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About ESMD

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  1. Tailgate LED light bars

    Do you have them already or plan on getting them? If you have them already, they are nice looking but only last about 6 months. Once water gets into them, they short out. I wired the white lights to my interior dome lights and one night when I was driving around, my interior lights were coming on every time I hit the brakes or turn signals. Figured out it was the step lights, water got into them. If you plan on getting them, go for the ones from Octane Lighting. They look different but my understanding is they don't fail as much as the Anzo lights. The only problem is the Octane Lighting ones have a large control box inline with the wire and no easy way to get it through the bumper without cutting and splicing the wire. I just replaced them this week and I'll see how they hold up. If you want some help installing them, send me a PM and I'll explain how to get to them without taking the bumper off.
  2. I've got a 2017 and got the letter today. I'm going to be proactive and order that kit before I have an issue. Too bad GM won't just fix a potential problem before it becomes a major problem!
  3. Rear Tailgate Cap

    I removed my tailgate cap and replaced it with one of the lighted ones from Anzo. It's not too difficult to remove but takes some patience. Look at the two pictures I've posted below which shows the underside of the tailgate cap. That may help you in figuring out how to remove it. But basically: 1.) Pick a warm day and/or park the truck in the sun for a couple of hours. It will be a lot easier to remove the cap if the plastic is warmed up. 2.) Remove the access panel on the tailgate. It may be easier to get your hands inside of the tailgate if you remove the two rods for the latch (don't remember if I removed them completely or just unhooked one end and moved them out of the way, but do whatever you feel more comfortable with). 3.) On the bottom of the tailgate cap, there are 21 plastic "nubs" that lock into the top of the tailgate frame. Reach up into the inside of the tailgate through the access panel and simply squeeze each nub and push out to release each one from the frame of the tailgate. 4.) There is also a strip of (what I call) 3M VHB double sided foam tape on the one edge of the tailgate cap, between the lip of the cap and inside of the tailgate. If you look at the one closeup picture below, you can see the residue of where this is located. The best way I found to help this release without damaging anything is CAREFULLY take a heat gun or hairdryer and warm up the lip of the cap and gently pull it away from the frame. You can also take a plastic putty knife to help it release. 5.) A combination of step #3 and #4 above should get the tailgate cap to come off. Again, a warm day will make the process much easier. 6.) When I installed my Anzo cap, I did not use the double sided foam tape, to make it much easier to get the cap off in the future. I'm sure it has a purpose, but I think the cap is rigid enough it doesn't need it. And I have not noticed any problems by not using the tape.
  4. It appears the updated module (version 3.0) has come out for the 2017 and up trucks. I was wondering if anyone has installed this updated one in their truck and what do you think? There appears to be a huge difference between the 2.0 and 3.0 versions in how they connect to the truck. The 2.0 being a direct plug-in to the OBD-II connector, the 3.0 being an in-line connection with three harnesses of the BCM. What worries me is that direct connection to the BCM - and the warning in the Speed Turtle instruction manual, "The use of the EFM 3.0 may shorten the life of the vehicle’s light bulbs, headlight assemblies, and electronic modules." I don't mind with playing around with most things on the truck, but I've always tread lightly around the BCM. Not exactly an inexpensive part to mess around with! So I guess the big question is, could the 3.0 module really cause damage to the BCM, connected up they way it's described?
  5. Sirius Radio

