swathdiver

This usually happens with weak or faulty batteries or loose cables causing intermittent shorts. Mine reset when my daughter left the key on with the headlights, radio, AC, etc. going for an hour once. Either the guy the dealership was hired last night or he's lying. For many problems, GM instructs dealerships to say they've never ever heard of such and such problem before.

Our experience is that aftermarket actuators leave a lot to be desired, if they work at all. Stick with GM OE/ACDelco. Buy once, cry once.

They must be recalibrated with a scan tool. Unplugging the battery doesn't do it. You also have to use the right ones as the wrong ones work the opposite or not at all. Aftermarket actuators don't last if they even work. Different actuators for different AC type, verify your RPO code versus the part numbers you used. The best way to know what's going on is to pull the internal BCM codes. I recently learned that if you have an Apple IPhone with the CarScanner app, it can read BCM codes. Of course, you still have to calibrate them correctly.

TCCMs have to be programmed to your vehicle. Stick with GM OE, the aftermarket sensors and computers do not play nice with the electronics on the truck. Has a bi-directional scan tool been put on the truck to make sure a new TCCM is necessary?

The tune is the foundation upon which all of the other mods build upon. I would have Lew or BlackBear tune the truck to your requirements, not a fan of canned tunes. BlackBear has done 2 of my 3 so far.

Usually that would make it hard to start but surely is worth looking at, good catch!

No luck at the dealer? Gas or diesel?

You ought to get a scan tool that can record what's going on when the problem crops up. My first thought on reading this is that this is a problem when the system goes into closed loop mode once the motor gets to temp. Could also be heat related. So having said that I believe it's induction related, MAP, MAF sensor problem.

Had the same issue, the culprit was the light bulbs in the headliner. Pulled down the receptacle and cleaned the connections, put in new factory bulbs and all was well. Have an IPhone? Download Car Scanner App and use your OBDII adapter to pull up BCM codes. Or use a Tech-2 or Snap-On.

Might just be time for new calipers soon.

Probably but you in all likelihood have to change the knuckle over to an aluminum one. There are so many combinations it made my head spin and quit trying to figure out GMs logic.

Yes, but you still have old bushings that secure the arm to the frame and either need to pay someone or rent the tools to pull the old ball joint and press in the new one. Too much aggravation for me, I went with the whole arm. One kid we know just changed the ball joint and a week later it popped out. Seems it might have been done a few too many times before!

A good alignment tech, at your local dealership or custom truck shop, will ask you how you drive your car, do you like to hit the on-ramps at 40 mph, etc. and take into consideration the kind of tires on your truck. Telling them you drive off-road a lot helps too. Before they even start, they will check your tie rods and ball joints to see if they are within spec and if not, will not do the alignment until those are corrected. Use GM OE only for longest life and durability. The uppers are not rebuildable. Even though the lowers are, might as well get new complete lower arms with new bushings as well. There's a reason why they cost more than twice as much as the Moog CK Series or ACDelco Gold/Professional.

Yes, the number is high in my opinion and may be a sign of a bad ball joint. If you put a dial indicator on it and measure for movement, any more than 1/2 a millimeter is out of spec. One can jounce the bumpers and get the numbers to change some and then print off a report and pull on the next car without doing anything. I learned from Grumpy to insist that they set it to specific numbers and not just in the green.

I would not be happy with that alignment. Too much caster in my opinion. The factory spec does not call for that much, with those tires anyway. What tires are you running? A good tech will optimize the alignment based on the installed tires and how the customer drives. Don't like your camber, might have a ball joint needing replacement on the passenger side. It's going to wear the tires.

That's not true. If the converter did not lock up while towing the fluid temperatures would soar! That is clutch material in the pan. Stop driving the truck lest more damage be done. Remember, all that crap is going through the pump and scoring up the aluminum and eating away at the solenoids. It may take 24+ quarts of fluid to get most of that out and be sure to have a shop flow test the transmission cooler and lines to make sure they're not restricted.

4.10s will help more around town, 3.73s will be better for the highway. I have a lifted Sierra with the same Zone lift on 35s for ten years now. It came with 3.73 gears (NHT) which are the equivalent of 3.42s now with the 35 inch tires. When we get around to it, we're going to regear for 4.10s so that it's gearing will be back to stock with the 35s. She'll get about 13-14 mpg on the highway and averages 10 in the city. It's a 6.2, tuned with a muffler delete.

You really cannot hear it, has to be seen with a scan tool. At what altitude do you live?

Normal slip speed is 10-20 rpms depending on gear and speed. 500 tells us the converter is not locked up, it's slipping.

After about 100K miles of running low octane fuel in the motor it is not uncommon to see broken rings and pistons. You cannot hear knocking and pinging like we used to in the past, it can be seen on a scan tool though.

I was talking to a mechanic tonight about your situation and he said there is literature that comes with the Powerstop brakes that the pads only last 30K miles on average. I don't recall that when I put their pads on a Kia. As for OE pads, my daughter smoked her brakes on 191 south of Jackson, Wyoming. Truck still stops fine without warped rotors 60K+ miles later. This is a 2012 Sierra on 35s with a 6.5 inch lift. Our OE rotors and pads have held up to stopping fourteen thousand pound loads (when trailer brakes failed) without issue but we were not in the mountains. We use a performance meter, a VC2000 to measure acceleration and deceleration. 2 trucks will be coming in for new pads soon and we'll run the VC2000 to verify that they still stop from 60mph to factory specs. I'd be curious to see if your Yukon will stop from 60 mph in less than 130 feet with the new pads and rotors. Let us know if you decide to run the test with an app on your phone.

As the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. There's a reason GM pads are $100 or more per axle. The current GM OE rotors are made by Akebono and are of good quality too, very corrosion resistant. Rear pads on my 2013 Sierra went 88,136 miles and the fronts should be due soon.

I do a lot of research on these forums and have not found anything longer lasting or that stops shorter without changing the calipers save for those Hawk pads. Bought the ACDelco Severe Duty kit, front and rear with calipers for our lifted Sierra. Will be putting them on soon. Bought the truck with about 100K on it, 165K now and still haven't touched the OE pads. Replaced factory original rear pads on the 2013 Sierra at 88K miles. First set of rear pads on my Yukon XL went 121K, 70K on 2nd set now and still look about 1/3 life.

What's wrong with the quality of the brakes that came on your truck? GM OE for us or ACDelco Professional Severe Duty Brake Parts.

Some early 2009s had them too. No compatibility issues. How are you going to order one? I've only found them on LKQ searches and bought two.