swathdiver

Maybe it's an old school failure, the starter solenoid died? You can throw parts at it or put a Tech-2 on it and find out in moments what is wrong.

Tech-2 time Ken. Or in your case you might want an MDI with GDS software so it will work on your 2016 as well. You use this tool to see which modules are still awake and how much power they are drawing. I don't have a GMT800 anymore so I don't know which menu to check that or perform the parasitic draw test. OBDII scan tool only queries the engine module, not the chassis or brake.

https://yourcovers.com/differential-cover-gm-aam.html Match the shape of yours to the appropriate one in the link above. I think those had 9.5 semi-floaters unless it had a manual trans then it would have the 10.5". Diesels got the 11.5" 14-Bolt.

Sell it and buy the right motor as it is more aggravation than it's worth.

I don't know Zack, start running the right oil and see if things work themselves out. The oil you are using is not up to doing the work required to operate the VVT system properly. Changing the oil a time or two ought to get things working right again. I run ACDelco oil in my trucks with great results. We also started using Quaker State full synthetic, which we can buy at Walmart, in one of the trucks to test it out. So far so good. I'll do an oil analysis after the third oil change to compare it to the ACDelco oil. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-Full-Synthetic-5W-30-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/177257743

Awesome! Post up some pics when you can. Let us know the payload capacity on that door jamb sticker if you don't mind. My CCs is 1,805 pounds and it too is an SLT. I'm excited for you! LOL

I run my generator twice a year. About 15 minutes in June when we fuel it up for hurricane season and for about an hour when we put away in November after hurricane season. We keep the jerry cans all fueled up during hurricane season and then one or two small ones in the off season for emergencies. We can pull fuel from the fuel rail with an adapter and hose and use the Tech-2 to command the fuel pump to maximum output and fill up the jerry cans if necessary. The mower, edger, chainsaw, generator and trucks all get fed 93 octane gas. Owner's manuals say it's ok and preferred for the small engines. We use Wavian 20 and 10 liter cans, made in same factory taken over by the Germans in WW2. The flexible spout empties a can in seconds, not days like those Obama spouts.

There it is. That oil is not Dexos rated. I never thought the wrong oils could damage engine components until I became members of these various forums. Those GM standards are to ensure the proper functioning of VVT and AFM. It's not like the old days when oil just helped to shed heat and lubricated bearings. Now it does work too.

Oh, is she an NHT?

Those chrome clad wheels are 20s or 18s? You can put the 17" N88s on there, they're everywhere pretty inexpensively and often in good condition from sitting in a shed since new. Did you pick it up yet? I collect VINs of the 2012 and 2013 6.2s and I have only 5 like yours, assuming it is not an NHT. Been doing it since 2021.

Awesome! 6.2 ECs are rare, always wanted one.

Awesome! Post up some pics when you can. Mine still make me smile every time they are driven, love that motor!

5W30? Regular Mobile One?

What kind of oil are you running? If I was in your shoes, I would sign up for the shop manual at AllDataDIY and following the troubleshooting guide for that code. I would buy a Tech-2 as well if the simple diagnostics didn't work. It would have paid for itself already in your case.

That first one had an 8' bed too. In that particular case, the owner bought the camper based on the base model of his truck, his was fully optioned and was rated for much less and then you have that huge overhang out back which in all three cases did them in. It acted as a massive cantilever probably putting 6-10K pounds of force on the chassis. These trucks were all also over built but folks these days don't believe in less is more anylonger.

12607409 - Part has been discontinued but can be purchased new on Ebay. Double check with your VIN at GMPartsGiant.com.

Go ahead and pretend y'all know more than the engineers who designed the thing.

Sign up for the shop manual for your truck at AllDataDIY. This will give you access to the wiring diagrams. On two of my trucks, a universal adapter is used to insert pins into the connector, one powers the camera all the time, the other with the ignition on. Of course, one can tap into the power for the overhead lights in the headliner as well. Lots of ways to skin that deer. Many decades ago I tapped into the headliner and inadvertently powered my radar detector with only 5 volts instead of 12, no wonder it never ran right! LOL

Well, you ought to get hold of a bi-directional scan tool and pull the internal codes that point the way to the problem. Throwing parts at it is costly and time consuming.

Did you not replace the brake lines Jimbo? They can collapse internally.

A GM body shop will replace the whole bedside skin. Break the spot welds, remove the panel, clean up the interior around the wheel well and weld in a new skin and paint to match.

Twice a year, New Years Day and July 4th. The spares are dropped to the ground to exercise the hoists and the air pressure checked. They usually only need air once a year.

Just inside of the bearing is the ABS reluctor wheel. Did that get damaged too? Do you see the wire that attaches to the sensor on top of the axle tube? Everything ok with that up to the connector near the frame? At least that how it is on my trucks, 2009-2013.

Only on their website when I build trucks.

Put a thin bead of this around the antenna or just a little blob at the hole. Car washes will eventually rub this away so keep that in mind.