ember1205

To be blunt, dexos certifications are marketing bullshit. They are a revenue generator for GM and nothing more.

They aren't troubleshooting, they're throwing money at it. Originally, it was GM's money. Now, it's yours. You need a case opened with Chevy, ESPECIALLY since the problem is persisting after they attempted to repair it under warranty. 800-222-1020

Have your battery tested. If that passes, open a case with Chevy Customer Care and get it in to be TROUBLESHOT (no blind repairing of anything).. Why did they charge you for a software update to "repair" something if the truck could potentially still be under the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper? At a minimum, I would inquire about why you were charged for a so-called repair that was not determined to be necessary by effective troubleshooting and/or request to see the TSB that indicated your complaint could be remedied by a software update (and why it had to be done by the dealer).

Gen2 has been "sunsetted" by GM and they have moved to Gen3. I don't know that there's any ACTUAL difference in the spec, but there's almost certainly no MEANINGFUL difference in the spec. I have Gen2 stuff that will be going into the Camaro in the spring and I have ZERO reservations about using it there or in the truck until it runs out.

2024 truck looks right, 2015 truck was never shown as a truck, just a generic grille in the wrong color. Same goes for the Camaro... wrong grille, wrong color.

There's a lot of jumping around in the manual to find it all. If you haven't already, find and download the electronic version of the manual as it makes chasing this sort of info down a bit easier. Oil need to be dexos1, full syn, and "appropriate viscosity" for the engine. SAE 0W-20 for the V8 engines and 5W-30 for the L4. V8's use 8 quarts, the L4 uses 6 quarts. The truck is intended to "tell you" when to change it based on monitoring different data points of the truck in operation. You'll need to change the oil annually no matter the distance you drive. Otherwise, you might get anywhere from around 3k or so to 8k or more depending on the exact operating conditions. Heavy towing around town, short distances, high outside temps - short mileage. Cruising across the country on flat highway in moderate temps at 65MPH might net more like 8k miles or so. You can still follow the 3k / 3 month thing if you want, but you likely won't need to do it that often because you'll be running full syn.

Yeah, I had looked at that and still wasn't following what specific item it may be addressing.

Are you basically just outlining the starting procedure? Or is this for something specific? Not sure I'm following the reasoning for it being here?

Have any reference links to read up on that?

Factual or not, it's not meaningful -for street use-.

Since GM felt it was wise to bury a potential safety issue behind the anonymity of the CEL, I did what I ultimately felt was appropriate in clearing the codes. My safety is more important than their ability to read an active code. Besides, they are still present as "historical" codes. And, while I agree that "electrical gremlins" plague new GM vehicles, what I found with my car was that it ultimately traced back to a bad (AGM) battery. For all of the so-called enhancements and benefits that AGM batteries are supposed to bring, they sure do seem to be the source of an awful lot of issues...

Welcome to the latest episode of GM doesn't understand how to write software. 2024 Silverado 1500 RST, 4WD, Crew Cab Truck has about 1100 miles on it and last night it threw a CEL - solid, not flashing. When I got home, I grabbed my OBD connector and pulled the code information with my phone app. Two codes were set as follows: U0121 - Freeze Frame: 47 (lost communications with anti-lock brakes) U0418 (Invalid data received from brake system) These two codes set the CEL and give the impression that actually driving the truck could be hazardous, yet there was NOTHING shown in the dash (BTW, GM - smart move to bury the CEL in the bottom right corner of the dash where the spokes of the steering wheel hide it from view). There are two additional pending codes as follows: U2418 (Unknown trouble code) U2419 (Unknown trouble code) Absolutely no clue what could be going on here, pretty much ZERO meaningful information for any of the codes except the very first one, but NOTHING in the current generation of trucks. The good news is that I already have an appointment for a myriad of issues that the dealer needs to address that were not right from day 1. The bad news is that it's two weeks away. I cleared the set codes and the CEL went away. I will be driving the truck and monitoring the status but I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on what might be going on here. I hadn't opened a case with Chevy for the various issues to be looked at in two weeks, but I WILL be opening a case with them now. Sigh.

Appreciate you chiming in, but I had steps put on already. Went with the all-black OEM ones (fixed - the power steps are 100% no-go here in the rust belt).

You have a six year old truck with 5,000 miles on it? Anyway, p0430 doesn't necessarily mean "bad cat", could mean bad O2 sensor. Also, MAF values at idle can vary. I believe I was seeing around 5.5 on mine when operating correctly. You need to ALSO check the readings while there is load on the engine and it's at about 2000-2500 RPMS or so. You would want to compare the idle and higher RPM values to be sure it appears to be reading correctly.

No scanner can clear the Permanent DTC, only the DTC itself. DTC's that begin with a "U" are network-related, and I'm pretty sure -ONLY- certain codes within the Powertrain category (those that start with "p") have the potential to be permanent codes. With regard to permanent codes, they will remain in the ECU until "enough" drive cycles and mileage are recorded once the underlying conditions are remedied AND the DTC has been cleared.

