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iwannaseeatnight

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Everything posted by iwannaseeatnight

  1. iwannaseeatnight
    My '17 denali 6.2 started this around 2 months ago, at around 4k miles, and has gotten progressively louder. Held the phone down by my feet and recorded it. Played it for the service dept. during my scheduled service last week and was told it was "normal", due to the exhaust valve for 4cyl mode. If that was the case, why hasn't it done it from the beginning, and why is it getting louder? But "there's nothing they can do". I guess that's what professional grade sounds like!
  2. iwannaseeatnight
    I had the same headlight error in my OnStar reports. Went away after about 4 months or so.
  3. iwannaseeatnight
    You don't. You may have the fogs on, but when you activate the high beams the relay cuts power to the fogs. If you look at the foreground between the first and second picture, you can see the halo of the fogs on the road in the second picture is absent in the first. Not sure why they set it up like that. You would think if you are using your highs you are looking for maximum light output so the fogs should stay on, but GM engineers thought differently I guess.
  4. iwannaseeatnight
    Got them on order. Thanks!
  5. iwannaseeatnight
    So back in August I installed FX-R's and Mori HIDs. Instead of baking the lens off I cut the housing open per FastHeadlight's instructions. When finished I used 4" wide roofing repair tape (the aluminum backed mastic tape) to wrap around the housing and then even used a torch to heat the tape to the point that the mastic was almost starting to melt and really pushed it down all around to get a good seal. I then drilled holes in the dust caps and installed the TRS supplied grommets. The issue I've noticed recently is that whenever it has been raining or early mornings that the windows are fogged (so high humidity conditions), the inside of the headlight lenses are fogged. It goes away a few days after the rain has ended. I feel good about the seal around the housing, but could that much moisture really be coming in around the grommet in the dust cap? Has anyone else noticed this after a HID retro? There's no water droplets, just a fine fog that the heat of the light burns off in the center. I would think having any moisture in there would be detrimental to the life of the bulbs. Something to worry about?
  6. iwannaseeatnight
    My kit came with a cable to extend the OEM plug outside of the housing (with the AMP> D2S cable), where it is then plugged into the Cap and the Cap is grounded under the corner strength bar on the front clip on the passenger side. If you don't have the extension, I think the OEM cable itself is long enough to be brought outside the housing. I received the mopar kit as well. TRS states that it is the same as GM. You are correct, sir. Sierra with LED DRLs.
  7. iwannaseeatnight
    I had messed up on mine the first time by going OEM Input> Cap> Ballast, which eliminated my driver's side light. Not sure what kit/harness you are using, but for the Morimoto Elite HD Harness it should be OEM Input> Cap> Relays> Ballasts. I don't have the DRL thru HIDs, so I don't know anything about them.
  8. iwannaseeatnight
    Went out at lunch and disconnected the battery for about 30min then reconnected. Light's off and remote start works again. Hope to be in the clear. Thanks guys!
  9. iwannaseeatnight
    Thanks, I'll have to check that tonight. I did disconnect the MAF sensor when removing the air box for install, and then turned ignition to run when testing the lights with the MAF still unhooked. I got a few emails from OnStar saying that the lights weren't functioning (when I was testing and metering them) and another stating engine/transmission issue.
  10. iwannaseeatnight
    So I installed my FX-Rs and Morimoto Elite HD kit (35W, 5500K) and XB fogs this weekend. On initial wiring, I lost track of a couple connectors from the relay (in a rush) and hooked the Cap directly to the ballast on the passenger side. When I turned them on, no light on the driver's side. After metering and finding no power to the driver's side ballast, I went through checking connections and discovered my mistake. I changed it to Cap>Relay>Ballasts and bingo, both lights on. I went out that night, to a closed business down the street with a level lot and wall to adjust vertical aim, and I noticed that my check engine light is on. Still on this morning all the way to work. Also discovered my remote start doesn't work now, which I'm assuming is disabled because of the check engine light. I'm wondering if my initial mis-wire gave an error, registered as a "hard" code, and I just need to have the code read and erased. Or is it something else? Anyone else run into this or have any ideas??
  11. iwannaseeatnight
    I go back and forth. I purchased the Morimoto retro butyl since at one point I was considering switchbacks for the LED DRLs, but I'm holding off on that for now. Since I don't have much business in the front, I'm leaning more towards just cutting the back and I think just for the projector retro it should give me the access I need. If you don't mind me asking, what do housings go for on ebay? OEM assemblies I've found are about $1200 for the pair.
  12. iwannaseeatnight
    I heard back from Josh with FastHeadlights a couple days ago. For anyone that may order from their website in the future, use the shipping selection "Online Only/No Shipping". It threw me off, thinking something was wrong, but he told me that they have everyone select that, as shipping is included. So I placed my order for the Sierra FX-R Adapter Brackets and hopefully will do my retro this weekend or next.
  13. iwannaseeatnight
    I've done a good bit of research and checking of products getting ready for my own retro, and everything I've come across states that 5000K+ is pure white (venturing into blues in the 6000K+ range). I work in highway/roadway construction, specifically lighting and traffic signals, and I know when it comes to roadway lighting fixtures 5500K is a "cool white". Granted that is with LEDs. Can't comment on the 35w vs. 50w as I'm waiting on one more part before tackling my project. I went with the Morimoto Elite 35w, had some concerns over the heat of a 50w. And as you stated, anything would be an improvement over what they came with.
  14. iwannaseeatnight
    I'll have to see if I can find something on them in search engines. I have never been a facebook user. I sent another email to [email protected] yesterday morning, so we'll see. Couldn't find a phone number on their site. Their adapters and watching an install seems like they have a good product, just want to make sure everything is right on the checkout screen (won't let me select any shipping method other than none) before I order.
  15. iwannaseeatnight
    Does anyone know of any companies that makes an adapter plate for the FX-R Sierra retro? I found that FastHeadlights has one, but I can't get checkout to work on their site and so far no one has responded to email. Has anyone used that adapter, or do you just fab your own?
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