arcasey

Yes, that is what he is saying. The connector that comes on the Morimoto harness is a 9006 female connector. The male connector on the stock wiring harness is a 9012, to mate with the stock 9012 bulbs. What he is saying is cut the stock male connector off and put a 9006 male connector on the stock wiring to mate with the Morimoto 9006 female connector. Now, here's what I would do if you ever wanted to put stock lights back in the truck for any reason. I would clip the wires and put some bullet or blade connectors on the stock wiring harness and the new male 9006 connector. That way you could always put it back to stock if you wanted. Haven't thought of any reason why you ever would go back to the stock lights but at least it gives you options. This is what I'm going to do if I ever run into problems with my kit.

I have a 2015 Sierra that I put a Morimoto HID kit in and I get the same notifications on the monthly Onstar Diagnostic emails. I've not had a single issue with the kit other than the initial installation and the monthly error messages on the report. As far as the intermittent failures I had similar issues right after I installed the kit. As has been said already, the ground was the first thing I checked. My problem ended up being the molded female connectors supplied with the kit to connect to the stock input. I actually removed the female connectors entirely and just used the prongs on the ends of the wires and stuck them into the stock harness. I just used electrical tape to make sure they hold their place but they were pretty snug without the tape so it probably wasn't needed. Since I did that I have not had a single issue. I have also seen some defective ballasts and igniters cause the issues you are experiencing as well. Might want to contact your Morimoto rep on how to troubleshoot those....

Quick Splice Wire Connector: This should be all you need. I would get some that are weatherproof just to be on the safe side. They don't cost that much more. According to the GM Upfitter guide the high beam wire looks to be "white" or "light blue", unless I'm reading the diagram wrong. Here's a link so you can look at it for yourself: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/578/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf Should be on page 14 of 896

Have you tried connecting the diodes to any other pins other than pin 85? Typical wiring for 4-5 pin relays is: Activation circuit: pins 86 & 85. Pin 86 is usually the power input from the circuit you want to activate the relay and Pin 85 typically goes to ground but it can work either way. Power circuit: pins 30 & 87. Pin 30 is typically incoming 12V power and pin 87 would be the output. So, if it is wired like this I would jump from pin 87 of my high beam relay to pin 86 on the fog light relay. If you have a voltmeter I would check voltages at the relay pins during different states to figure out where I needed to connect my jumper.

The IRS decides to audit Grandpa, and summons him to the IRS office. The auditor was not surprised when Grandpa showed up with his attorney. The auditor said, "Well, sir, you have an extravagant lifestyle and no full-time employment, Which you explain by saying that you win money gambling. I'm not sure the IRS finds that believable." "I'm a great gambler, and I can prove it," says Grandpa. "How about a demonstration?" The auditor thinks for a moment and said, "Okay. Go ahead." Grandpa says, "I'll bet you a thousand dollars that I can bite my own eye." The auditor thinks a moment and says, "It's a bet." Grandpa removes his glass eye and bites it. The auditor's jaw drops. Grandpa says, "Now, I'll bet you two thousand dollars that I can bite my other eye." Now the auditor can tell Grandpa isn't blind, so he takes the bet. Grandpa removes his dentures and bites his good eye. The stunned auditor now realizes he has wagered and lost three grand, with Grandpa's attorney as a witness. He starts to get nervous. "Want to go double or nothing?" Grandpa asks. "I'll bet you six thousand dollars that I can stand on one side of your desk, and pee into that wastebasket on the other side, and never get a drop anywhere in between." The auditor, twice burned, is cautious now, but he looks carefully and decides there's no way this old guy could possibly manage that stunt, so he agrees again. Grandpa stands beside the desk and unzips his pants, but although he strains mightily, he can't make the stream reach the wastebasket on the other side, so he ends up urinating all over the auditor's desk. The auditor leaps with joy, realizing that he has just turned a major loss into a huge win. But Grandpa's own attorney moans and puts his head in his hands. "Are you okay?" the auditor asks. "Not really," says the attorney. "This morning, when Grandpa told me he'd been summoned for an audit, he bet me twenty-five thousand dollars that he could come in here and pee all over your desk and that you'd be happy about it!"

Unless I'm mistaken, you can do the diode trick to have the fog lights on with high beams. The circuit that gets controlled with the fog light switch would need to break the fog light circuit down stream from the diode and the switch in order to have control of the fog lights and still maintain auto on. Lamby, would it actually cause problems with the BCM if the fog lights are out of sync? The high beam switch should work no matter what state the fog lights are in because all it should control is the head lights. The BCM is only disabling the fog lights based on the Head light state (high or low beam). Then, if a user wants the fog lights to run with the high beams then all they need to do is the diode trick. At least that's my line of thinking and I am by no means an expert.

My understanding of what the OP wants is for the fog lights to be auto on with the headlights (high or low beam) and then be able to change the state of the fog light circuit (i.e. cycle the lights on or off) by pressing the factory fog light switch. The circuit would need to reset itself to the "original state" once the vehicle was turned off so that the fog lights would be auto on with the head lights the next time the truck was turned on. We were assuming that the factory fog light switch is a momentary pulse type switch.

Okay, that's what i was thinking it was. Another useful option I missed out on along with stock headlights that were actually useful.

Okay so maybe I'm confused, what exactly do you mean by "auto high beam function." Maybe my truck doesn't have this function?

So, with your circuit as described and depicted above, you are able to disable the fog lights using the factory switch after they have been energized by the auto headlights and then re-energize them with one more push of the fog light switch?

