swathdiver

Don't go RC, spend more on a better kit. I've had a zone 6.5 lift on my truck for ten years and still run the stock UCAs.

This ought to do it: Upfitter's Guide - Frame Height Charts - GMT900.pdf

You should have bought a Tech-2 to solve this problem 3 years ago. It would have shown you all the codes, the failure records and allowed you to perform tests before throwing money at the problem. Do you at least have an OBDII adapter and an app on your phone to look at engine codes? Which motor is this?

That is one of the 2 bolts that secures your front differential to the truck. It screws into that bracket right above it which in turn bolts to the frame. The bushings in the bracket above eventually wear out necessitating new brackets. You can see one of the bracket bolts just to the left in that photo. All that dirt from a leaky seal somewhere tells me it's been a while since you changed the front differential fluid! Put your hands flat on the table while I grab my ruler!

Get a bi-directional scan tool on it that can read the BCM codes. It probably is the BCM and a new one or used one will have to be programmed to your truck. Did you keep the flat top pistons from the donor motor?

Most of the fuel lines are a type of plastic now with special connectors at each end.

We've done it on several cars over the years, lasts about a year. I just changed out the old for new and am good for 10 years again.

They can run much longer than that. The shops rarely do, they use the most generic terms like, your trans is shot and need a new one, instead of giving specifics. It could have been something as a faulty electrical connection, a sticky check ball or valve or worse like a busted sun shell. If you are on the SilveradoSierra forum, look up Nick @nicktransmissions and ask him. He's our resident transmission guy and is very helpful. He has a shop in Nevada. What all was needed to swap in the 4L70?

Detroit Axle is dangerous garbage. It does not last and has failed on a few cars and trucks on these forums. The upper control arms are not rebuildable. ACDelco and Moog CK Series are the same, they are a good budget option that will last a few years. GM OE is what came on your car 14 years ago. Buy them again and they will likely last just as long again. There is none better IMO. Don't think you can add disperate parts to your suspension and steering and that it will ride and handle the same, it will not. Pre-Assembled struts are also inferior to GM OE. We replace each and every piece that makes up the strut to maintain the great ride and durability. Use a Branick or clamshell spring compressor and make sure it fits our truck springs, BTDT. What trim level is your Suburban? Does it have air ride shocks and a compressor out back or the plain suspension? I have made a parts list if it will help.

Cool, have you ever taken it to the track to see how fast it is?

I say go for it. I always wanted a GMC Suburban, have thought of removing my Yukon XL emblems for Suburban! Done any mods to the VortecMax? 4L70 trans right? 14-Bolt axle with 3.73s or 4.10s?

I think you had the best shocks available, that were tuned for your particular truck as equipped.

Mitchell and AllDataDIY have subscription based shop manuals with the wiring diagrams, trouble shooting, etc. You can get a one month at AllData. It's my go to always.

I can think of a lot of maybees so it's best to get a mechanic's stethoscope or a long extension and see if you can isolate the sound. Some of my maybes are an exhaust leak and a loud injector.

Probably a leak at or near the tank. Time for a new radiator probably.

A good PDR (Paintless Dent Repair) guy ought to be able to fix that crease.

This was my conclusion as well after comparing the various models 5 and ten years ago.

White smoke, you blew a head gasket.

See you soon after you miss being behind the wheel of one of the General's trucks!

Sign up for the shop manual at ALLDATADIY and follow the troubleshooting guide for the O2 sensor codes. Avoid the temptation to throw parts at the car, gets expensive quick especially when 4 GM sensors are nearly $200. Aftermarket sensors don't play nice with the computer system.

What do the plugs look like? Check ground for coil packs and injectors on that side?

Why not keep the 6.2? It's a much more powerful engine. Yes, you can easily swap as long as they are the same generation. Is your 6.0 an LY5 or L96?

It is time to rebuild or remove AFM from your engine. You have partially collapsed lifters or some other AFM issue. It is SOP to replace the lifter trays (GM OE ONLY) when replacing a lifter and it is SOP to replace the VLOM when doing an AFM repair as it is the solenoids that usually get out of time and damage the lifters. Solenoids get out of time due to extreme age and dirty old oil. Use GM OE parts only, really inexpensive aftermarket parts won't get you down the block. Do the repair right.

That's a new one for me. Dropped my pan for the first time at 185K and learned that I shouldn't have bothered. Unless the converter clutch come apart or something is broken inside the filter ought not get clogged like that. Well, dropping the pan doesn't cost as much as taking it in. You take in, it's as good as done for.

There are hotshot drivers getting 100-120K out of a set of 6 Defenders on their dually trucks. Seen their testimonies in comments section on TireRack and on youtube. Defenders will surprise a man with how well they perform off-road.