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arcasey

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  • Location
    NC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2015 GMC Sierra Denali 5.3L; 1996 Chevy K1500

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  1. Yes, that is what he is saying. The connector that comes on the Morimoto harness is a 9006 female connector. The male connector on the stock wiring harness is a 9012, to mate with the stock 9012 bulbs. What he is saying is cut the stock male connector off and put a 9006 male connector on the stock wiring to mate with the Morimoto 9006 female connector. Now, here's what I would do if you ever wanted to put stock lights back in the truck for any reason. I would clip the wires and put some bullet or blade connectors on the stock wiring harness and the new male 9006 connector. That way you could always put it back to stock if you wanted. Haven't thought of any reason why you ever would go back to the stock lights but at least it gives you options. This is what I'm going to do if I ever run into problems with my kit.
  2. I have a 2015 Sierra that I put a Morimoto HID kit in and I get the same notifications on the monthly Onstar Diagnostic emails. I've not had a single issue with the kit other than the initial installation and the monthly error messages on the report. As far as the intermittent failures I had similar issues right after I installed the kit. As has been said already, the ground was the first thing I checked. My problem ended up being the molded female connectors supplied with the kit to connect to the stock input. I actually removed the female connectors entirely and just used the prongs on the ends of the wires and stuck them into the stock harness. I just used electrical tape to make sure they hold their place but they were pretty snug without the tape so it probably wasn't needed. Since I did that I have not had a single issue. I have also seen some defective ballasts and igniters cause the issues you are experiencing as well. Might want to contact your Morimoto rep on how to troubleshoot those....
  3. Are you reading the voltage from a meter across the battery or the gauge in the dash cluster? And have you also had the battery tested?
  4. There will definitely be some differences between the 1911's. You said you shot a Colt and liked it. You had one of the better mass produced 1911's in Colt. They have been known for a long time for their 1911's and their revolvers. I can't really comment on the springfield quality but I'm sure there are different tiers and maybe the gun you shot was of a lower tier. Another 1911 manufacturer that is kind of a "budget" gun to me is Rock Island. I've heard some good but mostly bad things about them. As far as shooting striker fired guns, they take a little getting used to. There are a lot of little things to do for practice at the range that make a big difference. Glocks are great guns, but they aren't for everybody. I love mine but some people just don't like them. If you like the way a 1911 points that probably explains why you don't like the Glock. The grip angle of the Glocks is slightly different than most manufacturers. The Smith and Wesson M&P line has a grip angle that closely mimics the 1911. I personally like revolvers, but I don't like to shoot them because I feel like the grip is so much different than the 1911 style and the 1911 just feels natural to me. That's why I said put a bunch in your hand and see what feels good but I understand the age restrictions will be an issue for a little while longer.
  5. Yes, they should fit no problem. Those tires shouldn't be much bigger than stock. I've got 285/75/R16 tires on a 96 and they don't rub.
  6. I think you will find that the 586 will be more than enough when carried with 357. I prefer to shoot a 1911 over most any other firearm myself but you need to go to a few gun shops and put anything and everything in your hands and find what feels the best. Don't buy a gun for the name, buy it because it feels good (Hi-Point is an exception to this rule, never buy a Hi-Point). As far as concealed carry, all of those options really depends on your frame size. If you have a large frame, none of those should be hard to conceal. I'm not a large frame but I'm not a small guy either and I have trouble concealing any full size frame firearm. My advice, if you think you may want to conceal carry is get a second firearm for that purpose. Also, 9mm ammo has come a long way these days. The ballistics have improved drastically so you shouldn't be worried about having problems putting anything down, unless of course you run into a bear or moose and then might I suggest a 44 magnum lol.
  7. Just curious, which brands did you try and had the bad experiences with? I had a few cheaper kits that were garbage and then broke down and spent the money on Morimoto and haven't had any issues since so I'm only asking completely out of curiosity.
