ember1205

I somewhat disagree but wish I didn't have to. Shops that do sub-par work are generally the norm from what I have found. People don't know how to publish factual information without all of the emotion, so any sort of "I just got screwed" reviews turn into emotional roller coasters. You're far better off writing up a factual timeline of events and submitting to BBB and your state's Attorney General's office in the hopes of getting action taken. Maybe a local Chamber of Commerce. Whining on Facebook won't do a thing and you're likely to end up just getting kicked out the group and banned anyhow. You can post to Yelp and Google for reviews, but again... it needs to be detailed and factual and having the ability to back any of it up matters. My local dealership has been horrendous to deal with for my new truck. Within a week of taking ownership, I went back to discuss some small items. Finally built up a list of things to be dealt with that was long enough to schedule a visit right around the time it threw a CEL (about 400 miles into ownership). Called to schedule an appointment because the CEL was due to ABS comm issues. They couldn't take it in for the entire list for a month because I would need a rental / loaner. Had it a week and fixed absolutely nothing. They don't listen, treat you like you're a complete moron, and don't actually troubleshoot issues. On the way home, CEL again, limp mode, every warning known to mankind in the dash. Truck went right back to them along with a new case from Chevy Customer Care. They had it ANOTHER week and fixed exactly one item - corrupt software in the Communications Gateway Module. Still ignored the other defects and I had to complain about them AGAIN when picking it up to get them on the radar. Finally getting the new plastic trim piece for my steering wheel that they claimed wasn't defective in another two weeks... The Service Manager doesn't want to be told that they suck and he just wants to argue with you at every step. I won't waste my time. I also won't waste my time trying to leave them a "review" anywhere because I just don't need the headache of all of it. I will, however, be certain to recommend to anyone looking for a Chevy of any kind to NOT patronize them.

I had a tractor for about ten years. Cost me about $24k with loader, mower, and front-mount snow thrower. Ended up selling to snow thrower (didn't use it) for $3k and then sold the tractor in the end for $16,500. $4500 depreciation for me over a ten year span. Maintenance was easy and inexpensive (for me) and the machine had very low hours when I sold it. Biggest issue I had to content with was storage as I lost my entire garage bay (which was a 26' deep bay and the deeper side of the garage).

Actual/Calculated? I also doubt it. Guesstimated by the crappy algorithm in the truck and displayed in the dash? Maybe. My last truck consistently showed at least 1MPG higher than actual.

Maybe, maybe not. I've had SO MANY dealerships claim stuff needed repair that didn't that I take whatever they say with a grain of salt. If my private mechanic tells me something is broken, I take him at his word every time.

Problem is, you need to drive the vehicle in between the three drain and fills. Sigh.

Honda/Acura uses a straight drain and fill process, and you have to do three full iterations to get "almost all" of the dirty fluid out and replaced with clean fluid. They also have something like a 50-60k mileage interval for doing that. We're considering swapping away from the longer interval and three flushes and moving to a 30k interval with a single flush. Oddly, we aren't getting past about 40k without the vehicle starting to show some 'surging' because the transmission is slipping.

All very fair. And, full transparency, I pay for oil changes at times as well... Perfect example: Wife's car needs a transmission fluid change. FAR simpler to have my mechanic do it than try tackling it myself - partly because he has all of the appropriate tools to measure the amount of fluid coming out to ensure that the correct amount goes back in. While it's there and up in the air, I'll leave him a filter and fresh motor oil to tackle that as well.

For you, that is all very valid. But it won't be for everyone. If I'm already -at- Costco, I can grab a couple boxes of the 0W-20 dexos1 Kirkland oil along with a couple of the 5W-30 dexos1 for the Camaro. The oil change itself is actually pretty easy, and I know it's done correctly with all appropriate parts replaced every time because I do it myself. I get to choose the specific oil filter I want to use as well. As for the disposal, I simply pour it from my 12q drain pan back into 2.5q jugs that the stuff comes in. My private mechanic is happy to let me drop full jugs off at his shop for him to recycle for me, or any place that sells oil here is basically required to take the used stuff back - so you drop it off whenever you're going somewhere that's convenient. As for garage space - unless you're changing the oil in the dead of winter, pulling the truck in just far enough to get the front end onto the cement is plenty far enough. For the Camaro, I actually back the car in and then run the front wheels up on small ramps - they offset the slope of the garage floor so it's quite level.

