ember1205

Using the frame of the trailer for grounding purposes is not an issue as "it works" and is why the manufacturers all do it. There's really zero reason to home-run all of the grounds back to a central point since the metal of the trailer already does that. The REAL problem with trailer grounding is that the ground wire from the harness that attached to the trailer frame always seems to get damaged and then you're relying on grounding of the wiring through the hitch back to the two vehicle's frame. Focus your efforts on ensuring that the main ground to the frame stays protected and attached and you should have no issues. You can always coat the attachments with grease or even have the underside of the trailer sprayed with bedliner to protect everything (this is very commonly done by owners of snowmobile trailers).

Tongue weight counts against the vehicle's carrying capacity. As far as not believing you'll get anywhere near the GTWR, you might be surprised. A couple of bottles of propane and a variety of gear and you'll chew up that 1600lbs quicker than you realize. Keep in mind that many people will move cargo from the truck to the trailer because only a percentage of it ends up getting carried by the tow vehicle (instead of all of it).

My first few Android phones were Samsung. The only one that didn't die out on me within the first six months was the original Note. I had the Galaxy S, SIII, S4, Note, Note 4, Note 5, and I think at least one or two others. Every one of them, except the original Note) gave me various functional problems. I basically gave up on Android and used iPhones for a number of years. A couple of years ago, I switched back on a Google Plxel 2XL and have stayed with not only Android, but the Pixel phones, since. I use my current Pixel 3 XL hard... My job would normally have me on the road 2 nights per week, lots of time in airports, in the air, and plenty of use throughout the day on my phone. After a year and a half, by battery is finally starting to show signs of my charge going down more quickly and I have to plug it in during the day once to top it off so I make it through the day. I just switched back to my Pixel 2 XL so I can take the 3 XL in to have the battery replaced. I don't like FaceID tech and won't buy the 4 XL as a result. I might buy the 4a as it will suit my needs and I really don't want to pay the premium for the 5 series when it launches. No bloatware in the OS (much more responsive), updates are well ahead of what any carrier-branded phone offers, and Google will cover you for full OS upgrades and updates for like three years. I found them to be a much better overall value than any of the other brands.

You can tow whatever you want, regardless of what changes you make to the vehicle. At the end of it all, what matters is what you're officially rated for. No matter what you do to your vehicle, it will not change the official rating that it received from the factory. And, if you are in an accident, expect a smart lawyer on the other side to dig up details showing that you were towing beyond your rated capacity. Will anything happen? Overly, not likely. If something does happen, are you definitely "screwed"? Not necessarily. Plan for the worst, hope for the best.

I see that the part is pretty cheap, but I haven't found a really good writeup for DIY. The comments are kind of general, the TSB says you have to pull the seat out of the truck.

Has anyone that had the dealership repair this had success in getting GM to cover it a second time? My 2015 was repaired under warranty early on - I believe there were less than 10k on the odo. Now, at 72k+, the problem is coming back. I talked to my dealership and they can't commit to anything. They'll only say that they have some sort of 'calculator' that they can plug information into and it will tell them what percentage of the repair GM would cover. IMHO, the 'fix' should have been a fix. Not a short-term workaround as it seems to actually be.

Or you could go to Tractor Supply and pick up a couple of new hooks and you're done.

Since your hooks are easily removed from the chain, why not get different hooks?

Bit far to try and put both trucks in the same driveway and swap pieces. If anyone near me (CT) wants to pull out a console and put in a cloth jump seat, let me know. My ideal would be to do a "swap" between truck with someone.

Where are you located? I'd love to put the console in my truck and I'd end up with a jump seat that would be available.

There's a "Follow this topic" button at the top on the right if you don't want to post just to follow a thread...

Can we get in another thread, though? Not here, please.

I'm guessing you meant longer than 12" not 12'?

That might -fit- in the Silverado, but with the rear seat climate controls, it certainly wouldn't look right IMHO.

The cover being water proof / resistant is actually NOT terribly important. The leaks are because of short and ineffective seals, gaps, etc. The "cover" is just the part that folds up and isn't the source of the leaks everyone is having.

I pointedly said Bak, your counterpoint was other manufacturers. ???

You can open any of the Bak folding covers with a coat hanger and they all have the rubber "hinges" and seals.

The drop-in liners fit under the SIDE RAILS (important distinction). The factory liner does not come up over the FRONT RAIL while some aftermarket liners do. Personally, I would opt for an aftermarket drop-in that comes up over the front rail (but is still considered an under-rail liner because that's relative to the side rails).

My apologies... Everything is blurred together... I actually posted that paragraph into a -different- thread (one that I started regarding the terrible fitment of their covers on the standard and long beds combined with bad customer service).

You do realize that the first time that paragraph was added to this thread that I was the one that posted it, right?

My G2 was $719 to my door through Amazon. Watch for sales from the various vendors.

The GM drop-in liner may help, may hurt, when it comes to any of the folding hard covers from THI. The issue you might run into is that there is a "rib" molded into the front wall of the liner (between the upright and the bulkhead wall). If this rib is too thick on either side, it could make it so that the mounting rail will sit too far back and prevent the tailgate from closing. If that's the case, you'll need to cut some of that rib down and reposition the liner (possibly meaning having to run the self-tapping screws through and making new holes). You would be MUCH better off with an aftermarket drop-in liner that comes up and over the front rail. Or, you need a front rail cap and a spray-in liner (I'm giving very serious consideration to doing this on my truck). The rail being covered completely changes the geometry of where that cover needs to sit in order to be weathertight AND be positioned properly for maximum security. The GM drop-in liner may help, may hurt, when it comes to any of the folding hard covers from THI. The issue you might run into is that there is a "rib" molded into the front wall of the liner (between the upright and the bulkhead wall). If this rib is too thick on either side, it could make it so that the mounting rail will sit too far back and prevent the tailgate from closing. If that's the case, you'll need to cut some of that rib down and reposition the liner (possibly meaning having to run the self-tapping screws through and making new holes). You would be MUCH better off with an aftermarket drop-in liner that comes up and over the front rail. Or, you need a front rail cap and a spray-in liner (I'm giving very serious consideration to doing this on my truck). The rail being covered completely changes the geometry of where that cover needs to sit in order to be weathertight AND be positioned properly for maximum security.

I have neither expected, nor observed, any change in mileage with any truck I have ever used a tonneau on (including the current one).

My Dad always said "locks only keep the honest people out." If someone wants something badly enough, they're going to get it. PERIOD. The best you can do is to make yourself the smallest possible needle in the largest possible haystack. Having a tonneau on your bed means that no one can just blatantly look in there to see what you have. "Security through obscurity." Having a hard cover means that they can't just slit it open. Having a locking cover means that they will need to actively "break in". Maybe this would draw some attention depending on when and where. At the end of the day, if you won't want it stolen, don't leave it in your truck. Period.

Why don't you call Retrax and ask them to tell you "what's different"? That's going to tell you whether or not the materials, tools, and know-how are readily at your disposal to modify it.