ember1205

I would be totally ok with an option to disable relock for folks like you that don't want it. I personally feel the complete lack of it is a bad design by GM, especially in a vehicle that ALSO has a poorly designed FOB that is easy to have the various buttons get pressed simply by being in your pocket.

The HPFP would leak fuel into the engine and it would be something that could be smelled in the oil. If gas is leaking outside of the engine, I believe the injectors or the fuel rail itself would be the more likely culprit.

Put an OBD reader on it and see if you have any pending or stored codes. If the O2 sensors are showing "rich" condition combined with LTFT showing significant reductions (double digits) under driving load, you could have a leaking HPFP. Another thing you can do is either pull the dipstick and smell for gasoline or change the oil and do the same. If it's the HPFP, you're getting fuel leaking through the pump and directly into the engine. The fuel will contaminate the oil, reduce lubrication, and trick the O2 sensors into thinking you're running rich. If that's all happening, you'll actually be running lean AND have reduced lubrication of the moving parts in the engine so getting that pump changed as quickly as possible will be in your engine's best interest.

It's one single-use pipe that's required. There is a second line that's recommended to replace, but not actually required.

It doesn't. That's why every vehicle out there BESIDES this truck has a "re-lock" feature. If you unlock the doors and don't -open- one within a certain amount of time, the doors then all automatically LOCK. While that isn't a way to "know" that the unlock was accidental, it's at least a way to make a reasonable guess that it was accidental.

Using Apple CarPlay doesn't explicitly rule out the use of Google Maps or other Google-backed services (Waze) on Apple devices.

Thanks... I actually have that one on my list to try.

Interesting design, but I -believe- the buttons on the fob for your truck are slightly below the edges of the fob while mine are flush. Much easier to press as a result. I wonder if there's a "slip in case" that would provide a hard cover over the buttons for mine... Here's the two fobs for comparison:

OTA doesn't require any particular network access I don't believe. I know that my Camaro only needs to be in an area with coverage but I don't need ANY network connections configured in the truck in order for the OTA updates to reach my vehicle. Unless they've changed something significant, as long as you're in an area with a clear view of the sky (for sat communications) and potentially in an area with good LTE coverage from ATT specifically, OTA updates should be able to reach your truck.

Your phone should be able to act as a hotspot for them as well, though, reducing the cost of maintaining services in the truck. No?

You can use your truck as a hotspot for your phone. You can't use your phone as a hotspot for your truck. Using the built-in Google Maps or something? You need WiFi. Pulling all of your app and data needs through apps on your phone? You don't need WiFi.

With as much poorly-coded technology that GM puts in their vehicles now, pulling the battery leads is an unfortunately common way to clear problems.

CAI's are pretty worthless for the street regardless of vehicle or situation. Their entire design is based on "less filtration" which is bad for the engine. Full stop.

This FOB sucks. If I carry it in my front pocket of my jeans, which is where I would also carry the one for the Camaro or my wife's Acura, I have a better than 50% chance of finding the truck unlocked when I approach it. The fact that GM removed the "auto re-lock" feature from this truck that I had in my 2015 (and also have in the Camaro, the wife's Acura, and literally every car I've ever owned that used remote unlock functions) is a serious concern for me. I'm looking for a case for it that would actually completely cover all of the buttons since I don't care about remote start and the rest is all proximity based anyhow.

Interesting. But, I think you ended up making the truck a bit heavier while the W-30 package was supposed to help make the car lighter. Fiberglass hood next on the list?

Welcome to the forums... Haven't done it, and you might get much better comments from someone that has, but the manual indicates that fuse 76 in the block under the hood is for "Electric Running Board". I would grab a multi-meter and see if that powers on and off according to the door being open or not - it might be what you need. Otherwise, you might need to find the wires that power the overhead lights in the headliner to find one that's on/off based on the door being open/closed. If you can trace that back to its own fuse, you might be able to add a tap there. Otherwise, probably would need to tap the wire and use it to control a fused relay for the exterior lights.

Isn't the 10/100 warranty on those imports powertrain only? That isn't a major uplift from 5/60, especially in light of how much I've read about them find every possible way under the sun to deny coverage. Hyundai Santa Cruz might be the 'gateway truck'.

