swathdiver

I tell everyone in hopes it'll save a life should that day ever come.

Thanks. What saved me, besides prayer, was using the CPAP machine until the paramedics arrived.

Me too, I drag race but only a few times a year now for fun. These shafts are breaking because they are not made for turning more than 5,000 rpms at speed, that appears to be their "critical speed". These new trucks have 2 or 3 overdrive gears and are computer limited to the speed rating of their tires, generally speaking. So the shafts are made as light as possible to be as efficient as possible and are designed to be near those limits. I once hit 148 mph in my Buick GN, just did the math, that driveshaft was turning just over 6,700 rpms! Yours at the same speed would have been turning just over 5,850 rpms. When aluminum driveshafts first came out for our cars, we twisted them into pretzels while power-braking them for launch. Went back to steel and no more problems. I have a question for you, is there less stress on the drivetrain power-braking the car for launch or flashing the converter off idle for launch? I've been flashing the converters off idle for launch in our trucks but not sure if there's a few tenths to be gained by power-braking them. On the other hand, it's 117 miles to home and don't want to leave parts all over the 60 foot!

So why did all those guys leave their driveshafts twisted into pieces on the highway on this forum who hit 112 mph? Don't forget, unlike a Turbo 400, most of these guys had two or more overdrive gears. Enquiring minds want to know.

Normal. The gauge is intentionally dampened to maintain a steady temperature even the actual temp fluctuates a bit. If you get into real trouble, it will go up as intended. Drive on.

You can drag race all day long and not break a driveshaft with a stock or relatively stock truck. Take it up to 112 mph or so and you can add your photos of twisted driveshafts to the others (K2s) on this site. It seems to me that GM makes them to run up to about 5,000 rpms or so.

Glad you made it. I too survived a Saddle PE two winters ago. Took some wind out of my sails but still here trucking along.

GMs thinking is that it costs fuel to carry fuel so they give just enough to travel a certain range. The feds used to consider the fuel tank part of the emissions system and that's why nobody has made gasoline tanks for a long time. I reckon that will soon change.

Embolism?

Still need help with this?

Seems like we're getting this question every week now Dave!

In order to downgrade your truck to a 4L60 you would have to swap in new wiring harnesses and multiple programming operations and a new cluster, shifter, cross member, etc. Less expensive and aggravating to just overhaul the 6L80.

You could drop a 2012 engine in and leave VVT unplugged. It would need a tune as the later motor has slightly larger injectors and a different camshaft grind. Those later LC9s use VIN 7 as 3 was needed for another engine.

The tire guys get confused. I give them a print out and even chalk the tires and they still get confused. About 15 years or so ago this became a thing, putting new tires on the rear regardless of drive type. I disagree with it, even after seeing their videos trying to justify it. I was a tire professional many years ago. Tire wear is different at each wheel position. Having each tire spend time at each position ensures that all tires wear evenly. I had an upper ball joint that was going and by following the RWD rotation, all of the tires eventually took on the same outside wear pattern after 55K miles rather than having to replace 2 on one side in half the time. They would have gone longer had father time not interfered, they were dry rotted. Maybe there is some benefit to crossing the tires as they move up front because of the additional weight bias on FWD vehicles which prioritizes even tire wear. For RWD, having the tires move straight forward from the rear would offer a better ride and less chance of a tire pull.

Tire shops automatically do it this way because it simple and fast.

Perfectly normal! We do RWD Cross Rotations every oil change, about every 5K miles. Meaning, the front tires are crossed as they go the rear and the rears come straight forward. The opposite is done with Front Wheel Drive automobiles.

There's no torque spec to crank down on the pinion nut. Torque is established by the rotational torque reading in inch/pounds. You don't measure how much torque it took to remove the nut and add 3-5 pounds when putting it back on. Some guys like Marty who use witness marks get away with it. I reckon that Marty didn't crank past the full width of the witness mark when he put his back on. Half a hair maybe, Grumpy Bear?

Before you take the pinion off, you need to measure the rotational torque in inch-pounds of the axle. Preferably without the brakes on. When you torque the new nut back on, add 3-5 inch pounds more to that original number to keep pressure on the crush washer. Go slow for if you add too much torque the axle will grenade itself in short order.

It's a royal pain. Different shifter, cluster, wiring harness, computers, cross member, etc. Lots of programming to make it work. Check over at the Performance Trucks forum for folks who have done this before.

What is your VIN#?

Who supplies which one? AAM purchased the GM Saginaw Division for axles some time ago. GM opened up a new factory?

Not a smart idea. The shocks need air and without she'll be sitting on the bump stops and ride terribly.

Time for new sensors, seven years has been average for my fleet.

You are supposed to set the parking brake before you put the transmission into park. By not doing so you have damaged the parking pawl inside the transmission. If you are setting the brake and she's rolling, the parking brakes need to be adjusted.

2010 axle has a 1 inch wider track width. 2010 axle has different type of speed sensor. May have different anchor block for parking brake cables. Probably has 1355 pinion yoke so you might need conversion joint. It's best to stick with same generation.