arcasey

Yes, that is what he is saying. The connector that comes on the Morimoto harness is a 9006 female connector. The male connector on the stock wiring harness is a 9012, to mate with the stock 9012 bulbs. What he is saying is cut the stock male connector off and put a 9006 male connector on the stock wiring to mate with the Morimoto 9006 female connector. Now, here's what I would do if you ever wanted to put stock lights back in the truck for any reason. I would clip the wires and put some bullet or blade connectors on the stock wiring harness and the new male 9006 connector. That way you could always put it back to stock if you wanted. Haven't thought of any reason why you ever would go back to the stock lights but at least it gives you options. This is what I'm going to do if I ever run into problems with my kit.

I have a 2015 Sierra that I put a Morimoto HID kit in and I get the same notifications on the monthly Onstar Diagnostic emails. I've not had a single issue with the kit other than the initial installation and the monthly error messages on the report. As far as the intermittent failures I had similar issues right after I installed the kit. As has been said already, the ground was the first thing I checked. My problem ended up being the molded female connectors supplied with the kit to connect to the stock input. I actually removed the female connectors entirely and just used the prongs on the ends of the wires and stuck them into the stock harness. I just used electrical tape to make sure they hold their place but they were pretty snug without the tape so it probably wasn't needed. Since I did that I have not had a single issue. I have also seen some defective ballasts and igniters cause the issues you are experiencing as well. Might want to contact your Morimoto rep on how to troubleshoot those....

Quick Splice Wire Connector: This should be all you need. I would get some that are weatherproof just to be on the safe side. They don't cost that much more. According to the GM Upfitter guide the high beam wire looks to be "white" or "light blue", unless I'm reading the diagram wrong. Here's a link so you can look at it for yourself: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/578/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf Should be on page 14 of 896

Have you tried connecting the diodes to any other pins other than pin 85? Typical wiring for 4-5 pin relays is: Activation circuit: pins 86 & 85. Pin 86 is usually the power input from the circuit you want to activate the relay and Pin 85 typically goes to ground but it can work either way. Power circuit: pins 30 & 87. Pin 30 is typically incoming 12V power and pin 87 would be the output. So, if it is wired like this I would jump from pin 87 of my high beam relay to pin 86 on the fog light relay. If you have a voltmeter I would check voltages at the relay pins during different states to figure out where I needed to connect my jumper.

The IRS decides to audit Grandpa, and summons him to the IRS office. The auditor was not surprised when Grandpa showed up with his attorney. The auditor said, "Well, sir, you have an extravagant lifestyle and no full-time employment, Which you explain by saying that you win money gambling. I'm not sure the IRS finds that believable." "I'm a great gambler, and I can prove it," says Grandpa. "How about a demonstration?" The auditor thinks for a moment and said, "Okay. Go ahead." Grandpa says, "I'll bet you a thousand dollars that I can bite my own eye." The auditor thinks a moment and says, "It's a bet." Grandpa removes his glass eye and bites it. The auditor's jaw drops. Grandpa says, "Now, I'll bet you two thousand dollars that I can bite my other eye." Now the auditor can tell Grandpa isn't blind, so he takes the bet. Grandpa removes his dentures and bites his good eye. The stunned auditor now realizes he has wagered and lost three grand, with Grandpa's attorney as a witness. He starts to get nervous. "Want to go double or nothing?" Grandpa asks. "I'll bet you six thousand dollars that I can stand on one side of your desk, and pee into that wastebasket on the other side, and never get a drop anywhere in between." The auditor, twice burned, is cautious now, but he looks carefully and decides there's no way this old guy could possibly manage that stunt, so he agrees again. Grandpa stands beside the desk and unzips his pants, but although he strains mightily, he can't make the stream reach the wastebasket on the other side, so he ends up urinating all over the auditor's desk. The auditor leaps with joy, realizing that he has just turned a major loss into a huge win. But Grandpa's own attorney moans and puts his head in his hands. "Are you okay?" the auditor asks. "Not really," says the attorney. "This morning, when Grandpa told me he'd been summoned for an audit, he bet me twenty-five thousand dollars that he could come in here and pee all over your desk and that you'd be happy about it!"

What type of IWB carry are you looking to do? Appendix, small of the back, 3-4 o clock......?

I just picked up a M&P shield 45 about a month ago and it has now become my CCW. No real size difference between the shield 9 and shield 45. I did have to put a Talon grip on the 45 because the factory grip texture is much too abrasive to wear again bare skin. I have seen others sand the grip down to make it more bearable for concealed carry.

Check out Trijicon HD XR sights if you're looking for some good tritium night sights. They won't be cheap but well worth the money. XR sights have a thinner front post than the regular HD sights for better target acquisition at longer ranges.

I can't recall exactly but when I updated my Trinity the last time I had to use an older Windows machine that hasn't been used in a while (I have two MacBooks but the trinity software isn't supported), I had an error message come up and I remember having to search around and make sure all the USB drivers for that computer were updated. Once I went through all that I had no issues. Might be worth a try.

Okay, so after I re-installed the factory tune I installed the 87 Octane tune with the 10% throttle boost and everything seems to be normal now. It must have been a fluke when I changed it last time.

When I noticed the increased idle speed I'm sure the truck was warm, or it should have been. I took about a ten mile drive after I changed the tune parameters and it was about 75 degrees last night. I stopped by my buddy's house because he was outside and I was talking to him and that's when I noticed the difference in the idle speed. Also the temp gauge was reading around 210 degrees while doing so. I re-installed the stock tune when I got home and things were normal again. I may try to re-install the 87 Octane tune and adjust the parameters again and see what happens. I was thinking the way the parameter worked was that as soon as the throttle was pressed it would immediately advance X% forward, i.e. would jump from 0% to 10% throttle as soon as pedal was mashed. Mine acted like the throttle position was moved from 0 to 10% and that is the minimum that it would go down to. But then again, maybe I'm not understanding what the parameter actually changes.

For those of you that have played around with the throttle boost parameter, have you noticed increased engine speed at idle? Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what the parameter does. With the stock tune my truck idles around 550 RPM when in park/neutral and 500 RPM when in gear. With the 87 Octane tune and throttle boost set to 10% the idle speeds change to around 900-1000 in park/neutral and in gear. Is this normal behavior when playing with throttle boost parameters or am I missing something?

Unless I'm mistaken, you can do the diode trick to have the fog lights on with high beams. The circuit that gets controlled with the fog light switch would need to break the fog light circuit down stream from the diode and the switch in order to have control of the fog lights and still maintain auto on. Lamby, would it actually cause problems with the BCM if the fog lights are out of sync? The high beam switch should work no matter what state the fog lights are in because all it should control is the head lights. The BCM is only disabling the fog lights based on the Head light state (high or low beam). Then, if a user wants the fog lights to run with the high beams then all they need to do is the diode trick. At least that's my line of thinking and I am by no means an expert.

My understanding of what the OP wants is for the fog lights to be auto on with the headlights (high or low beam) and then be able to change the state of the fog light circuit (i.e. cycle the lights on or off) by pressing the factory fog light switch. The circuit would need to reset itself to the "original state" once the vehicle was turned off so that the fog lights would be auto on with the head lights the next time the truck was turned on. We were assuming that the factory fog light switch is a momentary pulse type switch.

Okay, that's what i was thinking it was. Another useful option I missed out on along with stock headlights that were actually useful.