wmgeorge64

Well a little math and it looks like 1.3 amps on 115 volts and I assume thats continuous rated so you might get a little more out for a short time. Certainly not enough for a crock pot, your table saw or microwave. I am assuming there is an inverter someplace that could be upgraded to perhaps 500 watts. But your going to draw a lot of 12 vdc amps to do 42 or so and thats not figuring in the loss in the inverter which could add 20%, just guessing.

Got my Range AFM module in and test drove this morning. Did not do the Shudder test at the spot it happened….. But it shifts like a dream. The Crappy 1-2 2-1 shift is gone. It was like driving my old 2006 again. Thanks Guys and Gals for the help!!

You have never ran an engine without an air cleaner? "PCV TO THE RESCUE!!! To save the driveways of America, auto manufacturers came up with POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILLATION or PCV. With this system, a vacuum is drawn on the engine crankcase from the intake manifold or carburetor base. A valve is put in this line which closes under low vacuum. This enables the engine to have no PCV action when starting, or at low vacuum. When the engine runs, air is sucked through the pcv valve, taking the blowby gasses into the intake manifold, where they are burned. To prevent a vacuum from developing in the crankcase, fresh air is admitted through a special filter. This filter was originally the same "filter cap" that the draft tube used. Later engines have the filter on the air cleaner, usually with a tube leading to one valve cover."

Sorry Doug those PVC valves had a hose directly to that air cleaner as I described, how else could they pull a vac on the CC? That valve had a hose that went to the air cleaner so the carb could pull the vacuum. The air entering the CC was through the oil fill cap which had a mesh screen filter open to the atmosphere on the opposite bank of the V8. I worked on many of those setups. The air cleaner is always in a vacuum when the car is running with a carburetor. My first car I purchased in 1958 and it was a 49 Ford flat head six. http://econofix.com/pcv.html for reference.

Anyone remember the first PVC valves? It was a check valve stuck in as I remember on the Ford drivers side valve cover top rubber grommet and the hose was routed directly into the air cleaner housing, before the filter element. So all that stuff was filtered before getting sucked into the Carb intake. When the bottom of the air filter housing got covered with oil or the air filter element got oily you know you had problems. I had overhauled a couple of engines from that era and never noticed a lot of carbon on the intake valves. Maybe the air filter housing and filter element were acting as a catch can?

Is there another one on the market other than the Range? Is there a way to switch from AFM delete to normal mode while driving, other than stopping the truck and pulling it out when its not running? Never mind I had one ordered.

I would never run E85 in my truck but I tried the M5 today and it works great!!

So stupid question of the day, and no I did not read all 31 pages. 2014 Silverado, 5.3 59,900 miles and automatic of course. Will doing away with the AFM in town, help the extremely crappy 1-2 or 2-1 shift?? I swear its getting worse, dealer says, "thats just the way it is" I am assuming I just can turn it off or on as needed?

That is the way my issue started and then got worse to what sounds like road or brake noise at low speed. Its in the dealership right now getting the rear differential repaired or what I do not know until tonight (I hope).

I just used a 1/4 inch machine bolt and nut with some washers and went left to right under the lower part and tightened down. Yes its CCW or Left. Does make it louder at idle.

I was told on my 2006 the flush is all they do at the dealership unless the truck has been used for heavy duty towing then they do the filter also.

I was under mistaken idea that since these trucks have high pressure direct injection fuel systems that engine vacuum was not available?

My question and I may need to start yet another Thread, I have my flapper bolted open per the posts here a while back. Before on the road I was getting kind of a buzzing sound or similar from the rear of the truck. Yes it was engine speed related not road or tire noise. So I know there is an official GM fix which is replacing the entire exhaust, is that fix just a in warranty fix or a recall do anytime fix?

In my friends case, my guess is a bearing with low or no oil flow but he was able to drive and get back home. IF it was mine I would have had the old engine torn down enough to see what it was. Added: BUT his noise was not the same as video. It was a squeal like a bearing without lube.

FYI My friend who lives in FL has either a 2011 or 2012, no warranty and about 120,000 had a squeaking noise in the engine. Both he and I listened and could really not hear the source. He took it to his trusted mechanic who after replacing the belt and checking all, found it was coming from internally inside the engine. $6000 and a new crate engine later the noise was gone. He is happy with the new engine.