Tim McMullen

Grumpy Bear, thanks for the information.

Grumpy Bear, what type of bypass do you have set up with your K&P filter? Thanks

I have been running a K&P stainless mesh filter for the last two oil changes. I was concerned about the efficiency of the thing so sent an oil sample to Blackstone labs. I told them that I was running a stainless mesh filter and requested specifically that they check for excessive particulates. The test results showed normal. Still not sold on the efficiency of the filter, I will send another sample at the next oil change I use brake clean and then simple green, then hot water and finally air – all applied from the inside of the filter - to clean the filter. I’m retired so the extra time is no big deal and I can see what the filter has trapped with the mesh and the built in magnet. I have read that paper filters - because to the structure of the paper - can pass much larger particles and still be rated at smaller micron ability I have read through numerous strings on oil filters and efficiency down to ten microns but assume that the testing is done on new filters. According to the information on the K&P site, their filters flow a lot of oil so rarely bypass even when cold. My question is that when the filters get loaded or contaminated with water such that the passage of oil becomes more restricted or when the oil is cold, do they bypass more often such that efficiency is reduced? Does anyone know of testing that was done on filters in real world scenarios?

My truck did not have Home link when I bought it but it did have the overhead console. I checked eBay but there were no Home link modules available. I bought one from one of the GM parts suppliers on line. It was plug and play to install and programming was straight forward. However, the thing works any time that I press the buttons. There is no need to have the ignition switch on accessory or full on or to even have the key inserted. Anyone who gains access to the switch can enter the house through the attached garage. Does anyone know of a way to modify the wiring so that the switches operate only when the key is on or is in the accessory position? Thanks

The plastic strips I found are located at the outside rear of the cab between the bed and cab.

I have a 2017 Sierra RCSB. A few weeks ago, I noticed loud wind noise - especially in a cross wind. I did some checking and found that a piece of white plastic - attached vertically to the driver side at the rear of the cab - had come loose. There is on on each side. The plastic was loose at the top and had curled enough – I thought – to make the noise I was still under warranty. I took it to the dealer, they drove the truck at highway speeds but could not hear the noise. I got them to glue the strip back on anyway since it was an obvious defect. The noise went away.

Not sure but I think that the keypad only works on 2017 and up but here’s what I found while getting my keypad installed. I asked the dealer where I bought the truck to get it and program it and asked about total price. Quote was $260. Went to the local Buick dealer and asked – quote was $350. Went to a smaller dealer about 15 miles from home. Total installed cost $176. The service manager at the smaller dealer was not sure how to program the keypad – said that he would get back to me in a couple of days. When he called back, told me that he called corporate about the install. Then said that there was a factory rep who would come to the dealership and program the thing for $42.40 including tax. Cost for keypad itself - $125 plus $7.50 tax To me, it appeared that the first two service managers were pulling the cost for programming out of the air. It doesn’t hurt to shop around for cost of install. Rather than having the thing stuck to the door, I asked for it not to be installed but only programmed. In this way, I could experiment with various locations. Finally put it on the lower left side of the windshield. Works OK in that location.

Try this. https://www.amazon.com/ARIES-3142-09-58-25-Inch-Universal-Protector/dp/B009M0S4U2 I have been using protectors like this for many years to protect my seats after I have been working, walking trails, riding my bicycle or when I need to get parts in the middle of some repair to the house or a vehicle. I slip it over the headrest when I need it or anticipate needing it and remove it when it is not needed. I roll it up and store it behind the seat when not in use (RCSB). I have tried towels but found that they tend to fall off the seat back and wad up behind my back. I even tried sewing button holes (with a sewing machine my wife had) in towels and anchoring them with the headrest bars but they tended to tear out after a few uses. On a hot summer day, I would sweat through a towel before the AC would cool me enough. This protector has worked well for me.