KYDMAX

I finished up my winter break project to replace all the factory Bose speakers in my truck. I started with replacing the 5” center console sub with an 8” Kicker L7 in a custom Rodney’s box. That is driven by a JL Audio RD500/1 amp getting signal from a NAV-TV M650-GM most50 bus converter. All the other speakers utilize the factory amp and sound amazing. I have Memphis audio PRX27 speakers in the dash. They are advertised as 4 ohm speakers but actually measure 2.5 ohms where the factory dash speakers are 3.2 ohms. I went with Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9’s rated at 2 ohms for the front doors and Infinity Kappa 62.11i 6.5” speakers rated at 2 ohms for the rear doors. I used roughly 30 square feet of Kilmat to insulate all 4 doors. Sound is waaaaayyyyyyy better than stock Bose speakers! The new speakers are still driven off the factory Bose amp though. I highly suggest using a FH-168 speaker phase detector as I learned the hard way you can’t trust the wiring diagram that was given to me by my local audio shop.

I’ve upgraded all 6 Bose speakers in my truck and wanted to post actual resistance measurements for those looking to do the same. This information was not available when I began my project. These numbers are actual resistance measured at the speaker with test lead resistance zeroed out. I will make another post on which products I used. 2.75” front dash= 3.2 ohms 6X9 front door= 1.7 ohms 6.5” rear door= 3.2 ohms

I also installed the 8" L7 custom box from Rodney's boxes. It is a step up from the Bose but not going to rock your windows. I had originally had the LC2i wired taped from the factory sub output but wasn't very happy with the factory bass roll-off and DSP mutilation so I swapped out the LC2i for a Nav TV M650-GM canbus converter. It is much more expensive but the sound is way better with a distortion free RCA preamp signal.

Why are people complaining about technology that their truck never included in the first place? I mean it’s not really GMs fault your truck can’t instantly charge your phone while it’s in your pocket and do wireless android auto or CarPlay simultaneously. This is literally emerging technology and GM builds vehicles. They don’t make cell phones.

Finally got my 2015 3500HD fully retrofitted. Bought a wireless charging lid from a 2016 model. Had the whole center console removed to tap into 12v power hot all the time. Then had to buy the 13521066 module to swap the old module out. Swap the connector out to plug into the new module. Then ordered the brushed aluminum Yukon Denali trim ring (part number 23208761) and notched it out and the rubber mat below (9 rib old style) to better fit my iPhone X in a Catalyst impact case. I used a small piece of electrical tap placed under the mat where I notched it so the console light doesn’t shine through. Works like factory except for the charging indicator on the info screen because my 2015 doesn’t have that capability. Could I have done the same thing with a 3 coil wireless charger off amazon for $20 and stuffed it under the mat then plug it in the USB port? Sure. But I prefer the oem look and I’m very happy with how it turned out.

Thanks to @pgamboa I ordered one of those connectors from Mouser. I have a 2015 and swapped lids with a 2016 wireless charging lid. Looks like now Ill be retrofitting that lid with a module from a 2018 lid. Does anybody have a good price on acquiring the 13507652 module and the lead time on it?