inches from the rear of the muffler, but you are saying cut it as flush to the rear of the muffler as you can in order to make room for cutting out the flapper? And in the front chop it just before the flapper and it should leave enough room? Are the supplied clamps good enough or should I buy some of the 3 inch long band clamps that Amazon sells? Thanks!
Removed the Readylift 2 inch under strut spacer and installed Bilstein 5100's in the front. Set them at the top 2.5 inch level and am really happy with the ride. Much better than stock. I like them so much, I ordered a set of 5100's for the rear as well. Hopefully the swap will get rid of the squirrely rear end.
I ordered the same muffler on Black Friday directly from AFE's website. They are currently out of stock and are producing more. I was told...5 weeks out. Haven't decided if I should cancel the order or not. I'm sure there's some kicking around somewhere.
I had to replace one of my splash guards. Its been said already, best way to get the rivet off is to drill out the rivet head, and the rest will slide out. New splash guards from the dealer come with new rivets which you would need a rivet gun to install. I'm thinking about replacing my splash guards with the regular mud guards. I have a little bit of rub, even with the mud flap brackets removed. The regular mud guards seem to have a bit more room.
Finally decided on a set of running boards/sliders. I didn't like the look of the stock boards and felt that they stuck out too much. I'm tall enough that I don't use boards and always seem to bang my leg up against them, however, I needed something for the kids. Picked up a set of Go Rhino Dominator DSS sliders and am really happy with them. They are more flush than stock, protect the sides of the vehicle from debris and the kids can use them when needed.
I pinned back the flapper valve to full open today and noticed better throttle response. As well, the helicopter sound, when the truck is in the lower RPMs, has been reduced. Overall, it sounds better, and feels like the power comes on smoother. If you have the S&B, I'd recommend opening up the flapper!
Got mine installed last night and left the box plug off as well. Man, does it sound good! I test drove it last night and a little this morning and did not notice any vibration at all. Normal cruising its barely noticeable, but as soon as you step on it, it has a nice deep growl. I ran an Airaid Jr. intake on my 15 Sierra and the S&B is noticeably louder. Testing it out last night, I chirped the tires which surprised me since I was never able to do it as easily stock. Throttle response has improved quite a bit, which is what I was mostly after. The power seems to finally be available as soon as you push the pedal. Overall, I am extremely impressed with the fit, finish, quality and ease of installation. And for the price, it's hard to beat.
My S&B intake comes in tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some time to install it later in the evening. I'll have to keep my eye out for the vibrating pedal. Did you guys install the optional box plug or leave it open for more airflow? Just wondering if anyone has experimented with the box open vs closed. Is the extra airflow noticeable in sound and throttle response etc. Thanks. Can't wait to get it installed!
I've got the 2 inch under strut Readylift spacer on my Elevation. No problems with it so far. I don't do any off roading so I'm not too concerned about it. I'll change it out as soon as more height adjustable shocks options come to market, but for now its fine for what I use my truck for.
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My previous 2015 All Terrain had a bad 1-2 shift every now and then. I now have a 19 Elevation with a 06/19 build date and the 8 speed has been extremely smooth. I test drove a baby Duramax 10 speed Denali before buying the 19 Elevation and really didn't notice much a difference in the shifts....however, the low end torque and pull from a red light on the 3.0 is a different animal altogether!
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