YOU should contact Chevy Customer Care and open a case. Explain the details to them, tell them you have already had a dealership look it, they can't replicate the problem, but it continues to occur. Ask them to assist the dealership in troubleshooting the problem. It seems that dealers just go by the presence (or lack thereof) of trouble codes and whether GM has published a service bulletin or not. They don't actively troubleshoot most of these kinds of problems without GM pushing them to do so (from what I can tell). Get the case number then call the dealership. Let them know you opened a case so GM would be able to assist more directly and ask them when you could bring the truck in so they can work with GM to troubleshoot.

I have never, EVER, experienced an issue with a connection for Android Auto -OR- CarPlay based on whether or not cellular service drops. I would challenge them to back that claim up. And the discussion thread you linked to is specifically for those using CarPlay via USB connection. Are you using a cable or wireless? It honestly sounds like you need to have the dealership update ALL of the software in your truck to latest versions. Given the myriad of issues owners are having with over-the-air updates causing problems, I've turned all of the auto-updating on my truck completely off and will not re-enable that unless it is crystal clear that GM has resolved this problem.

Pretty sure that "GM" got out of the warranty administration business somewhat recently (within the last couple of years). It's all done through a third-party now. If dealerships aren't offering them, it's likely because there is no kickback in it for them to make it worthwhile.

And my 2024 cost at least as much as yours but I got none of that. They forced it down everyone's throat and showed the price. People bitched. They hid the price and removed the service. No more griping but the price of the truck didn't go down even though the actual service was removed.

The app is largely useless. Aside from sending a control (lock, unlock, or start / cancel commands), it has little value. The tire pressure info is typically wrong as is the fuel level. Distance to empty is similarly often incorrect. The location data is not precise and this leads to problems in actually locating the vehicle if you need to. Most folks with a diesel are unable to see the DEF level. It won't tell you if the vehicle is currently locked or unlocked, running or not, etc. The whole "Trusted Device" function they tried to add is largely worthless if you want CarPlay or Android Auto to work properly because launching either screen mirroring product kills the NFC functionality on the device to be able to auto-unlock your driver profile. The fact that they REQUIRE a driver profile now to make certain settings in the vehicle available (max volume at startup, for example) is another aberration on GM's part of genuinely not understanding how to write software. That's another whole topic to itself, though.

What you're essentially asking is how much value does OnStar have and does it line up with the cost of the subscription. Let me offer the following to consider: OnStar has been around since something like the mid 90's. At the time, cell phones were still more of a luxury item than anything else so adding "telephone" services in the vehicle were of interest to many customers as it was FAR cheaper than getting a "car phone" installed. When cell phones became a mainstream thing, the phone service part lost some value. When -smartphones- became the norm, the data plans and turn-by-turn navigation became less valued. GM never changed their offering much, though. Same old tired services at rising prices. Subscribership got so bad that GM changed the rules a few years ago and hard-bound three years of connected service into all vehicles and passed the cost along to the consumer. There was no way to opt out, and it was considered a factory-installed "option" that couldn't be removed so you couldn't argue the price of it. People still bought the vehicles, so GM decided to take away the mandatory service but still roll the price into the vehicle, increasing the margin on the vehicles. They're likely still showing some of that revenue to support the OnStar business unit, but I'm willing to bet that their subscriber count is dropping again. OnStar is a mostly redundant set of services compared to your smartphone at a monthly subscription price that is far too high for what little actual functionality you get.

What I mean is... it's crap. I get the opportunity to experience it in a variety of vehicles including my own truck (wireless) and car (wired, but with a wireless adapter I installed) and pretty much every rental I have when I'm traveling. While the overall convenience factor is good when it works, there are far too many inconsistencies and stumbling points with it due to how it's implemented in every different vehicle out there. Add to that being at the mercy of the automaker to have installed a proper connectivity system (USB, WiFi, Bluetooth) that is properly prioritized and the potential for issues rises exponentially. Add to that Google doesn't make it easy for you to know what version of the software is in your vehicle, what associated components are on your phone, how to ensure they "update together", or how to update anything in the car itself. What happens when you can't / don't get an update OTA or under the warranty, the vehicle is 6, 7, 10, 15+ years old and is 0% compatible with whatever version of AA components are running on your Galaxy S35 at that point? My overall experience with AA is that it's "ok" at best and trying to troubleshoot any sort of issue is near impossible because there are simply too many players and parts involved in its operation. I did have a significant problem with it in my truck, but I'm chalking all of that up to yet another failed OTA update from GM that caused a major issue for me but not QUITE bad enough to brick it. It took multiple rounds of griping at the dealer and getting Chevy involved before they would run full diagnostics to actually find a corrupted software install in the main communication gateway on the truck... Oddly, though, AA starting working again before the truck went to the dealership for the repairs. I've been saying for years that GM has no clue how to write software. This has been evident from the various odd things that their software does (or doesn't do) in the vehicles that will make anyone that understands software design even a little just shake their heads. GM has finally admitted that they're terrible at it by handing the entire platform for the Infotainment over to Google. And it's gotten worse because of that "being at the mercy of the automaker" thing. Have you ever spent any time going through the various options of Android Auto? Have you figured out that there are settings available to you that do absolutely nothing? Example: You can configure it to start automatically all the time, start automatically if it was used on the previous drive, or let the vehicle choose whether or not to auto start it. Exactly where is that setting in the vehicle to auto start AA on connection? It doesn't exist. And before anyone says that you can adjust that setting from the vehicle, you're right... but what you're changing is the setting on the phone. In all seriousness, Google has done a generally respectable job of ensuring that their platform (Android) operates appropriately to support third-party apps. And in the case of the iPhone / CarPlay, the only thing that needs to run is the screen mirroring functioning (pretty much the same for Android). Apple is the bigger hardass here in that they don't like allowing things like their screen mirroring function to operate on non-iOS platforms.

