Knightfall

I wonder, how far back can you go with older wheels? I assume they have to be at least 17"?

Just got back from the shop, they told me they charged me for the V8 oil change but the tech noticed and did the V6 oil type and amount. The oil level seems a tad high but not alarming and the truck runs fine, and obviously the shop gave me a refund. What are yalls thoughts? I would absolutely do my own oil changes if I didn't live in an apartment complex with very little room to work.

Well they definitely put in 8 quarts when my engine takes 6. No risk of long term issues though I hope for a few miles of commuting until it's fixed? It says 5W-30 in huge white letters on the oil filler cap, the engine looks smaller in the engine bay, and there are clearly only 6 spark plugs. Kind of frustrating.

Like the title says. I have the 4.3 which calls for 5W-30. I tried a new, nearby shop and they put in 0W-20. Does it matter at all? Possibly done because of the upcoming cold weather?

I was fiddling around with my insurance company's quote generator last night, plugging in different configurations of the Silverado as well as other trucks and larger SUV's. I know insurance is pretty nebulous and varies alot per person but dang, my Silverado was almost half as much to insure as some other full sized trucks! And I never picked higher trim levels either, I only played with cab and engine size, and whether or not it had 4x4.

That's true, and it's funny becasue I really like the Dodge/GM V6 entry level engines alot, better than the Ford packages. I would love for a gas straight 6 to become an option again.

Traction control is fine for keeping me from burning out at a stop sign if I hit the gas a little too hard. But when I'm stuck it sucks because it doesn't let the tires dig. This is quite ironic since the reason a vehicle gets stuck is lack of traction.

Is it hard to remove/different to remove on the Chevy's? It doesn't look different on 2016+ but the previous threads mad kind of a big deal about it.

I put 30k a year on my truck, mixed everything from 2000+ mile interstate trips to forest roads. It doesn't bother me as, just with any other vehicle I've been involved with, I intend on keeping the oil changed. My dad put 250k on a PT Cruiser from heavy commuting and that car ran like a champ from basic maintenance. I just figure if you get a vehicle, get your money's worth out of it and drive it.

Both sizes fit without a leveling kit, so you can go bigger.

By rear mounted winch, I'm meaning one which attatches to the trailer hitch receiver, as it seems a little easier than mounting it to the front (though I may be wrong and any advice regarding a winch would be appreciated).

Getting ready for my first hunting season in Northern NY, and my two-wheel drive truck Trying to be relatively smart (and let's be honest, hooking on tire chains or hooking up a winch is way more fun and satisfying then just engaging 4x4 ), I'm perusing around the interwebs for some self-recovery aids. Are there any that anyone has any experience with that are particularly good? I'm looking at both trac-grabbers, regular chains (what to look for when getting these?), and open to anything else. Thinking about tailgate mounting a winch but I would have no idea where to start in regards to powering the thing? Looking forward to anything anyone wants to post!

I love Grade Braking on my truck. If you've ever been deep enough in the Appalachians that there are ramps on the side of major highways for tractor trailers to pull up for when they lose their brakes, that's where it comes in handy. It's not really a "nanny" as it's just an engine brake. I also don't think it's activated by the grade itself, but via acceleration when coasting vs the driver pressing the brake to slow down.

Sometimes a better air filter and transmission/oil cooler is mentioned. Not sure how that applies specifically to 2017's though. Biggest deal is the shocks and G80 (which is ordered on almost all trucks anyway).

That truck is gonna be way too expensive. Even the new Custom package for the Tahoe, supposed to be a more base "utility" model, is 45k. I'm considering an SUV for my next vehicle and if that's the route I go I'm getting a Durango or possibly even a Kia Sorento. Half the price (almost) of a Tahoe.