CounterMeasure

I get about 12K miles on the fluid before mine starts really banging and clunking around often. I get the tranny serviced at the dealer, and there's an immediate improvement. Much smoother and way fewer bangs and clunks. Then it goes downhill as the miles add up and I rinse and repeat at the dealer.The dealer has told me many customers have commented on improvements after the service. The fluid isn't really discolored and no metal in the filter, so the transmissions are just susceptible to when the fluid or additives starts to break down a little bit.

My Denali with the 6.2 has had the same noise since day 1. Happens more when its cold or humid, and sometimes during acceleration. I've tracked it to the driver side exhaust manifold area. I think its a rattle inside the catalytic converter right here. Dealers won't do anything about it because they can't exactly pinpoint it and GM is using their standard "normal operating characteristic" escape card.

Part of me says it was the truck was trying to get your attention to the fuel gauge and fuel light. Given the pattern, seems like a short in the steering wheel buttons.

I just got my 2015 back from collapsed AFM lifter and bent pushrod on #6. The interesting thing is I never noticed a misfire or had the engine light come on. The tapping just got louder and louder. Drove it at least 8K miles with a noticeable tapping until I finally had enough of the noise and took it in. Even though it was only #6, they replaced all the AFM lifters. GM covered it under warranty *except* the oil filter. For whatever reason I got to pay for that. When I inquired about how often this happens, the techs all were in agreement that if you run it like you'd want to run the 6.2L, its likely to happen. Their belief is stepping on it while in V4, or WOT->V4 can cause things to get out of sync long enough for something to bind or bend. Their suggestion was to be more gentle in and out of V4, or disable V4 outright via a tune. I am going with option #3, different truck.

I have creaking too, just from the rears. If I am stopped, and apply more brake pedal, I can make it creak more. I thought it was just the passenger rear, so I pulled it apart, cleaned it all up, greased everything, but still does it. I am just counting the days until my Raptor makes it through the order process so I can get rid of this POS. Clunky transmission, noisy brakes, noisy suspension, and hot-ass rear seats in summer because of no vents, I've had enough.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169848-3-coil-wireless-charger-install-in-2015-sierra-denali/?p=1580372

Take a look at this how-to thread I created http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169848-3-coil-wireless-charger-install-in-2015-sierra-denali/.

I have a S7, and it charges fine in my truck.... ...because I installed my own 3-coil wireless charger under the mat.

It never hurts to ask the dealer if they will cover it or not. It shouldn't be expected to, as there's no warranty that the paint is road-debris resistant. That said, I totally agree with you that the paint on the bumper sucks. Its thin and its on a metal bumper, which has much less give than the paint on my '06 Tundra's front bumper. I had less than 10 chips in 10 years on my Tundra. I had 10 chips in the first two months on my Sierra.

My '15 also has issues with the passenger side. I cycle them a couple of times, and then it gets back in sync. I plan to bring it up to the dealership when I have to drop it off for the next thing that breaks in this truck. Its too much of a pain to drop it off and leave it there for just that, have them order a mirror, and then replace it.

Not sure how "grab end of cable, plug into phone, set phone in front tray" is easier than "drop phone flat on tray right next to arm". I've never had my S6 or S7 fly around in or out of the tray regardless of acceleration or deceleration.

Because they went with a cheap single coil charger, which dictates pad size. My 3-coil retrofit charger charges my S7 in its silicone case without issue.

This. It is what I did. I will likely never use it, as my trailer doesn't have brakes, but I didn't want the "empty" spot there to remind me I could have had it if I ended up having to get a trailer with brakes for some new toy to haul around. So the $200 was nothing on the $55K price. The only option I didn't order was the rear entertainment system. Would never use it, but then, it was $2000 instead of $200.

I drive dirt and limestone roads, so my frame looks the same. The dust sticks to the wax, but I've found a pressure wash will remove it. When I do the leaf springs and underside after getting back from the ranch, I hit the exposed frame as well. Just don't get too close.

Why wait? Requiring tires to wear in to road force balance is BS. Get them done by a good tire shop that's willing to take the time to find wheel and tire runout, set them, and balance them. Once I put a good set of Michelin tires on my truck by a shop that does quality balance work, its super smooth to drive even at our legal speeds of "posted 85mph +10 more".

