blazerk5drew

I Installed these on a friends truck. Gravity bled them one at a time until fluid came out and bled normally with two people. Don't let the small reservoir go empty and it will be ok. I didn't have a wheel sensor plugged in all the way and the truck went crazy when we started back up. It took several restarts to clear the error once the sensor was plugged back in.

Had this happen on my 19 at about 10k miles (Actually was dripping). Seal was on a nationwide back order so I had to wait about 1 month before the parts even came in. I am also very hesitant to let other people work on my vehicles. I made sure that a driveline tech was performing the repairs and pre-loading the pinion bearing correctly. Seal replaced under warranty. No issues 15k later. I would also pay close attention once the repairs are performed to make sure the rear axle isn't whining from over tightening of the pinion nut. I have seen people drive these on with an impact gun not understanding what they were doing. That being said, the amount of oil on that seal is about a drop worth. As CamGTP stated, maybe clean it and keep an eye on it. If you start to see oil splattered around the gas tank area, probably time for a seal. I also found that the factory fill level was way low. I check all fluid levels when I first purchase a vehicle.

I never said anything about headers! The only way I would install them is if tuning would be readily available. Other than that a PITA. I had a terrible time with them on my K5

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Be careful with the CV boot. They are pretty delicate. if you have a torque wrench for the CV axle that would be prefered for re installation. I think Autozone or similar will rent you any tools you do not have including the axle nut socket. where did you get the brakes from?

15mm I believe. You might need a swivel socket and impact gun as the bolts are very tight and have plenty of loctite on them. after the cv nut is removed, a couple of whacks with a dead blow should take care of it on a new truck. Make sure your wheel sensor is free!

This was on a 19 correct? Any CEL? 6.2? Thanks.

Rubbing alcohol and a microfiber. Learned this from a guy that details exotic cars. I assume the splatter gets worse at 200 MPH

Where did you get them? I have been contemplating for a while after seeing them in person on a Tahoe. Are the rear calipers just pained factory ones?

I set no bar, you did. Oh don't worry there are other reports somewhere back in my inbox or deleted folder from some 3+ years ago. This is just one of them. 7500 interval was established based partially on the advisement from yes, lab analysis. They also make recommendations. Total Base Number was established on prior reports and also again when I had an isolated lead spike at some 60+k miles. Sounds like you are more an oil expert than anyone on the forum or lab. So what is your honest opinion? Must have missed it above. Any further analysis or effort suggest that the time and effort are not worth it. Just wait for the engine to blow up and replace with a 800$ junk yard heap and you would be money ahead. Now I see why they call you Grumpy. Well, you call you Grumpy.?

I used blackstone labratories to adjust my intervals. The happy and conservative place for my 5.3 was around 7500 miles and 0% on the Oil life. I stuck with that approximate interval for the time I owned it. I would like to note that this truck spent a significant time using e85 which, although burns fairly clean, can mess with oil pH. Aside from the oil smelling line corn liquor, it never had any noticeable impact on oil quality. It was nice to actually know. Check out the report below. Blackstone is good stuff. I also remember when manufacturers said 3k miles for intervals or every~ 9 gas fill ups! 14 SILVERADO-111215.pdf

107 for my max tow. I found out passing a trash truck that was spilling stuff out the bottom. Not my cup of tea in a pickup truck but it happened.

You are so upset by this that you had to reply with nonsense twice? The point is it probably wont matter for most people when they do the first oil change. It used to be a recommendation from manufactures back in the day when I worked at a shop. We would regularly clear 300k miles on vehicles that never had any break in oil changes or shortened intervals. This is back when it was recycled citgo dino oil as well on a 7.5k interval. 100k is not any expectation. Just a point of reference. Just how much of this have you made up in your own mind?

On my 14 5.3 I peeled out of the dealer lot with 100 miles on it and didn't change the oil until it was over 7k miles. Beat the pants off of it for 100k miles and just traded it in for my SLT 6.2 back in June. I don't think changing break-in oil is much of a thing anymore. I have always ran Amsoil SS even though I bet cheaper oil could have produced similar results. Bottom line: Check your oil level! All DI engines burn oil even if some guy says he ran for 12k miles and didn't burn a drop. Secondly, change your oil at some reasonable interval (Not 3k miles and not 30k miles.) Lastly I would say just use some reasonable quality oil. That being said, I changed the oil in the new truck at 1100 miles. I hope your are genuinely confused now.

I will say it was more difficult to find but overall I am happy with the decision to have performance over luxury. After driving this 10 speed, I could never drive a 6 speed again. Still wish GM would let us pick Gear ratios a la carte