No, I thought about getting that bracket kit but the ones that came with the light bar were perfect and fit just right. Only think I had to do was use longer bolts to go through the stock bar on the truck. That's why I went with the 32" instead of the 20" light bar. It lined up just right in the lower part of the grill too. As for the switches, I bought the factory piece that comes with the trailer brake because it was already smooth. Once you remove the trailer brake piece from the back, you just have to cut out for the two switches which isn't much and they fit just right.
I'm currently running Falken Wildpeak AT3s 305/55/20 which measure out to 33" and the only rubbing I have is at full turn. Other than that, no issues and they ride smooth, no road noise.
Installed some lights under the hood just in case. Put a hood pin switch so they come on when the hood opens. And the horn in the pic is not hooked up, didn't like the sound of it.
Ran into the same issue on mine, although I think it was my fault. I cleaned the MAF before reinstalling it but don't think I gave it enough time to dry so I ended up having to replace it. After that though, everything was fine and ran smooth.
Here's what I did in mine. Fuse box was purchased on Amazon, along with all connectors and accessories. This allows me to add 7 additional accessories, all of which run off their own relay. Accessory wires run to the connection blocks under the hood, which makes it easier, and the switch wires are all already pre-wired inside the cab. I ran those wires through a small grommet just under the door hinge on the driver side, very easy and I didn't have to cut the big rubber grommet on the firewall like some do. Everything is loomed nice and neat to keep it "factory" looking as much as possible.
The red ones are for thinner gauge wire and the blue ones are for a slightly thicker gauge, there are also yellow ones available that are for even thicker gauge wire. They have their pros and cons just like everything else out there, it just depends on whether or not you want to go back and replace them after a while since they'll be prone to the elements and the small metal inserts can/might rust causing connection issues.
I like it so far. I've noticed the buttons are a little harder, more firmer, but I like it and I prefer the looks of this one over others I've seen. And I've got two so if one messes up, I'm good. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Did a few things today. First I replaced the factory horns with new ones, easier than I thought, didn't even have to pull off the front grille. Second, installed the Pedal Commander. And last, probably the easiest mod anyone can do, swapped out the remote. Got two for around $21 on Amazon. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I just bought one of the same but with different intentions in mind but I would assume something has to be programmed on the computer for it work. From what I've read, the LT models come with a lot of extra wiring for additional features that come stock on the LTZ models but are not enabled/turned on. I think the dealer has to either flash or reprogram the computer to enable/turn on those features. I got mine so I can add additional switches so I'll be cutting the trailer brake portion out, I just needed the flat part so the switches would sit flush.
Nice truck, love the yellow fogs. Haven't checked my engine hours lately but my 2015 just went over the 60k mile mark just last month. This year in Oct it will be 6 years old, I bought it brand new with only 7 miles on it. I don't really take it on long trips though and I only work 13 miles from my house, one way.
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