Android Auto is crap, too. And the entirety of how the Infotainment actually operates is garbage overall. What's more likely is that CarPlay can't properly operate on a substandard platform.

You might want to NOT go looking for updates or allowing them to be installed... There are a number of folks that experienced issues with OTA updates essentially "bricking" their trucks due to either corruption or the installation of updates that are not actually for your truck. I experienced a litany of issues with my 2024 that were (finally) traced down to being corruption in the software of the communication gateway control module. During the time I was experiencing issues, I got pretty much every warning light and message you could imagine, including being told "Service Steering Column Lock" which my truck doesn't even have. Since getting my truck back, I have very purposefully turned off every option I could find related to downloading and installing OTA updates. With my Camaro, I have been happy to let a few updates that came along get installed as they have all gone smoothly AND they corrected some oddities. With the truck, however, there's no way I'm allowing this to occur again. For reference, I did have an OTA update that was installed maybe sometime in November (ish) and the problems started a few weeks after that.

I just had something occur to me... for the folks having issues with wireless CarPlay - do you have your truck set up as a WiFi hotspot and is your phone configured to use that network? I'm wondering if GM was smart enough to combine the two networks behind the scenes so that your phone can access both the WiFi interface needed for the screen mirroring functions to the Infotainment AND have access to the Internet over the same WiFi network...

Is it possible that the GPS needs to recalibrate the compass information? Check the manual for how to do that as it typically involves driving in circles / figure 8 a number of times if that's what it is.

A) There are Moderators (not Admins) that pay attention to the site still care about it. If you identify one of them or if you post in an area they monitor for these type of issues, they WILL respond. As an side, one of the Mods actually DID chime in on this thread already and actually guided you to a partial solution (addressing the logout issue). B) Your description is around how you get notified of new posts but you asked about searching for Unread Content. Under the 1999-2013 forum, click the "Follow" button near the top of the content. Once you have your profile set to follow a sub-forum, click "Unread Content" at the top or bottom of any page. Toward to upper part of the page will be a series of filters. in the "Following" drop-down, choose "Content posted in areas I follow" and it will update to show you what's unread in the various sub-forums you have subscribed to.

Although I have seen (and done) much worse, the rim looks a little chewed up. I'd find a wheel repair shop, maybe even through the dealership as they seem to be able to get decent prices for the repairs.

Delete the phone from being paired in the Infotainment. Shut the truck off, exit, close and lock the doors, walk away. Delete the truck from the phone. Power the phone down. Wait 30 seconds, power the phone back up. Get a -quality- MFi-certified USB cable. Enter the truck, start it, plug in the phone. Follow the various prompts.

I can't imagine a scenario where a curb can rub the rim hard enough to transfer paint but not to gouge it up.

The admins pay little attention to this site unfortunately. There are some moderators that still give a damn and keep an eye on things but have limits to what they can do. Seeing unread content within a forum doesn't work the way you think it does. The "Unread Content" link is site-wide no matter where you click it. If you want to see what's unread within a specific forum only, you would need to "follow" that forum, click "Unread Content", and then set the Following filter to "content posted in areas I follow". This will show you all unread content across all areas you follow at once. The only way to see it for only one forum area would be to FOLLOW only that one area. If you're having issues logging off, I would suggest you clear ALL temp data and cookies for this site and then log back in. You could also try a different browser to see if it behaves differently.

Did you sign into your Google account when you first bought the truck and it had an active plan? If so, try signing out of it. You might need to do this in your driveway and connect the truck to your home's WiFi first. Once signed out, "forget" the WiFi connection.