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DeepBlue17

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Everything posted by DeepBlue17

  1. DeepBlue17
    I run a 2 piece conversion from Performance Driveline. Great kit and better quality than OEM
  2. DeepBlue17
    True. Definitely have to go to 2 piece conversion.
  3. DeepBlue17
    I'm at 10" in rear static. What crossmember issues?
  4. DeepBlue17
    I can't wait to hear what you think of this. Ordering one soon.
  5. DeepBlue17
    Isn't this one supposed to have the sequential turn signals?
  6. DeepBlue17
    Did you check the switch in the overhead console that controls the lights. There are 3 settings: Off, Door and ON. Sounds like it's in the ON position.
  7. DeepBlue17
    That works.
  8. DeepBlue17
    PM me your info. I'll send you mine.
  9. DeepBlue17
    Yeah. These are 29 inch tires in the front right now. Still have the stock 31 on the back. Doing 24s all the way around so I'm gonna end up clearancing the inner fenders some. I just ordered a 2 piece drive shaft conversion yesterday because I'm rubbing on the cross member on large bumps and I still want to go down another inch in back.
  10. DeepBlue17
    If I go any lower I can't drive it. Already damn near ride the upper inner fender if I have more than one other person in the truck. LOL
  11. DeepBlue17
    I run the 4 inch DJM arms and McGaughys struts set at an additional 2 inches. I don't have an issue with front wheels being pushed back.
  12. DeepBlue17
    I just recently did this upgrade. Bought a used overhead console with homelink built in off eBay for around 50 bucks. Came with everything I needed except it had the sunroof and rear slider switches. So I used my console and swapped the harness parts for the homelink. Then I ordered The correct trim plate for 20 bucks. So at 70 bucks it was definitely worth it.
  13. DeepBlue17
    Nevermind. Noticed the back doors don't have the inner handle led's like the fronts do. Oh well.
  14. DeepBlue17
    Do you know if the LED light for the inside door handle comes on when you unlock the truck? Wouldn't mind having these on at night even while driving. Was thinking if tapped into those wires it would save the time of running wires to the rear doors.
  15. DeepBlue17
    I was not aware of this. I've never encountered one that wasn't resistance based directly from the wheel and then usually converted to data at BCM. But I retired a few years ago so I haven't done one of our body style trucks.
  16. DeepBlue17
    No. As long as all the clockspring and wiring is there you should be good. As there is already some controls in the wheel even without the audio controls there should already be any ground or voltage wires needed. Should only be the output from buttons wire that is missing.
  17. DeepBlue17
    Yes. As long as you have all necessary connections for the steering wheel you will be fine. All of the steering wheel control buttons for audio just use different resistances to ground for function. The ASWC reads these resistances and then outputs the corresponding function to your new headunit. I have done car audio for over 20 years and have done this many times in other vehicles and our trucks are no different.
  18. DeepBlue17
    Most shackles are in one inch increments. You could always remove one of the overload leafs to get the 1/2 inch thickness they are.
  19. DeepBlue17
    Thank you. I did a swap with another forum member.
  20. DeepBlue17
    No problem. Glad I could help.
  21. DeepBlue17
    Easiest way to set the gain is turn it all the way down. Turn your radio up to 3/4 volume and then slowly turn the gain up to the desired output level.
  22. DeepBlue17
    Yeah. Like I said the gain is for matching input voltage. And since you're using a high voltage input from the factory radio. I.e. not low voltage RCAs. It should be almost all the way down. You're still getting the advertised wattage output. You're also then not going to overdrive the inputs causing distortion and premature wear. Trust me if the chime is that loud your gain is way too high.
  23. DeepBlue17
    I would try adjusting the gain down as far as you can that still produces the amount of listening volume at 3/4 or full volume from the head unit. Beyond that you're kind of stuck unless you change out the radio.
  24. DeepBlue17
    Have you tried going in to the settings and turning down the volume on the chime? Also you need to check your gain settings on the amp. You may have them up too high. If you're maxing out speaker volume with your volume knob at half way that is too much. The gain is designed to match input voltage from the source unit. It is not a volume control. Turning down the gain doesn't mean less power. Just means you have to turn the volume up on the radio more to max out which is how it is designed.
  25. DeepBlue17
    Starting a thread for all the people looking to find other members to swap chrome for paint or vice versa. Just put what you have and what you're looking for and your location. Good Luck!
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