Dndodd

I had some issues but never as bad as some here reported. Things I have done. 1. Bilstein 5100 setting 2 up from the bottom. 2. Torqued the rear u bolts to 100ft lbs. 3. Got rid of the oem Goodyears at less than 500 miles after the dealer had road force balanced and replaced one or two. Replaced with top of the line Goodyears I suffered with until 25,000 miles with multiple road force balancing and rotations at my expense. One tire was out of spec at over 30lbs. Then I bought a new set of Michelins from Costco. No road force balancing there. But after almost 10,000 miles I am very very pleased. Normal vibrations equal to my wife's highlander. 2016 SLT 4x4 20" wheels

Here is my story. Had a vibration from day one flat spots on the tires it will go away. Should have real quickly If true. Went to the dealer and they RFB the tires and replaced several. I had the LS2's the poorest excuse for a truck tire from Goodyear I have ever seen. I pitched a fit about the safety of the tires. They spun very easily and weren't exactly confidence inspiring in the braking department either. Long story short I returned them to Goodyear and paid the difference for their best tire I think wrangler AT with a Kevlar belt. Much better tire. Pitched a fit with GM too and received a concession. Felt good at first still vibrated then I had them rotated and balanced again at 6,000 miles felt good for about 50 miles. All this time I was experiencing vibrations over 70 sometimes worse then others like everything got in sync tires, roadway, and whatever and it really vibrated. In addition I have changed to Bilstein 5100's which is nice improvement in ride and handling IMO. Tried them at their highest setting to level the truck but didn't like the ride of the compressed springs. Settled on one setting above stock and I am very pleased. So around 6500 miles I am little irritated with the vibration and trips to the dealer are a real PITA where I am currently working. After reading every post on this board I am ready to try the driveshaft. But since I had the front shocks lowered to one above stock the the steering wheel is cocked slightly to the right which bothers me. The shop did a poor job on the alignment. So I take it to Parker Tire in Tallassee,Al and ask them to correct the alignment and RFB the tires. They said most of the tires had too much weight. All but one tire was in spec under 25 lbs the other over 32. But the improvement was very noticeable. I also somewhere in the this time frame torqued my axle u bolts to 80 lbs whiched helped also. Around 12,500 miles noticed the vibrations coming back some. Back to Parker for another RFB and rotation which put the one out of spec tire on the back. Truck is really smooth. Plus I torqued the bolts to 100lbs and I noticed the truck just felt tighter. The only time I notice vibrations now are ones I blame on the road surface. So from my experience I would suggest tightening the u bolts to 100lbs getting a good RFB where they will actually rotate the tires on the wheels to get the best balance. Changing the shocks might help too. Also my son had a 2014 GMC CC all terrain with stock Bridgestone tires and never complained of any vibration issues during the 35,000 miles he had it.

I tried that deal with them about 6 months ago or so placed an order got a call that the shocks wouldn't fit my truck. Hope it works for you as it didn't for me.

Did you try to buy them? I did found out they were basically four rears which won't work.

IMO good tires not the stock goodyears, air pressure 32-33, and 5100's on the lowest or one up from the lowest(which is where I have it) should make for a better ride at least it has for me.

I was getting frustrated with my truck approximately 7,000 miles on it. The dealer originally road force balance the lousy Goodyear ls2 tires reducing the vibration to an acceptable level. But those tires are horrible. I upgraded at 700 miles to Goodyear Wrangler AT much better traction and braking. The Goodyear store didn't have road force balancing though and after the first rotation and rebalance the vibration just got unacceptable. Was really thinking about checking out the drive shaft. Then I just decided to have the tires road forced balanced. The shop had to remove all the existing weights and start over. One tire is out of spec at approximately 32 pounds the others were in the 20 lb area. The results were a very significant improvement or reduction in vibration. My guess the vibration will come back in the next 1000 miles. If it does I will be seeking out a shop that will sell me a set of Michelins and road force balance them to 15lbs or less per the GM spec. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM508457/SB-10059132-8827.pdf

I for one think your fix makes sense and is worth a try. My vibration gets worse with speed really noticeable above 80. Makes sense to me that it could be the drive shaft. Now if I can just find a place in Birmingham or Montgomery that will true a driveshaft.