  8. You can install the HID's in your low beams with no issues because of the DRL's. You would want to (and most of the "better" HID kits come with this) install the HID's using a dedicated wiring harness to provide clean continuous voltage to the HID Ballasts. This harness has a relay that connects to the stock headlight inputs for activating the headlight circuit. There are anti flicker/error correcting capacitors that "smooth" out the DRL voltage so that the HID's operate correctly. There is a field on the Retrofit Source's website on the Morimoto elite kits that are vehicle specific for adding capacitor links. These capacitor links are what correct the issues and sometimes they are not even needed. I'm sure DDM has something similar they can send with their kits as well.
  9. As far as brightness and total lumen output LED bulbs have not caught up to HID's yet. That's not saying that installed in the proper type of projector housing that they won't outperform but installed in OEM assemblies that were not designed for them they will not perform as good as HID's. I helped a friend install a set of LED bulbs in his 2014 Silverado with the projector housing for the low beams. They did not provide any more light than the stock halogens did for down road visibility. He ended up taking them out and putting in HID's and it was much better. Have you considered installing an LED light bar in the open slot on the front of your truck? There are a few bars that will fit inside that void space and would be large enough to throw enough light to improve your down road visibility. You could also wire it to a relay so that it comes on when you switch to high beams and add a secondary switch to disable it when you did not want it on. I have seen people mount them behind the grille as well (depending on the grille that you have) and they put out more light than you would think from behind the grille.
  10. Yes, I remember the hassle. Had to near about tear the front end apart to get to the fixtures. Such a poor design that thankfully was corrected in the new body style.
  11. I can't speak to how the HID's perform in your particular model because I didn't run HID's in my 2011 Sierra, but judging from meeting that body style truck on the highway with HID's I don't think you'll have any issues seeing anything. Honestly you will probably not even need high beam HID's if you put HID's in the low beams. I actually used the Sylvania ZXE bulbs in low and high beam and they were very bright. They DID NOT last very long though. Typically I could only get about 8-9 months before one would blow. To answer your question about longevity, I have the Sierra spec 50W kit in my 2015 Sierra and they have been installed for over a year with no issues. Honestly, so far, the Morimoto bulbs have lasted longer than any high performance halogen/xenon bulb I have ever used. Morimoto makes a very high quality kit. I have tried 3-4 different kits before settling on Morimoto and I'll never buy anything else (in terms of HID kits). Most kits require some modifications before they are "Plug-and-Play". The only issue I had with the Morimoto kit was the plastic female 9006 style connectors not allowing for a good connection. I remedied this by just not using them and inserting the wire pins into the male connectors and using electrical tape to keep them secure. One other thing to note, HID's require time to heat up before they reach their peak output. It can take up to around 10 seconds for them to heat up. Just keep that in mind for your high beams because they aren't just going to turn on when activated like standard halogen or LED bulbs.
  12. As stated above by DJRolle36 you have the ability to select exactly which lights will flash. The module also has the ability to retain the factory operation of the lights. This means headlights can be selected to flash only when they are not activated or you can keep them from flashing all together. You can also do the same thing with the brake lights and the turn signals I believe. Basically they flash until you hit the brakes and then they will go into steady burn. I would assume the reverse lights would work the same way. All it is is a bridge to the BCM for programming what your light circuits do.
  13. Yes they would be similar. You should be able to wig-wag the turn signal lamps and the head lights I believe but everything else would just all flash at the same time (i.e. fog lights, third brake light, cargo lights, side markers, reverse lights, and things like that) More flash patterns may get added later on as the module can be updated.
  14. Yes that's the idea. Now keep in mind that it will only operate as the truck is wired. You may or may not be able to get individual lights to flash independently of each other but it will control individual light circuits.
  15. Yes, I believe it is available for a 2015. I think most places are around $150 for the module. ultrabrightlightz.com has them for 150 + shipping. http://speedturtleengineering.com/ gives the list of compatible vehicles.
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