OnTheReel

Plug-in hybrids like that are interesting as far as UOAs. Engine could see very little run time / actual mileage if the truck is run in battery only mode frequently. Might explain the crazy fuel dilution if it never runs up to temp?

Yeah, not sure why the pin is even there, mine rolls fine without pulling it too. Battery is small but an AGM. Mine has done very well. Always starts, never even had it on a charger. Cub has two different product lines just like John Deere. There’s some “affordable” box store models, and then some fancier dealer-only models.

I’ve had my Cub XT2 for 3 years now, no issues. Mow in the summer and plow snow in the winter. 42” fab deck, Kawasaki motor.

I was just thinking. I’ve seen a lot of Mobil 1 vs Pennzoil Platinum discussion over the years. Nowadays when the same GTL base stock is going into both “competing” brands, and additives are more or less determined by the specs they meet…it really seems pointless to even compare the vast majority of shelf oils. I really don’t like how either company formulates their oil. Most 0w40s would be better marketed as 0w30s at this point. Any duration of use drops them well into that range. The DexosR M1 is something along the lines of 9% VII so it’s no surprise I guess. ESP X3-X4 is somewhere around 7% IIRC.

And that’s their “good” 0w40. The Supercar (DexosR) version leans heavier on GTL (50-75%) and the HTHS is only ~3.5 vs ~3.8 for the ESP. Seems a little weird trying to market that as a “track” oil…

The Extra Guard is and always was a low-end filter. Still, it also has to be the most popular filter by a large margin. Especially when you include the SuperTech relabels at WalMart. Considering the sheer number sold you don’t really hear of issues in spite of it’s very cheap construction. IMO the Ultra, the Endurance (WalMart) and the Titanium (Advance Auto) are the only Frams I’d use. But obviously plenty of motors have done fine on the orange cans including cars I had back when I was dirt poor and didn’t have the money for something better. Damn sure didn’t go 10k on one though.

(Lack of) storage space and time keeps my collection fairly small. Thankfully I don’t really have to agonize over getting rid of anything I own now since there’s nothing appealing to buy instead. Pretty much everything new is a boring appliance and I already have a few classics so I’m all set.

Awesome fleet there. I did a 455 swap in this 67. (Cutlass, not a real 442). Cherry California car. I drove like 4 hours to pick the motor up. Guy said it burned rubber in all 4 gears in his Trans Am and ran great. Put it in and discovered just about every rod bearing spun. lol. I was so disgusted and annoyed I just sold the car and moved on. Shoulda just left the 330 4 barrel in there! Shoulda kept the car too.

Very cool. I am down to one Olds these days but she’s a keeper.

I’m more of an Olds guy. I miss the big old coupes like my 92’ Toronado. L27 (3800 series 1). Our family had 4 of these. 86, 88, 90 and 92. Very unique looking cars with hidden headlights harkening back to the original 66 version. They ride like a dream and have the most comfortable seats I’ve sat in. Huge trunk too. Of course they were all extremely reliable as well. That’s why we kept buying them!

The operative phrase. That paper is focused on one variable and doesn’t consider any “other factors” even though they are important in the big picture. Like…can the oil keep the rings clean over such a long interval?

I would stop short of saying defective / horrible. It mainly suffers from the same circumstances that most modern engines do. Cheap oil at too long of intervals and owners treating everything like a rent-a-car. You can find similar legal sites with just about any car as the subject. Mine uses none and runs like a sewing machine so it doesn’t matter. Not against an idiot light until they are used in place of a dipstick. I’ve never had a dipstick fail. Tank level sensors like those used in an oil pan, however, can and do fail really easily.

https://thelemonfirm.com/2022/03/01/jeep-cherokee-2-4l-tigershark-oil-consumption-causes-engine-to-stall/

The engine in my Jeep will shut down around 2 quarts low. Lots of people find that out the hard way and take to the internet bitching because they never check (let alone change) their oil. Anyway, on mine, the intake valves are ONLY coupled to the cam hydraulically. So no oil, no oil pressure, no intake valves, no run. I’m sure a lot of engines are like this in some way or another. But I don’t think it’s an intentionally placed failsafe. Thankfully I don’t have any oil burners. Once trust is established I go several weeks without checking. As long as I don’t see a puddle on the ground lol!

I was wondering how she was doing as far as rust. The few of those that I still see around here are looking pretty crusty in the usual GM places. Would be hard for me to stick a new motor into something like that, even if it might make sense to do it. I hate rust more than anything in the world.

It’s just like anything else. They have models that cater to the budget market (orange cans) and then some high end filters. Fram Ultra Fram Titanium (Advance Auto version of the Ultra) Fram Endurance (Walmart exclusive, made by Champion Labs, same media as Amsoil & Royal Purple but $12 instead of $20)

I was talking to a guy who swears Amsoil in his transmission stopped the slip yoke on the driveshaft from binding and thumping. The slip yoke is bolted to a flange on the back of the transfer case so that’s not even possible. Next thing you know he’ll say Amsoil helped him regrow his hair and lose 20 pounds too. Passion is great, but the fanatical brand loyalty crap loses me.

The dealers ain’t too bad. It’s the guys that use Amsoil in everything, tell everyone else to do the same and won’t even entertain the thought that there might be something more suitable for a certain application. Don’t get me wrong, I use some Amsoil but their true believer fan base is a little nuts at times.

Interesting. I was looking into the 0w40 version and it appears to be majority PAO based on the SDS. Must be using something other than an ester alongside it. AN seems doubtful but I dunno.

I don’t know the guy, but supposedly it is done every 4k, which is probably like once a month at the rate he runs. Not excessive but more frequent than GM calls for. I’m sure the highway miles help a lot too. But it’s still impressive for any motor let alone one with AFM and all the other stuff people say is faulty, bad metallurgy, etc.

Saw this pop up on another site. 2016 5.3. 404k miles, original engine. Amazing things happen when you change your oil more than recommended.

Flank steak chimichangas. Loaded with beans and cheese and then deep fried.

The OEMs have to warranty the cats longer than the engine so it’s no surprise they cut back the ZDDP.

Yep. 80 degree swing in just 18 hours up here (if you factor in the wind chill/ “feels like” temperature). 60 degrees if even if you don’t. Wild.

Thanks, that looks pretty good!