I would disagree the difference in ride was very noticeable.

But after considering the 60 series tires adds 5lbs of rotating mass I will pass and stick with the 55's.

Yes. When I do new tires I was planning on 275/60/20 versus 55 and I think those are 33" which should not be a problem at all. IMHO

My experience with the 5100's. Initially with the stock rear shocks and the 5100's at the highest level in front nice improvement in ride. Stock close enough to level for me. Add the 5100 rear shocks stiffer but tolerable around town didn't think my wife would like the ride on a long trip so I changed the rears back to stock. Went on the trip loaded the bed full of stuff I am guessing 300-400 lbs. Thought the truck rode a little high in the front which I didn't like. Also the more I drove the truck the more I felt the front was over sprung in the front on the highest setting due to the compression of the spring in the highest setting. Thought about buying a spring compressor and experimenting. But I won't have the time. So I had a shop drop the fronts to the 2nd height level or 1 setting above stock which is how I had my Tundra set up. No more over sprung feeling and the truck rides great. Currently have the stock rears on but will put the 5100's back on soon as it is very easy to do. The truck is not level but I would rather have the better ride. The Tech who did worked on it both times got out of this time and said great truck.

Thanks for that feedback. Did u have to disassemble anything else when removing the strut?

I have used those on small cars before and they barely work and are dangerous. I have done some research and the following should work pretty well for my occasional use and be somewhat cost effective; OTC 6592 StrutTamer Extreme with Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DV78LM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BDFDSAA8F88D&coliid=I3EG1M315VA3G3

I am thinking of experimenting with the settings on my 5100's. I have it on the highest setting now. I am thinking of lowering one or two notches or trying both to compare look and and ride. Anybody have any recommendations on Macpherson Spring compressors? I have used the Auto store rentals on lessor springs than this and don't want to even try with these springs. At $200 for strut changes before alignment I am thinking they could pay for themselves fairly quickly.

Email them and they will respond quickly at least they did for me.

This is pretty much what mine does but mostly between 1000 and 1500 rpm under load. I just put it a tank of premium in and noticed most but not all of it went away. Feels like it is missing or hesitating.

Not sure where or how you are measuring. The 5100's at the highest level look pretty level on my truck. I used a 4' level on the bed of the truck and figured stock I had about a 2.5 drop in the front now using the same method about 1/2-3/4". Not optically noticeable to me the truck looks flat. I have the z60 suspension.

I had 5100's put on the front this AM. Rode great on the way home very happy. Just put the rears on myself took it for a ride slightly stiffer but still great and I would never go back to Stock. Never had Beltech's, had Bilsteins on my last truck and was very happy. The Bilsteins are much better than my Z60 set up on my 1400 mile Sierra. Not sure you would feel that way but I a do.

Correct they are not adjustable like the front but they are designed to handle raising the rear with a block at least 1" I think I read in this thread they may also work up to a 2" raise but I would double check that.

Thanks, Mine only has 1200 miles on it and the transmission has never seemed to be consistent. One minute it seems OK then it acts up as described in the threads. Jerky, Shudders, etc.

No Idea. I received it the last two weeks and sent it back the next day after those problems. I thought maybe it was an 8spd issue because I had read else where the tuners where having a difficult time with the 8 speeds. My truck had about 600 miles on it at the time.

It didn't work correctly om my 2016 5.3 8 speed. Locked it one gear doing 60 the engine was at 4,000 RPM. I returned it the next day.

I like the the Premier LTX on my son's suburban and the my Mom's RX 350 but I an in Alabama and not too concerned about snow. I think any of the Michelins would be a good choice. Mine came with Goodyear LS2's and I think they are horrible. Took the dealer 5 tires to get two that would balance correctly on the drivers side. On top of that they are bad in the rain.

Found it had to look under 2015 tried 2016 first.