Something to keep in mind is that "calling GM" is putting you in touch with someone in a call center. They don't have the capacity to do comprehensive searches on every item that may occur, so the reply of "I haven't heard of that" is literally from that one person's sole perspective. Yes, they can look for certain items, but mostly they're just going to search the VIN of your vehicle to see if there are any open recalls and relay that to you if they find any. If you're contacting them, open a case, report the issue, and go from there. The dealer is going to be your source of info and possible repair, and intermittent issues are basically impossible to solve. What I mean by that is they ONLY way to know if you have corrected an issue is to have a definite way to either produce the issue or test for presence of the issue which you can then use once a repair has been attempted to verify the issue is gone. Things that happen unpredictably and without a known, specific cause may or may not be resolvable because there is no sure-fire way to validate that a repair attempt worked or not. Let them hook it up to the magic computer, and see what info they get back. If you get the dreaded "We couldn't reproduce the problem", ask them how you can go about collecting more information for them to use, in combination with your open case, to eventually determine the cause. Hope it turns out well for you!

This is one of those things that is all about the details... Sensors will detect issues that set DTC's. All DTC's can be cleared. Certain DTC's will ALSO set a PDTC (sort of like a "copy" of itself) and PDTC's can NOT be cleared. Period. PDTC's are generally (only?) related to emissions-related problems and exist in vehicles from 2010 and newer specifically to ensure that issues related to emissions can not be "gotten around" through code clearing only - you HAVE to repair the underlying issue that caused the original DTC in the first place, clear the DTC, and then just drive the vehicle. Generally, you need to plan on at least 10-15 drive cycles and at least 200 miles of driving -after- clearing the DTC in order for the PDTC to erase itself. Issue -> sets DTC -> illuminates CEL Clearing DTC -> CEL turned off If PDTC was set, it will remain until the drive cycles and mileage required to clear it have been met. Clearing a DTC should be done with car on and engine off. Once cleared, if the CEL returns, you still have an issue. Hope that helps...

I -believe- what you are missing is the controllers to activate the AFM/DFM but the engine should have been built with the appropriate lifers and such installed for it.

Have you connected an ODB reader to check for pending / historical codes? What about watching the various sensors while driving? TrackAddict app for your phone will not only track a ton of sensors but has a recording mode so you can plug in and go then review the data logs when you get home. You can watch things like air temps, O2 sensor values, fuel trims, etc. Analyzing the data might help you track down the culprit.

Ok... Not a camera function issue (seemingly). Do you have the Park Assist feature disabled? "Settings > Vehicle > Comfort and Convenience. If Park Assist is turned off through vehicle personalization, the Park Assist button will be disabled. To turn Park Assist on again, select On in vehicle personalization.

You can tap across the bottom of the screen for different cameras and their views. If you can't get the front camera to show up (and it used to), then that camera isn't working correctly.

You're still two revs behind. 17.2 is the version that addresses a wireless charging problem caused by the phone software. I'm waiting to take my truck in for issues with the charging system in the truck...

If they were actually doing anything innovative on the EV side, there is NO WAY they would be leaving that out of the ICE side. It makes no sense to develop two systems in parallel which costs more money. GM has a terrible track record with software development. Why do I have to create a driver profile in my current truck in order to enable the feature control to limit the power-on volume of the radio? If you don't create a unique driver profile, this setting is not available to you. And guess what? The one you want to set so it actually works correctly for all drivers? The one in the Guest profile which is what you're using until you create your own. How stupid is that?

It's a three-part setup. 1. Enable the different heating / cooling controls in the Infotainment that you want to "allow" to operate during remote start. 2. Set your HVAC controls how you typically use them. I tend to leave mine in AUTO set to 72 during the cold months and AUTO set to 70 during the warm months. 3. When remote started, the external temperature probe will determine which of the "allowed" functions (heat, cool, defrost, heated seats, etc.) to turn on and will use the settings for heat/cool that were set when the truck was turned off.

We passed that point years ago. And GM has some of the absolutely WORST software out there in terms of inter-op within the vehicles. Their programmers do some of the absolutely DUMBEST things, and here's an example from my 2015 Silverado... Click the button on the back of the left side of the steering wheel to change radio presets. You will need to wait for the DIC to pop-up the list of presets, change the highlighted one to the one that aligns with the number of presses of the button, and then the station on the radio will change. The process takes a couple of seconds from the time you press the button until the station changes, making "scanning" through the stations a giant, slow PITA of a process. Before you press that button on the wheel, though, reach over with your left hand and give the trailer brake controller gain levers a squeeze. This will pop up the gain indicator in the DIC. Immediately start clicking your way through the radio stations using the button on the steering wheel and the station changes instantaneously with each click of the button. The entire delay is due to the lag in time required for the DIC to show the preset list.