I wish GM would realize they can't design a transmission worth a damn, and just use the German ZF trannies. I understand they based the 8L90 off the ZF 8HP, thinking they could make it better, but they were dead wrong on that. ZF's 6 speed in my wife's Hemi Charger, and their 8HP are a dream to drive. Smooth and predictable. In the 5 years we've owned the Charger, the transmission has never done a single thing that concerned me. No flares, no clunks, no bangs. My friends that have the 8 speed in their Hemi Rams love it, and I have to admit, when I've been in their trucks, I've listened hard for the tranny behavior. Never found anything that makes me think its "confused" or "sloppy". I'd kick a puppy if I could bolt one up to my 6.2L. GM's 8L90 speed was designed during their bankruptcy panic and needing a bailout, and I think the product's performance shows... I'd love to be a fly on the wall in the offices of the 8L90 team to see if the engineers think they did a wonderful job on it, or are ashamed to be associated with it. Based on my own career experiences, I would be willing to bet they know there are problems with it, and the hardware guys are blaming the software guys, and the software guys are blaming the hardware guys. Software is always used to patch hardware, because its cheaper.

Safelite glass is made to OEM dimensions, but that's pretty much all they claim. My experience with their glass is its way more wavy than OEM glass. I once had a piece installed on my Tundra that had a vertical wave right in driver vision. They fought with me, and finally replaced it. It was wavy just off the right. I replaced it with PPG glass, which was better, but not by much. I took a rock to my Denali's windshield last year, and had OEM glass put in. Cost me $700 installed, but its wave free, and its worth it to me.

Wow, so the capless system does not include a cover on the fill door to keep it clean? That's a new one to me. All the ones I've seen, including my wife's Charger, has a cover built into the door that keeps in clean. Given the fuel door itself doesn't seal, total GM design fail. The mechanical engineer that design it and/or approved it needs to turn in their engineering license(s)...

I just checked my paper, and they used 6qts 19353429 (Mobil 1 Synthetic Low Viscosity ATF HP) when they did mine. And they charged me 20.18/qt! I really wanted a flush, but they pulled the pan and changed the filter. I wasn't happy about that, but I had already been there 3 hours and was ready to go. Still drives much better than before. I will have to dig up the paperwork on when they changed the tranny 18 months ago to see what fluid they used. Dug out the Tranny R&R paperwork, and the fluid related line items are listed as: 1 19300536 fluid 4 19300536 fluid So its listed as only adding 5 quarts of an older part number, that is listed as Dexron HP ATF. I dunno...

My experience with the capless systems is they are overall a better design than a cap system. A cap works for its design; creating a seal and keeping debris out when tightened. But they don't do anything for dirt and dust that builds up on the filler neck, so any debris on the edge or on top has a chance to fall in once you remove the cap. The capless systems that completely cover the filler neck and seal on the compartment base prevent this from happening. If my next truck was capless, I'd be happy with that. To me, it means a simpler system that seals up even better and gives me a locking filler cover instead of me having to go buy a locking cap.

This morning, I took my truck in for the 35K oil change, and also had them change the tranny fluid out of habit and caution. A good number of miles pulling a trailer in hot weather, and I know the fluid never lasts as long as they claim. The sheet says they replaced the filter and put 6 quarts in it. I almost immediately noticed the truck drives entirely different now. Shifts are so much smoother, and no banging around. I took the long way home just to see, and it really is a different behavior. Still hunts the same, but hunts much smoother now. Didn't even have to disable grade breaking like I normally do. Before it was a nuisance doing low speed driving in the neighborhood, especially if cold. Makes me wonder if they came out with a new fluid or filter, or if mine had the wrong fluid in it originally when they replaced the whole transmission 22 months ago. We shall see if the good behavior continues...

My wife's 2012 Charger has it, and for the first year or so, I was concerned about debris or water. Four years later, not a single problem with it, and its quite handy to only have to push the button to open it and then close the door and be on your way. It can be done right and not have a single problem. Although, at this point, I don't trust GM to be able to do it right, but to do it cheap.

Yes, I have that noise too. Get it crusing at about 1500rpms and V4 and apply a little gas and it rattles like that. It does it when idle when cold or humid too. Very annoying. I am convinced its from the front cat on the driver's side. Dealerships haven't been able to find it and fix it, so I gave up.

I listened to the video, and it sounds very similar to me. What I hear comes right up through the driver side floorboard, and you can hear it perfectly in the driver front wheel well. It looks like there's a cat or resonator right off the manifold at the Y-pipe, and pressing on it causes the noise to stop. It is not an actual problem, but it is annoying given how quiet the truck is overall. I might just get a quote from the dealer to change it and the Y-pipe and pay out of pocket to avoid more of the "leave it with us, oh, we couldn't isolate it this morning, we'll try again tomorrow morning" to this point.

My '15 has made this driver-side rattle/chatter/chirp since day 1. It will do it at idle when cold, especially when humid/wet, and at certain RPMs with just a tiny bit of acceleration. I've tracked it to the exhaust up by the manifold on the driver's side. No loaner I've been in does it. The problem is I can't get a dealership to figure it out or acknowledge it as a problem and replace the exhaust.