    Not sure how often you have the truck camper on your truck, but if you have unlimited data on your smartphone, you could always add the Sirius XM app for $5/month. When you have the camper on, use the app. It's an extra step but maybe easier than trying to relocate the antenna.
  6. Yeah, I haven't quite figured out what my truck is thinking. If I start the truck, leave it in Park, press (and hold) the button to turn the lights on, nothing. Put it in gear, press (and hold) the button, lights turn on. Then I put it in Park, thinking the lights will turn off automatically, they stay on. From there, I can turn them on and off at will with no problems, regardless of what gear it's in. Consequently, if I start the truck, leave it in Park, turn on the headlights manually, press (and hold) the button, lights turn on! So I don't know if it's a bug in the BCM or maybe a programming change when my truck was built, but trying it several times yields the same results. Just a a precaution, I triple checked all the connections both at the headlight switch and BCM and they are all where they are supposed to be. Again, works fine for me so I have no complaints!
  7. Set the parking brake and put the truck in Neutral.
  8. Installed my switch and harness this evening and noticed two things: 1.) Switch doesn't activate when in Park. Truck has to be out of Park in order for the switch to work. 2.) Switch will also turn the headlights and parking lights on too, just like if you press the fog light button. Overall, I'm happy with it. The instructions were perfect and it was great having the pre-made harness. On a side note, I do have an extra switch (blue color) because I accidentally ordered two. I did plug it in and test it and it does work. If anyone is looking for one, send me a PM.
  9. The blue switch (left one) has the icon for "Rear Fog Light" where as the red switch (right one) has the icon for an "Off Road Light". Maybe the left switch is shared with another GM model or used on a European model? A Saab I had years ago had the same icon as the blue switch, basically a fog light icon (except the beams were pointing to the right and horizontal, as opposed to pointing to the left and at a slight down angle). When I would press that button, it would illuminate a bright red light at the rear of the vehicle on the left side, same intensity as a brake light but not the same bulb as the brake or turn signal. If you are ever driving down the road and see someone who looks like they are riding their brakes and have one light out, it's probably a rear fog light. Some vehicles use two lights, others use only one on the "passing" side of the vehicle. Rear fog lights are common on European vehicles I believe.
  10. I'm looking to pull out the entire headlight assembly (Silverado) so I can gain easier access to the wiring behind it. Getting to the wiring from behind just isn't working. I see two bolts on top that are obvious but I'm sure there is more to it. Before I pull off the grill or other trim pieces and potentially break some clips and other delicate plastic parts, what else is holding the headlight assembly in place and what do I need to do to get this detached from the truck?
  11. Well that's a rip! They are going to tell me something is included on the specs of the truck but then bury it in some internal document and not include it after all. What's GM saving, $2 for a wiring harness on a $60K truck!?! Sorry for the rant but that just frustrating. I'm going to post a follow up question on a new thread, as to not get this one off topic. Thanks for the help!
  12. Well that's disappointing. And confusing at the same time! I even checked what the snow plow package comes with just to make sure I didn't misread something and this is what it says: "Power feed for backup and roof emergency light, 220-amp alternator with gas or diesel engine, forward lamp wiring harness, provisions for cab roof-mounted lamp/beacon, underbody shields and heavy-duty front springs" I see everything in that description except the forward lamp wiring harness - and I would assume that would be a connection point in the front of the truck. Or is that just smoke and mirrors on GM's part to make it seem like you are getting a feature that really isn't there!
  13. Actually, not connecting up a plow. Installed some running lights on my side steps and want to wire them into the parking light circuit. I have the wiring run to the front of the truck with the intention of tapping into the wiring of the headlight assembly but having a heck of a time getting my hands in there. Figured the truck came with the snow plow prep package (which I would assume there is a wiring harness up front for the plow lights) so maybe it would be easier to get to that wiring. I don't see any capped off harnesses or blunt cut wiring under the hood.
  14. I have a 2017 Silverado (2500) Diesel - looking for the location of the "forward lamp wiring harness" that should be part of the snow plow prep package. This is the harness for the plow lights (parking, turn signal, and headlights) and NOT the emergency beacon wiring. I've looked everywhere under the hood, checked the GM Up-fitter site, even checked the manual with no success. I was going to tap into the headlight assembly and even went as far as taking apart the air filter assembly to try to get to the back of the turn signal/parking light wiring on the passenger side but still couldn't get my fat hands back in there to get the bulbs out. Plus, it didn't look like I had much slack to pull the wires out to tap into them. So if there was another location under the hood to get to the turn signal and parking light wiring I would entertain that.
  15. I was getting fuel (diesel) for my truck this afternoon. When I pulled the fuel nozzle out to return it to the pump, this was on the nozzle. It's a rubber washer that's u-shaped. I can't tell if it was part of the nozzle, my truck, or the fuel cap. It may even be part of someone else's truck! It the same size at the end of the fuel cap but does not appear to want to stay anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.

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