Yes it very well could be that simple, and if it is I'd love to know. I think that switch is just a momentary pulse switch that sends a signal to the BCM and the BCM changes the state of the fog light circuit based on receiving a pulse from the switch. Of course this only happens when the high beams are not on because the BCM turns the fog lights off when high beams are on and I really think that has come from some states have laws against more than (4) forward facing driving lights on while in forward motion. I suspect that the BCM modules aren't all that much different but I still don't understand why they didn't reprogram the new Sierras since they only have two headlight bulbs......At any rate, the main problem I've had while trying to come up with a circuit to work is one that will return to the same state no matter what state it was in when the vehicle is turned off (of course without doing any kind of programming logic). I thought about latching/impulse relays but I just couldn't come up with a good solution to make it return to the auto on state when the headlights/DRL's are on. Basically what has to happen is the circuit needs to "reset" itself when there is a loss of constant 12V+ power, i.e. when the ignition is turned off. I'll give it some more thought and see if I can come up with a simpler solution.

Actually, I think there may be a way for you to do what you want: fog lights auto on with headlights/DRL's and use the stock foglight switch to turn them off and then back on again. I haven't drawn it out yet but I think you can do this with a Latched ON/OFF with Momentary Pulse type circuit. This circuit would be similar to a push button start circuit. It just depends on how intricate you are willing get with the wiring because it would require quite a few relays to make the circuit work. I'll see if I can draw up the circuit and make sure it will work on paper. Here is a video of how the circuit works: There is a link in the video's description that will carry you to a site showing exactly how to wire the circuit shown in the video. Once you have the circuit shown in the video the only thing to figure out is how you can use that 12V output to break the foglight circuit. I think this can be done with another 5 pin relay.

I actually thought about this after I asked and I don't think it matters. I think all of these trucks supply a lower voltage for the DRL's so the only safe way to ensure you get the correct voltage to the fog lights would be to tap into the DRL circuit using a relay and then supply 12V from the battery and tap into the fog light circuit. The only problem is that you would not be able to turn your fog lights off while the DRL's are on.

What make and model truck do you have?

All of the info I have found for that truck says it was rated between 10,000 and 10,300 lbs towing capacity.

Yes, all I did was install the HID bulbs. I will say that it is a large improvement over the stock halogens, but in order to obtain the best result you really need to change the projectors to projectors designed for HIDs.

If you plan on using the stock Headlight Housings, definitely HID's. Seen LED's HID's in the stock housings and the HID's are brighter, hands down.

Bottom line is: If you don't want to mess with reprogramming/deleting the Magneride for the new ride height then you will have to use spacers and relocation brackets to maintain sensor position. If you don't care about Magneride at all then you can probably, as mjdxtreme said above, talk to the dealer and see if they can reprogram the truck to say a model that doesn't have the Magneride. The Magneride system has its own ECM that communicates with the truck's control systems. I'd be willing to bet that everything with the exception of the magneride ECM is the same on a truck that doesn't have magneride. It's probably just an extra input and a programming change to add magneride suspension. My guess would be you will have trouble going to reprogramming route but it's worth a try.

I believe FabTech makes a 4" lift for the Denali's with Magneride. They also show a 6" kit for the same truck. Not sure how they handle the relocation of the sensors or the relearning but they state you retain the factory ride.

Best I can tell is it was an aftermarket package built by a dealership called Courtesy Chevrolet in Arizona that included some performance upgrades that included a supercharger. Haven't been able to find a 2006 that's a Thunder edition to be sure. I have read that those vehicles with that package had some mechanical issues due to the performance upgrades so I believe they stopped making them but I can't find when they did stop. I was also able to find that there is/was a thunder package in the GMT900 series trucks but it seemed to be Canada exclusive. This however was only a trim package, didn't appear to be any performance upgrades.

This question/issue may have been discussed previously in this forum but quite honestly I didn't see the answer to my question when I skimmed the 168 pages of this forum. But that's not to say I didn't miss it but I have installed my fair share of HID kits in various vehicles. I have installed at least 3-4 kits in the new generation Silverados/Sierras and all are working fine except for one kit. It just so happens to be the only kit that didn't have the integrated CANBUS in the ballasts. The problem is that it keeps blowing relays. I am pretty certain it's due to the pulsing voltage of the DRL system. I have used two different types of capacitors placed between the stock wiring and the HID wiring harness and between the bulbs and the ballasts. I don't think the capacitors are supposed to be between the bulbs and ballasts but when they didn't work for me between the stock wiring and the HID harness I started moving things around just to see what happens. When I had the capacitor between the stock wiring and the HID harness I couldn't get the lights to work at all. Has anyone else experienced this issue or have a solution other than carrying a bunch of relays around in the glove box?

I would suggest replacing the thermostat first. They are cheap and relatively easy to get too. If that doesn't fix it then I would look at the fan clutch. In my experience water pumps don't typically get weak, they just fail. If you really want to be thorough, you can removed the thermostat and put it in a pot of hot water on the stove with a thermometer and check to make sure it is opening at the correct temperature. They're usually only about $5-$10 so I would go ahead and replace it to eliminate it from being the culprit of the problem. Thermostat should start to open between 180-195 degrees. If I recall correctly those trucks OEM thermostat were rated at 186 degrees.

Don't know if you were meaning to replace your headlights with the 2015 body style Denali or the 2016 but what I can tell you is that the headlights on the 2015 Denali are no better than the SLE's and SLT's. I had to put HID's in mine just to be able to see at night. GM definitely went backwards on the Sierras as far as headlighting went. I had a 2011 Sierra before the 2015 and it would light up the world with standard halogen bulbs.