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  1. I got my VIM module from ebay. It was like $100 and works great.
  2. I bought 2x Odyssey 48-720 batteries for my 2015 Duramax. You can get a 10% of code from their FB page that I believe is still active. I will not purchase any other brand of battery for any of my vehicles. If you want the best, Odyssey is it.
  3. I wouldn't trust any speaker wiring diagrams. I began using one that was given to me by my local audio shop and found it was wrong after testing once I had already put the door trim back on. I HIGHLY suggest buying an FH-168 phase tester and wire it up that way to ensure all of your speakers are phased correctly.
  4. I finished up my winter break project to replace all the factory Bose speakers in my truck. I started with replacing the 5” center console sub with an 8” Kicker L7 in a custom Rodney’s box. That is driven by a JL Audio RD500/1 amp getting signal from a NAV-TV M650-GM most50 bus converter. All the other speakers utilize the factory amp and sound amazing. I have Memphis audio PRX27 speakers in the dash. They are advertised as 4 ohm speakers but actually measure 2.5 ohms where the factory dash speakers are 3.2 ohms. I went with Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9’s rated at 2 ohms for the front doors and Infinity Kappa 62.11i 6.5” speakers rated at 2 ohms for the rear doors. I used roughly 30 square feet of Kilmat to insulate all 4 doors. Sound is waaaaayyyyyyy better than stock Bose speakers! The new speakers are still driven off the factory Bose amp though. I highly suggest using a FH-168 speaker phase detector as I learned the hard way you can’t trust the wiring diagram that was given to me by my local audio shop.
  5. I’ve upgraded all 6 Bose speakers in my truck and wanted to post actual resistance measurements for those looking to do the same. This information was not available when I began my project. These numbers are actual resistance measured at the speaker with test lead resistance zeroed out. I will make another post on which products I used. 2.75” front dash= 3.2 ohms 6X9 front door= 1.7 ohms 6.5” rear door= 3.2 ohms
  6. I also installed the 8" L7 custom box from Rodney's boxes. It is a step up from the Bose but not going to rock your windows. I had originally had the LC2i wired taped from the factory sub output but wasn't very happy with the factory bass roll-off and DSP mutilation so I swapped out the LC2i for a Nav TV M650-GM canbus converter. It is much more expensive but the sound is way better with a distortion free RCA preamp signal.
  7. Thanks for the info! Looks like it will be coming back out this weekend. I will zip tie it in place like you suggested.
  8. I pulled the back seats out of my crew cab to install an amp and replace the factory Bose sub with an 8” kicker. After putting the backs seats back in I found this piece by the back wall where the seats mount. Anybody know where it goes? Hope I don’t have to pull the seats again. Thanks!
  9. Why are people complaining about technology that their truck never included in the first place? I mean it’s not really GMs fault your truck can’t instantly charge your phone while it’s in your pocket and do wireless android auto or CarPlay simultaneously. This is literally emerging technology and GM builds vehicles. They don’t make cell phones.
  10. This radio has the speaker on the mic. But I am running an external speaker that is mounted up under the center console with the CB. It is very easy to hear even over music on the radio.
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