It totally depends on what gear the truck is in at the time you switch and other variables like the current speed. Mine ALWAYS dropped at least one gear on switching while in motion with lesser load on the drivetrain. It was easy to tell because the RPM's jumped significantly...

Granted, I've barely made it past 500 miles on the new truck and I do know that the various control modules will take some time to adjust, but I notice NOTHING different from Sport Mode on my truck.

Similar-ish for my 2015 Silverado that I had. - A/C Condenser went bad due to poor design for these trucks (same issue on Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans that use the same part). They don't hold up well over time and the seals break down due to vibrations. They leak, and your A/C is then dead. Had it replaced by a private mechanic with an aftermarket part. I think it cost me around $500 or so. - High Pressure Fuel Pump issues - another bad design where it's known to start to leak fuel directly into the engine oil because of how it's operated (off of the camshaft, I believe). Truck threw a CEL, it went away, it came back. I pulled the codes, bought a cheap OBD tool, loaded up Track Addict on my phone, and tracked the fuel trims for a while. Had a convo with my mechanic about it, he agreed it was the pump. I got all the parts, he did the work. Again, about $500 or so in total for me. - Failed gasket on the high-mounted brake light. Water infiltration into the cab, started to show as light staining along the edges of the headliner. New gasket for $10 off of Amazon. Installed in about a half hour, problem never returned. - Battery died at about the five year mark. $180 (?) for a new one. - Service Trailer Brake issue drove me nuts... Interestingly, I found the third brake light was basically full of water when I changed the gasket. Emptied it and the error didn't come back for three years. Before that, it would occur constantly in very cold (single digits) weather or very warm / direct sunlight situations (if it were sitting in direct with temps at 85 or above). - Exhaust valve squeak appeared around 75k-80k miles. Once diagnosed, I just ignored the squeak. I never burned oil or had any other issues with it. Drive it to about 102k before trading it on the new one. I did have a bit of vibration from the engine when it would drop to 4cyl mode, but it disappeared as soon as it went back to V8.

My understanding is that the audio (all channels, not just the games) will be buffered. This is for overall listening quality to prevent choppiness and drop-outs. The data will be sent in bursts and then "smoothed out" by the radio as you listen. For music, this makes perfect sense. For anything that's audio only, it makes sense. But when you incorporate audio with data like a score update, they just aren't aligning the score updates with the audio stream. So, whenever that score update hits the radio, the radio updates what it's showing. The end result is that the audio of the play probably hit your radio before the score update, the update was shown "right away" while the audio had to work through the buffered information ahead of that play before you heard it.

FWIW... I don't 'measure' what I get out directly but I do tend to empty the drain pan back into the 5 quart jugs I fill from (I always have at least one extra kicking around) and just generally assess that against what I expected. The Camaro is easy because it's 10 quarts (two full jugs). The truck is similar, just a lesser amount. If you're seeing the oil level right on post-fill, you likely were able to get the necessary amount out. Any chance you checked the oil shortly after all of this for fill level and "cleanliness"? Does the oil still basically look new? If it dirties up quickly, that could be another indication that not all of the old oil was removed.

I had the slider in a 2015 Sierra. Didn't want it, but that's how the truck was configured. Swapped that truck for a 2015 Silverado that didn't have the slider. Turned out, the high-mount stoplight on those cabs is problematic no matter and I ended up with water seeping in behind the gasket and staining the headliner (among other things). Current truck has the slider again. My point here is that I don't think it ultimately matters as there are design issues with how the top of the cab is sealed from weather regardless. It might just be a matter of time before more issues show up with the newer cab styles where there isn't a slider.

If the filter isn't straight-up bad, it could be clogged. Possibly picked up something out of the bottom of the pan? Did you measure how much oil came out when you changed it? Get the expected amount? Is there any chance it's over-filled?

I will usually buy a number of bottles when the winter stuff is out for the season and stash it in the garage. I use it year 'round as it doesn't cost more than the non-winter one and I don't have to double-check what I'm putting in the tank regardless of what time of year it is...